tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77074224693221572022024-03-19T04:16:31.615-07:00Girl Meets Rye Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-13280520403356065232018-11-22T08:38:00.000-08:002019-12-21T14:10:57.108-08:00Triple Ginger Cookies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Triple Ginger Cookies</i></div>
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Hey y'all! So, I wasn't going to do a post, but @pwdcreative requested the recipe for these cookies, so, I have to share. I've been baking these cookies during the holidays over the past few years and they are amazing. They are super chewy, spicy and addictive. Super simple to make (ugh, this is why I never make baci di dama, I love them but they are a pain in the butt). It's Thanksgiving today, and I have loads to do, as you can imagine. I have a couple of doughs fermenting in the fridge, the sidewalks are slick with last night's rain, and I'm about to put on some Bill Evans because, I don't know, he's just so good for cozy, rainy days.<br />
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Here is the recipe. I won't bore you with more blabber. I mean, Instagram has allowed us to streamline our thoughts, yeah? Who even keeps up on their own blogs anymore?? <span style="font-size: large;">🤷🏽♀️</span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">TRIPLE GINGER COOKIES</span></div>
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<br />
Use all organic ingredients when possible.<br />
<br />
1 1/2 sticks butter<br />
1 cup cane sugar<br />
1/4 cup dark molasses<br />
1 large egg<br />
2 1/4 cups flour<br />
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda<br />
1 TB cinnamon<br />
1/4 tsp ground ginger<br />
1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger<br />
1/4 tsp ground cloves<br />
1/4 tsp allspice<br />
a few rasps of fresh nutmeg<br />
pinch salt<br />
150g candied ginger, chopped into small bits<br />
1 cup Turbinado sugar<br />
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Cream together the butter and sugar until fluffy, scraping the sides of the bowl as it whips. Add the egg and beat thoroughly. Coat the inside of your quarter measure with oil, then pour your molasses in. Great. Now get this into the butter mixture (oiling the cup ensures that all of the molasses comes out) and beat.<br />
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In a separate bowl, whisk or sift together the flour, soda, salt and spices. In 3 additions, add it into the butter mixture. I do this by hand to avoid overmixing the dough, which toughens the cookies. When almost all of the flour is incorporated, toss in the chopped ginger and mix to combine.<br />
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Tear off a pice of parchment paper, about 12" long. Plop the dough into the center of it and shape it into a log. Once it's shaped, sprinkle the Turbinado sugar over the log and roll it back and forth to coat. Wrap the log in the parchment. Place on a cookie sheet. Place in fridge for at least an hour. At the last half hour, preheat the ov to 350.<br />
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When the dough is chilled, take it out of the fridge and unwrap. Slice into 1/4" thick slices and place on a cookie sheet lined with Silpat or parchment. They will spread a bit. I think I get 15 cookies per sheet? I can never remember.<br />
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Bake till the edges are just starting to go goldenish. I never time, because suggested times are meaningless when it comes to cookie baking, in my opinion. The tops will start to crackle a bit, and the edges will round nicely like this:<br />
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You have to use your baking prowess for the timing. Go for a little under rather than over. I watch my cookies like a hawk. Light golden is what you want. Anything more than this is too far gone. With these, golden goes out the window because the dough is already so dark. But trust me, you'll know when it's time.<br />
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xo<br />
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<i>(adapted from The View From Great Island)</i><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Always A Little More</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-89578856671770783832018-11-05T12:22:00.001-08:002018-11-05T12:30:48.044-08:00Cacio e Pepe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Cacio e Pepe </i></div>
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I have so much going on so I am going to keep this brief, but I wanted to do a post so that you could add this to your bread arsenal. If I post it on Instagram, it's bound to get lost.<br />
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I'm gearing up for holiday baking season y'all! My boyfriend is moving to a new house in a few weeks and our new neighbors/good friends are cookie monsters, so I'm really looking forward to being in the kitchen loads this year. The new house has a fireplace too, so I anticipate lots of cozy nights around a roaring fire eating sweetie things and celebrating our good fortune. Hooray!<br />
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I've been thinking of this bread for a while. <i>Cacio e pepe </i>is a classic pasta dish from Rome. It translates to 'cheese and pepper', so, you can see why this would be as good in bread as it is in pasta. The pasta recipe is very simple and it's always the same: pecorino, parmesan, olive oil, butter and coarsely ground black pepper. I ate a quarter of the round this morning 😳, and man alive! Is it good! The crust is shattery the first day and tender after. The crumb is tender and savory/spicy. This would be a lovely addition to your holiday table. One note: I grated the cheese for this bread. I usually add cheese in chunks, but I find when I do that it creates large holes, which, as you know, I'm not a fan of. I've discovered that grating the cheese keeps the crumb in tact so you can actually use it for sandwiches (OMG. A prosciutto sandwich on this...), makes it über tender, and flavors the bread more evenly.<br />
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I have loads to accomplish today, not much new to report, so I will leave you with this week's Roman bread.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Cacio e Pepe</span></div>
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THE DAY BEFORE DOUGH DAY<br />
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Make your levain by mixing together the following:<br />
12g 100% dark rye, 100% hydration starter<br />
75g h2o<br />
75g freshly ground organic spelt flour<br />
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Ferment for at least 7 or 8 hours.<br />
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DOUGH DAY<br />
<br />
All of the <i>levain</i><br />
362g h2o<br />
450g BRM or Giusto's artisan flour<br />
50g freshly ground organic spelt flour<br />
65g pecorino cheese, grated<br />
55g parmigiano-reggiano, grated<br />
10g good quality extra virgin olive oil<br />
8g kosher salt<br />
3g coarsely ground black pepper (I toasted whole pepper corns until they began to wiggle around in the pan, then milled them coarsely into the dough)<br />
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flours and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1 hour.<br />
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After the autolyse, squish the salt, pepper and olive oil into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated. Time for the 4-hour bulk fermentation, during which time you will perform 3 series of turns. At the first series of turns, fold in the cheese, trying to keep it in within the dough as much as you can to avoid excessive burning at bake time. Do a couple more series of gentle folds within the bulk fermentation. I usually only do a few series for the first two hours, then leave the dough to do it's thing for the final two. You will know when it's time to stop your turns when the dough really starts to expand. If you fold during the total bulk fermentation, you risk knocking the gasses out of the dough making for a leaden loaf. No bueno.<br />
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for a few minutes.<br />
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After it has rested, shape it into a taut <i>boule</i>, and pop it into a <i>banneton</i> or a bowl lined with a linen that has been dusted with brown rice flour (which is what I do). Get it into the fridge and ferment 18 hours.<br />
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BAKE DAY<br />
<br />
One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker.<br />
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen.<br />
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Snip or score the dough, the slide it into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 475 and bake for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid, nestle the shallow end of the pan holding the bread over the mouth of it to create a buffer between the bread bottom and the hot stone (this prevents burnt bottoms), and turn the oven down to 450 degrees. It will be cognac brown because of the cheese, much more brown than you are used to seeing after steam. During the last half hour of the bake, keep your eye on the loaf, spinning the pan for even baking, and you may even need to lower the temp to 425 for the final few minutes because the cheese makes the crust brown quickly. Take the internal temp to 210 degrees.<br />
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Allow to cool for at least an hour, preferably two, before slicing.<br />
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-23833672981551709312018-10-17T23:33:00.003-07:002018-10-19T14:39:38.258-07:00Making Bread in UFOs<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Dear Reader. LORD! Have I a discovery for you! I've been avoiding using a clay bread maker for, like, ever. I was always under the impression that you can't heat them over 400 or something like that. Well, that doesn't do us a lot of good, we, the bread bad asses with our cast iron implements and renegade ways. Clay is for bowls, not for bread baking. Pshaw on those bakers then!<br />
<br />
Well, <a href="https://www.emersoncreekpottery.com/product-category/bakeware/bake-pans/bread-cloches/">I happened upon a nice one</a> from Emerson Creek Pottery, like a reeeeeeaaaalllly REALLY nice one. And the best thing about it is that it's totally lead free, eco-friendly and locally made (well, United States local). My giant cloche arrived a month ago on my birthday. I remember that much because I was shocked that UPS was working on a holiday. No, I'm not kidding. It took me a minute to realize that the whole universe didn't take the day off for my birthday. When I yanked it out of the box, I was immediately impressed by its weight, this thing has some serious heft, and the fact that it looked like a flying saucer. It is absolutely big enough for our standard loaves, as you can see from the photo above...<br />
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<a href="https://www.emersoncreekpottery.com/#">Emerson Creek Pottery Bread Cloche</a></div>
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And it's so, I don't know, <i>smooth</i>, yeah? With its high dome like an old man in want of youth. The shallow part of it is gorgeous, thick and round with tall sides. I figured if it cracked I could Crazy Glue it back together and use it as a cheese plate. Or a plate to deposit wallet and keys and crap upon entering the house. Or a hub cap, should my life continue down this path of destitution.<br />
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All of that was very fine indeed, alas, all that I had read about clay.... thus, it sat on my table and I would eye it suspiciously when I passed, shoving it back further and further into the corner with the shriveling pomegranate and cobwebby lamp, maybe I even said some mean things to it. But forget about that. This weekend I decided to just do it. F it. If it cracks, SO.WHAT. Life is short. Crack some stuff without apology.<br />
<br />
<i>Onward.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
I set about some dough. For good measure, on bake day, I soaked the contraption for a couple few hours, though I don't know if you need to do that. I lost the pamphlet it came with, and I didn't want to log onto the net to see if that was an appropriate thing to do. I just thought: naked clay, water absorption, instant steam oven, and went with my hunch. I also put another combo cooker in the oven just in case the bald man's flying saucer head exploded or disintegrated.<br />
<br />
What happened next is a clay miracle. Wait, what's better than a miracle? There has to be something. This thing, this flying saucer made the <i>best bread. Ever.</i> The crust was thin and shattery as Christmas ornament glass, the crumb lofty and light and it tasted exquisite. Some of the best tasting bread I've made all year. And, drumroll, the thing did not crack nor turn to ash when I slid it into the oven and preheated it to 500 degrees.<br />
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I'm hooked. I've graduated from bad ass iron pan girl to smooth bald head baker girl and I'm thrilled that I put aside my prejudice and tried something new.<br />
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Never mind the bread that I baked. It was just the standard weekly loaf that we all make. The most important things for you to know are that, as I mentioned, I did soak the thing, and even if it doesn't need it, how in the world can extra steam hurt our bread? I slid it into the cold oven, as we do our combos, and heated it for an hour at 500 degrees. When I overturned the dough onto the hot plate, I did so with several layers of parchment paper, instead of only one layer as per usual, just to safeguard against possible shock of cold dough on the hot plate. I did the steam for 15 at 500, turned the oven down to 475 and steamed for another 15, then took off the dome for the remainder of the bake at 475.<br />
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I must also note that the bottom stayed golden as well. No burning. As you will agree, there is nothing better than a golden bottom to our perfectly baked loaves.<br />
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This thing is about to get some serious mileage. <a href="https://www.emersoncreekpottery.com/product-category/bakeware/bake-pans/bread-cloches/">You can pick up yours here</a>. I think they're around $65. Yay! A fun new bread toy! Lemme know if you get one and what you think of it. If you've ever had any doubts about using clay, banish them. I can't speak for the other brands, but Emerson Creek Pottery is the serious hookup for bread cloches that won't crack at 500 degrees. Their website says 425 is the max, but losing the pamphlet/not going to their website to look up how to operate this contraption were the best moments of laziness and disorganization I've ever had.<br />
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Here's hoping for many more cosmic bakes with my new baker <span style="font-size: x-large;">🛸</span>. I couldn't be more thrilled! (p.s., I've eaten a half a bar of chocolate writing this post. Note to self: write more blog posts).<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;">THE X-FILES</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-78125319345207487782018-10-02T18:47:00.001-07:002018-10-05T11:25:51.488-07:0012 grams<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>12g bread</i></div>
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Hey everyone. So, first I want to say thank you to all of the people who took the time to send me sweet notes of sympathy. Losing my baby girl has been the single hardest thing I have ever had to endure (and I have endured plenty). Thumbelina was my partner for 16.5 years, and losing her has changed my life profoundly. Rather than simply feel shattered for her loss, I've gone inward to look at our time together and extend my absolute gratitude to her for being a teacher, a guide, a best friend and the love of my life. It has been an honor to be her custodian, and frankly, now that she's no longer here, I wonder if, rather, she has been mine. I have needed her as much as she has needed me, make no mistake. She was a beautiful ray of light, my little bean, and I wish for one more day, just one more, to tell her what she has meant to me, because 16.5 years just didn't seem like enough time.<br />
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These days I'm a zombie half the time. I went to the farmer's market Sunday and I swear I couldn't tell the difference between a zucchini and a cucumber, my mind was so occupied with thoughts of Thumbelina. I have been keeping myself busy with my clothing line, which has helped keep me from descending into total despair. A few days ago, I decided to bake bread. This is where you come in, dear reader, and in a moment you will see why I needed to share this post <i>tout de suite</i>.<br />
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How many of you, in a slumber, have gone to mix up your <i>levain</i>, only to realize that you've actually mixed up the dough instead with your 12g nugget of starter? Show of hands. I can't lie. I have done this on more than one occasion, and in the past, I have just scraped the dough mistake into the trash. But this time I decided to see what would happen if I just went ahead. Let me clarify: on <i>levain</i> day, I plopped 12g of starter into my bowl, with 360g of water and 500g of flour (50g of spelt + 450g BRM all purpose). As soon as I started squishing up the mass, I caught myself. Seriously, Francis-Olive!? Wake up girl! I was about to toss it in the bin and just mix up a batch of <i>levain</i>, but instead, I decided to let it ride. Why not? I just lost my best friend. I'm floating on fumes, what have I to lose? A few grams of flour and smidge of time?<br />
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Here's what happened next: bread. Honest to god, BREAD, and a damn fine loaf at that. This loaf, from 12g of starter. That brings me to the power of your starter. Love it well, friends, I know you do. This loaf is a testament that it can do amazing things if you love it and take care of it.<br />
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Here's what I did:<br />
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I erroneously mixed up 12g of starter with the flour and water as mentioned. I let the dough go for 7 hours, room temp, untouched. After 7 hours, I added my salt -- oh, and here's what it looked like before I added the salt (10g):<br />
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As you can see, this showed serious promise. I thought, with a very big smile, a rare sight these days, <i>I must forge on!</i><br />
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Then I did a 5 hour bulk with turns, lets say, every half hour for the first 3 hours, and refrigerated for the last hour and a half or so because it was warm here.<br />
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Man alive. Bread. From a bit of starter the size of a brazil nut. Incidentally, the final fermentation was 18 hours, and the bake as usual, 500 deg. lidded for 15, 475 deg. lidded for 15, and without the lid for the final 30, also at 475 deg. This cuts out 7 or 8 hours of <i>levain</i> time, and makes a mild loaf with a shattery crust. I actually baked two loaves so we could do a side-by-side taste test, the second loaf I did up the usual way with a proper <i>levain</i> and the same weights of flour and water as our 12g bread. The proof, we all know, is in the flavor and texture, and honestly, we could not tell the difference between the two, and my BF actually said he liked the 12g best. Both had super tender crumbs, shattery crust and gorgeous flavor. Neither sour. And no one would ever be the wiser if I presented them with this 12g loaf.<br />
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I have to admit, Thumbelina ate half of the bread I've baked this past 9 years, probably more. I never bought store-bought dog treats. Ever. She got bread and peanut butter or just plain bread for her snacks, and she loved it. Feeding her was a joy. The bread would come out of the oven, I would slice it, you know, the sound of that first crunchy slice, and she would come charging from the deepest slumber and stand at my knee in satisfied anticipation. She always got the first slice. Always. A huge slice. The best slice. The heel. And she would go tearing off with it, devouring it in moments. In less than an hour, she and I would have absolutely gone through half the loaf. These are memories of her. My Thumbelina Bean. My precious girl who had cancer for 8 long years and never knew a moment of pain despite. She died in my arms naturally, and she rests on a gorgeous ranch in Santa Barbara with wonderful friends and their dogs and horses and chickens running amok. She lived in heaven on earth here with me, and she is living the dream of all dog dreams for the rest of her wiggly little eternity. I miss her so. I love her more than I could ever describe. Make this bread. She made this accident happen. If I had not been so tired, so overwhelmed by grief for losing her, I would not have this to share.<br />
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Be well, friends, and love those in your life more than you think you can bear. I hope you have the same happy accidents with your 12g breads.<br />
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xo<br />
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<i>To the staff of life</i>, and to Thumbelina Bean, who made mine a life worth living for as long as she could.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">THE OUTTAKES</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-31541125568813371982018-04-25T17:01:00.001-07:002018-06-09T14:34:44.023-07:00Yin and Yang<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Yin & Yang</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Y'all. This post is more of an update than anything. I know you all come to the net to look for new breads to make (Yin & Yang recipe below, and OMG, it's simple, but it's AMAZING), but also as a means of connectivity. None of us know each other. In the internet age, one has to wonder how much of one's own self we really know. We get lost in putting up this persona, giving the world what we think it wants and in this, we lose ourselves. This is what I've been contemplating for a while, and I've come to this: the net can be used to hone our creative selves, or it can suck us into a meaningless abyss. S'up to you to decide where you want to be.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I stopped posting so long ago because I felt the pressure of having to produce. For whom? That's the thing, and that's what my hiatus brought me to. We don't have to do anything for anyone at all. Ever. Well, except if you have kids, right, then you have to take care of them. I say this with certainty because I was one of those kids who was not taken care of by her parents, and it sucked (I doubt if you are baking bread that you would be the kind of person who would neglect your own kids, but the insight might be worthwhile nonetheless). Barring parental responsibility, we don't need to post daily or weekly to appease anyone at all. Our exchanges are little gifts to one another: my posts to you, your comments and viewership in exchange. It's very Buddhist, that. Non-attachment. No expectations. Finding joy in being without desire. There should be zero expectation, right, if you are doing something out of kindness, then the kindness extends beyond unreasonable expectation. This is what I have had to remind myself of because </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">I've been busy and I don't have so much time to post regularly. If I'm not careful, I'm at risk of feeling guilty, or that I'm letting you all down.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's what. I'm in two schools pursing two completely separate educations. I am going to school full time for fashion design, and also full time to get my Classical Pilates certification. When I say that this is difficult, it's an understatement. My day begins at 2:50 a.m. and I go to bed around 10 to achieve all that I need to in order to realize both of these passions (my father said that I always did things the hard way). Pilates is the single most challenging thing that I have ever experienced in my life, fashion design demands more still. I have had to cram 5 levels of classical Pilates training into my body in 8 months, training to that level takes people YEARS to achieve. Fashion design is full time. The school that I'm going to is a 'fast track' school, which means that we cram 4 years of college into 2 years. I was not going to return to school for fashion, but my favorite instructor, Mr. N., is teaching draping, and he is, hands down, the single most inspirational educator that I've had the privilege to learn from. <u>I could not miss this class</u>, though by all rights I should not be doing fashion at all, what with Pilates and the demands of it. Short story: I. Am. Busy. </span>I operate on 4-5 hours of sleep a night. <span style="font-family: inherit;">So, I apologize if my posts seem spotty. Not that I need to explain myself, but I want to, because you, dear reader, though I don't know you, are important to me. Humanity is important to me. Sharing simple things that I have learned, things that have made my life sweeter (baking bread), is important to me. If I can help relieve you of any tedium (and bad bread days are so tedious, I know this well), then I am happy to be here for you. Being open and kind and connected is important to me.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmO05tQ6sYwQgxp-eyDpfFyVBgzcLwbpRjrQKp6BnMlNm_SP4hZFVxYzEWEzvU4T5qpmuGtyNX5d4LcEI5htx1a2JZUN7C1qAThB-JLRCHQDfjqM4zfWMDgUqx7Pf3-xNWTaySMyADfBQ/s1600/IMG_3305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmO05tQ6sYwQgxp-eyDpfFyVBgzcLwbpRjrQKp6BnMlNm_SP4hZFVxYzEWEzvU4T5qpmuGtyNX5d4LcEI5htx1a2JZUN7C1qAThB-JLRCHQDfjqM4zfWMDgUqx7Pf3-xNWTaySMyADfBQ/s1600/IMG_3305.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Bread is a sanctuary that during busy times, I have to fight for. For instance, today I had to bake Deanna's bread, go to draping class for 5 hours, go to pilates at 4am, do homework, walk the dog, clean the kitchen (forget about the laundry today, please, let there be one more clean shirt to wear tomorrow), run some errands, put oil in my car, dash out to buy thread... To write a post in order to keep an audience is, well, overwhelming. I bake weekly, but I don't alway have time to share what I've done. And now there are things that I want to share, but because I am putting new recipes into a book, I can't, and it seems as though my bread life is </span>tenuous if you check my blog. Crickets here, I know<span style="font-family: inherit;">. But t</span>here<span style="font-family: inherit;"> is a reason why things have been so quiet on my end, and now you know.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">So I say this to you, dear reader, the ones who have my back, the ones who returned after my long break, the ones who don't 'unfollow me' because I haven't thrown up visual evidence of my baking life on Instagram this week, those who privately email me and ask me for help or let me know how much my blog means to them: this is for you. The bread book that I'm writing (on top of all the aforementioned) is for you. You are the die-hards that make me keep pushing on. You are the ones who make me realize that what I write about is important, even if only for a small audience. If I can touch only a few of you, David, Daniel, Alex, Argh128, Matt, Michalis, Alexandra, Joe B. Jr., Maurizio, and the 225 'followers' on my Instagram page, this blog is for you, and a small audience is fine by me. In an era of rapid expansion and increase, I am happy to keep my circle small and intimate, connected and <i>real</i>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I wanted to post today to tell you that I'm busy for a reason. I've never had a chance to do something just for me. My whole life has been given over to others. I won't go into detail, but I will say this, what is left of my precious life is my own. My time is my own. My interests will be pursued. I have found love and light, purpose and peace. I have fought hard and won a battle that damn near took my life. But I am here at the page when I can be, and I am happy for it. Baking and sharing </span>with you is so special and I love it beyond reason. This blog is one of my passions, and I have loved it for coming up on 9 years<span style="font-family: inherit;">. I thank those of you who are, like me, living for connectivity and significance when the world demands that we give ourselves over to externalities that prevent us from living viscerally, intentionally, and authentically.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here is your yin & yang bread. A simple one, but one that is feeding my good friend Deanna who has given me a little treasure that will change my life. Thank you </span>sister. And thank you dear reader, for meeting me back at the page no matter how seldom, for supporting me and being my ear. If it was not for the little thank you notes for posting silly things like digestive biscuits (Alex!) and humble loaves, I would have no presence on the net at all.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">xo</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #990000; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">YIN & YANG</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iuHv3Lk6ktcoZqyNIYJWl_7FO66ok8ZPeMCUe4NwSjzyT58wq2U8r8jjvRgdYZgAhtbtkBgB7iv2XtTF5QKaDRdr-9x0tjAua4lGlr7SrHBmTiZfXbZmKg7AOFxtqfgFT0HObOuCL_Q/s1600/IMG_3218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iuHv3Lk6ktcoZqyNIYJWl_7FO66ok8ZPeMCUe4NwSjzyT58wq2U8r8jjvRgdYZgAhtbtkBgB7iv2XtTF5QKaDRdr-9x0tjAua4lGlr7SrHBmTiZfXbZmKg7AOFxtqfgFT0HObOuCL_Q/s1600/IMG_3218.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;">This formula makes one loaf</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">MAKE YOUR LEVAIN</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />3 or 4 days before you make your <i>levain</i>, kick it into high-gear by feeding it 2x a day. On <i>levain</i> day, you will need:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">12g 100% hydration dark rye starter (I mill my own flour for this, but you don't have to)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">75g freshly milled rye flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">75g h2o</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Mix the <i>levain</i> ingredients together until you reach a paste. Mine fermented for 8 hours.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61E3wAoL9jVCI5pAgpp-fYKFpEcaTm6oVtqhsUj6okRin6Wf3e-wDdFnJ1I1LAcdcqwGeVkxJDyXw3fwhRZxNA7ffGe-fKUlafPbmCLb7DkAxvDnKGIoOP4pRPIyDY2ZzE927zrvl6cY/s1600/IMG_3294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="898" data-original-width="900" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61E3wAoL9jVCI5pAgpp-fYKFpEcaTm6oVtqhsUj6okRin6Wf3e-wDdFnJ1I1LAcdcqwGeVkxJDyXw3fwhRZxNA7ffGe-fKUlafPbmCLb7DkAxvDnKGIoOP4pRPIyDY2ZzE927zrvl6cY/s640/IMG_3294.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>levain, fully realized</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">DOUGH DAY</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You will need:<br /><br />400g h2o</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">400g Giusto's Artisan flour (BRM artisan/all purpose or even KA bread/all purpose are fine stand ins)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">100g dark rye flour (again, I mill my own, but you don't have to)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">10g kosher salt, I used Diamond</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">All of the <i>levain</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">70g toasted hulled white sesame seeds</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">25g black sesame seeds</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">15g toasted </span>sesame<span style="font-family: inherit;"> seed oil</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">For the linen:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">lots of black sesame seeds for coating the yin half of the loaf</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">lots of brown (unhulled white) sesame seeds for coating the yang half of the loaf</span></div>
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When your <i>levain</i> is properly fermented, mix together the <i>levain</i> the flours and the h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1 hour 30 minutes</div>
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After the autolyse, the dough should have expanded a bit. Squish the salt and oil into the dough until it's fully incorporated, then fold in the 70g toasted white sesame seeds and 25g black sesame seeds. Work the dough into a smooth mass. Now it's time for the 3.5-hour bulk fermentation.</div>
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Every half hour, perform a series of turns, taking care not to deflate the dough as you near the end of bulk. You will likely stop your turns somewhere around 2 hours into the bulk. For the remaining bulk, leave it untouched. If it's super warm where you are, feel free to pop it in the fridge for the last hour of bulk to slow the fermentation. </div>
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When bulk fermentation is accomplished, turn the dough out onto a workspace dusted with brown rice flour, and shape into a loose round. Let it rest. Mine rested for 10 minutes. </div>
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During the bench, spread out a thick layer of raw sesame seeds, black and white, to form a yin and yang pattern on your linen (see picture below).</div>
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After the bench, shape the dough into a taut <i>boule.</i> and carefully place it onto the yin/yang decorated linen. Fold up the sides carefully and pop into a bowl <i>seam-side up.</i></div>
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Pop in the fridge and ferment. Mine fermented for 20 hours</div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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Preheat the oven to 500 with a dutch oven and baking stone inside.</div>
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Unearth the dough by placing a sheet of parchment over the mouth of the dough bowl, then place a peel over this and quickly invert the bowl so that the dough ends up sitting on the paper and the peel, seam side down.</div>
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Slash the dough at the perimeter of the <i>boule, </i>taking care so that you don't mar the yin & yang sesame pattern, then slide it into the shallow half of the hot dutchie. Yes. A crap load of sesame seeds will come pouring out of the bowl. Try to collect as many as you can and put them in a bowl. Eat them. I do. they are high in calcium.<br />
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Cover with the fat half, slide it into the oven, and steam for 15 minutes at this temp, then turn the oven down to 450 and steam for another 15 minutes.</div>
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After the steam, remove the fat end of the dutchie, then stack the pan over its mouth to create a buffer between the hot stone and the bread. This will help keep the bottom of your bread from blackening.</div>
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Toggle the oven between 425 an 450 until the <i>boule</i> is baked to desired darkness, or between 210-220 degrees.</div>
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Cool on a wire rack for at least an hour before slicing.<br />
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Eat any excess sesame seeds that slide off the loaf after the bake. They're amazing.</div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">Pictorial Evidence of Real Time Things</span></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
<i>toasted</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
<i>yin and yang on linen</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
20<i> hour final fermentation</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;"> </span></span><i style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px;">on the </i><span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;"><i>parchment</i></span></span><i style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px;">, ready for the bake</i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
<i>a successful steam</i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
<i>will ya look at that crumb?</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham; font-size: 17.600000381469727px; text-align: center;">
<i>yin/yang/balance/love/light/authenticity/wholeness</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-5358211005929046432018-03-26T08:43:00.001-07:002018-04-01T06:33:55.054-07:00Sidebar Sunday: Digestive Biscuits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Digestive Biscuits</i></div>
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Wait. Are you like me? Sunday rolls around, you tumble out of bed and twist the oven knob to some middling temp, 325? 360? you don't know what you're baking yet, but you know you're baking <i>something.</i> It is Sunday after all. And it's a chilly one too. All the better.<br />
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I have been dying, DYING to make digestive biscuits. You know what they are? Scotch things, wholemeal and <i>just</i> sweet enough. Thought to aid in digestion because of the baking soda, which, oddly, this recipe has none of. Nevertheless, they taste exactly as you would imagine: wheaty, nutty, simple and amazing, if you like that sort of thing. Here's what, sweet eaters fall into two camps, the gooey sticky lovers, and the slightly sweet and simple fans. I fall into the second. Caramel and frosty things are not my cup of tea. Things like that magic cake that was running wild for a while? Yeah, no. Too sweet and rich and makes my teeth hurt just thinking about it. I should clarify, this does not include ganache, which is not really frosting at all, rather, spreadable truffles and should be its own food group.<br />
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Here is the recipe for these wheaten things. They come together in 5 minutes and bake in 15. Unlikely that they will aid in digestion but tasty nonetheless. This is one for second camp folks. Feel free to dip them in ganache.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">Digestive Biscuits</span></div>
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100g oats, coarsely ground (I ground rolled oats with a coarse setting on my Komo, but you can blitz them in a food processor)<br />
100g whole wheat flour<br />
105g unsalted butter, softened and cut into cubes<br />
50g coconut sugar<br />
1 - 2 TB milk (I used homemade almond milk, worked a treat)<br />
1 tsp baking powder<br />
1/4 tsp salt<br />
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Preheat the ov to 350. Whisk together the flours, sugar, b. powder and salt, then work the butter into the flour mixture by pinching and rubbing between your fingers till you arrive at a crumbly mass. Add the milk and incorporate into the dough <i>just</i> until it comes together, and only use as much milk as you need to pull it all together. Don't overwork. You don't want tough digestive biscuits.<br />
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Wrap the dough in plastic and stow it in the fridge for 20 minutes. After the 20, spread wholemeal flour on the counter and roll out the dough to about 3/16" thickness.<br />
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Using a 2 1/2" round cutter, cut out rounds and lay them onto a sheet pan that you've lined with either a Silpat sheet or a piece of parchment paper. They don't spread much. You can get 15-20 on a sheet pan.<br />
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Bake for about 15 minutes or until golden. You'll only get 2 sheet pans out of this recipe. I think I got like 33, but I was eating them as I was laying them out too cool and may have lost count. Plus I rolled mine too thinly.<br />
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You can pull together the scraps, refrigerate and re-roll them once. After the second rolling, you can bake up the scraps for nibbling as you putz about the kitchen this lovely, lazy Sunday.<br />
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Happy Sunday y'all!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> pinch, pinch, pinch till crumbly</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> just pulled together</i></div>
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<i> roll, not too thinly, the thickness is a cross between a shortbread cookie and a cracker. I feel mine could have been a wee bit thicker...</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOgITxzvZifII0rQrJcCG4jQLZoKEid2mRVKmOcTRb0XOr5fSDWBPqcEBTgLX6cWFzX2UDP1lBZf5nZ8ls-PB2dKnQpXqueAwakrNgDagLTUqyWCvCBOHy8LH61E8U_1mAeU_oU5fRn8/s1600/IMG_2719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOgITxzvZifII0rQrJcCG4jQLZoKEid2mRVKmOcTRb0XOr5fSDWBPqcEBTgLX6cWFzX2UDP1lBZf5nZ8ls-PB2dKnQpXqueAwakrNgDagLTUqyWCvCBOHy8LH61E8U_1mAeU_oU5fRn8/s640/IMG_2719.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>they really dont spread much at all. I could easily have added another row in here</i></div>
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<i>Adapted from Little Loaf Blog.</i></div>
Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-71073959995691124362018-03-18T15:45:00.000-07:002018-03-26T13:52:26.511-07:00Onion and Earth<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Onion and Earth</i></div>
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I think bread-baking is a sign of intelligence, inherent magical abilities, and a deep-rooted love of humanity. Think about it, you first have to bring something inert to life, then you have to sustain it for, like, ever, then you use this new life to feed people you love/don't love/know/may not know, right? I don't know about you, but I bake bread for anyone who shows any interest in what I do.<br />
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Random person whom I may or may not know: <i>OMG, I LOVE bread!</i><br />
Me: <i>I'll make you a loaf, are you allergic to nuts/how do you feel about olives?</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Any opportunity to bake bread is, well, an opportunity to bake bread, and one that I rarely pass up. Speaking of not being able to pass up an opportunity to bake bread, this week has been a doozy. 10 loaves baked on top of a really busy school schedule, and by now you know that I've started work writing the bread book so...<br />
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I've been experimenting with some things. Indeed there are predecessors to today's loaf. Ugly things that came out tasting heavenly. There is such a thing as too-high-hydration, you know. It's funny, when people first start baking bread, everyone wants to be the high-hydration badass until they realize that, well, not every dough should be so hydrated that you can pour it into a glass and drink it. In fact, it's downright wearying to have to wrestle with those things. Plus, too much hydration will give you a very flat bread. The finesse, we find, comes from <i>just enough</i> hydration for a particular bread so that it sings its own unique song.<br />
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<i><a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">Onion and Earth made in the new Fourneau Oven</a></i></div>
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I know you've been with me on this journey long enough to know that potato bread is tricky. At first mixup, the dough is hard. Like an egg. Like a football. Wait, do you have an ostrich egg? I do. It's like that. Hard and cream-colored and oval.<br />
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<i>An egg of dough</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
You have to use a cool hand with the hydration at mixup because the potato releases A LOT of water, and if you've added a wee bit more than you should have then you're... well, you know what you are. The hard little egg becomes a soft and lovely dough after autolyse, and your bread is a thing of such remarkable glory. The crumb, oh, the crumb!<br />
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Anyway, a few sloppy loaves this week. Hydration too high. They were insanely delectable, but looked like the elephant man. We ate them with our eyes shut.<br />
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I baked this week's bread in <a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">our new Fourneau</a>, which frankly, I've no idea how I've lived without for so long (Fourneau, why you take so long??)<br />
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My friend Ania calls this loaf 'Indian bread' because there are nigella seeds in it. 'Hey, what's that Indian bread you made, you know, the one with the seeds?' Layers and layers of laughter. It's a thing that I schemed up one afternoon after spying a dirty russet in my fruit bowl on the table. Potato bread is, hands down, my absolute favorite bread (I might say this about all my breads...). I contemplated this potato, baked it up, wondered what I would bring to the blog when I spotted my friend Joe's post wherein he had just baked up a potato chive thing. Joe and I are always on the same baking page, so weird, halfway across the world and we're both baking potatoes unbeknownst. Anyway, I thought, <i>clever Joe</i>, you know, the whole baked potato and chive thing. I began to think of the nostalgic loveliness of baked potato and allium, and I had been wanting to do a caramelized onion bread for a while so... Immediately then the little seeds popped into my head, <i>et voila!</i> the idea for today's bake.<br />
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It's incredible, this bread. The texture is ethereal, the flavor sublime. Nigella seeds are intriguing. The little obsidian things look like sooty sesame seeds but taste of, hold on, onion and earth. I know. Weird, right? But seriously, it's worth seeking them out. And don't cheat and use black sesame seeds for this loaf. It will not be Indian bread. It'll be onion bread with sesame seeds. Here is what my Parisian friend said after having received half of it:<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i> I rarely ate such a good bread (and I'm french). Merci! Très tendre aussi... délicieux!</i> His name is François and he's super duper <i>Français</i>, so he would know since bread-savvy is sort of in his DNA.</span><br />
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For this loaf I used home-milled sprouted spelt for nuttiness, Giusto's flour because it's the bomb, russet potatoes (Joe uses Yukon Gold), a giant yellow onion, and Nigella, the queen of seeds. Please do not be tempted to increase the hydration at dough makeup. It WILL be a hard little egg of a thing, but trust, it will slacken to the right consistency at the finish of autolyse. In fact, the onions will increase the hydration even further, so, this dough ends up pushing hydration to the limits. <a href="http://girlmeetsrye.blogspot.com/2014/04/you-say-potato-i-say-pomme-de-terre.html">Have a look at this post here if you need convincing</a>.<br />
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With warnings in place, and Sunday at our feet, I give you Onion and Earth.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">ONION AND EARTH</span></div>
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<i style="font-family: bentham;">LEVAIN</i><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";"> DAY</span><br />
<br style="font-family: bentham;" />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">12g 100% rye starter</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">75g freshly stoneground sprouted spelt flour</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">75g h2o</span><br />
<br style="font-family: bentham;" />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">Mix all of this up together until you arrive at a medium viscosity paste. Ferment until it gets loose and bubbly, active looking. Mine went for 7 hours</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";"><br /></span>
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<div style="font-family: bentham;">
DOUGH DAY</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
400g Giusto's Artisan Bread Flour</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
100g freshly stoneground sprouted spelt flour</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
300g h2o</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
216g caramelized onions</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
150g russet potato, riced</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
14g nigella seeds, soaked in hot water for about an hour</div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
10g salt</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: bentham;">
About 2.5 hours before dough mixup, bake your potato. It will take about an hour and a half to roast a huge potato, then another 45 minutes to cool and rice. You will need a potato that weighs at least 225g to arrive at the 150g that you need for this loaf. My potato was over 500g, hence the hour and a half.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">When the </span><i style="font-family: bentham;">levain</i><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;"> has successfully fermented, dissolve it in the 300g of water then add the flours and the cooled, riced potato. Squish all of this up. The dough will be quite firm. Resist the temptation to add more water. You will be surprised after autolyse how much water the potatoes release into the dough. You can always increase hydration after autolyse if you think it needs more water. But remember, you will be adding the onions which provide hydration and make the dough a challenge to work with.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">Autolyse this potato egg for 1.5 hours.</span></div>
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After autolyse, you will see how slack the dough has become. Squish the salt and drained nigella seeds into the dough. If your potato was not as watery as mine, now is the time to add some h2o, but do so in small increments, say, 5g - 7g at a time, but again, remember the onion factor. Trust me, it will get more extensible/slack when you start doing your turns, and you might be sorry you added all that h2o.</div>
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BULK FERMENTATION</div>
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<div style="font-family: bentham;">
The remainder of your bulk fermentation should be 3.5 hours (remember, we autolysed for 1.5 hours already, we always want to do 5 hours bulk TOTAL, so, if you do a shorter/longer autolyse, you would adjust the rest of the bulk according to the length of your autolyse).<br />
<br />
A half hour after you add the salt and seeds, perform a series of turns. A half hour after this, do another series. Another half hour later, add your onions using the photos below as guidance. Rather than squishing them into the dough, we fold them in. So, lay a layer of onions over the dough, fold a flap of dough over this layer, then add more onions and repeat this folding and adding until all of the onions have been added to the dough, and you end with a flap of dough so that all of the onions are encased. I think I got mine in there with three layers of onions...<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Please note how slack the dough has gotten during autolyse, from hard little egg to this...</i></div>
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After you've added the onions, let the dough ferment untouched for the remainder of bulk.</div>
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After the bulk, scrape the dough onto a worktable that has been dusted with rice flour. Pull in the sides to make a loose round and bench for 10 minutes.</div>
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After the bench, shape though dough into a <i>batard</i> (lord, I am STILL working on my <i>batard</i> shaping)<i>.</i> The dough will be very soft and you may wonder if this will work at all. It will. Trust.<br />
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Pop the <i>batard</i> into a <i>banneton</i> that has been lined with a linen piece dusty with rice flour. Pop the dough into the fridge and ferment for 17 hours.</div>
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BAKE DAY<br />
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One hour before you plan to bake your bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, this that has been outfitted with your Fourneau oven (including its little door). Make sure that its been situated to one side of the oven because you will be pulling the steamed loaf out of the Fourneau after the steam and baking it out on the stone outside of the oven. (I have found that my wet doughs spread to touch the sides of the Fourneau and will burn if you leave it in there. If you are making doughs with lower hydration/smaller loaves that do not touch the sides of the oven, you may do your entire bake inside the Fourneau).<br />
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Onward.</div>
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When the oven is preheated place a triple layer piece of parchment over the mouth of the <i>banneton </i>(the triple layer will prevent a burned bottom), invert the dough onto a peel, or, if you have the metal tray with the silicone mat that comes with the Fourneau 2.0, invert onto this. Remove the <i>banneton</i> and cloth, score the dough and slide into your Fourneau oven, installing its little door. ** If using the metal tray/silicone mat, you will slide this whole thing into the Fourneau, if you don't have this, slide the dough and all its parchment layers into the oven.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;">Bake for 15 minutes at 500 degrees. After 15 minutes, lower the temp to 425 and bake for 15 more. After this 15, pull the loaf out of the Fourneau oven and slide it onto the stone next to it (if using the metal tray/silicone, slide that out and bake the loaf out on this, same if you are using parchment). Don't worry, the shape has set during steam. The Fourneau has captured it so that it won't spread anymore. IF you have noticed that your bread is NOT touching the sides of the oven at all, then you don't have to pull it out of the Fourneau. It can bake out where it is. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "bentham";"><span style="font-size: 17.600000381469727px;">Slide back into the oven. Potato bread browns quickly, and more so because of the sweet onions, so you may have to drop the oven temp to 400 degrees. </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">Use your shrewd eye.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">Bake for another 30 minutes, or even another 40 minutes to ensure that it's baked through. The internal temp of the dough will be 210-215 degrees. Spin the dough a couple of times while it is baking for even browning. You will get a seriously caramelized crust when all is said and done. Oh man, so good!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">Cool at least 2 hours before slicing.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><i>To the staff of life!</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">THE EARTHY EXTRAS</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-30363099196175575952018-03-14T13:43:00.005-07:002018-03-15T07:39:03.916-07:00Sidebar Sunday: Shortbread (and a wee bit of news)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Kamut Shortbread with a Maldon Sprinkle</i></div>
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Its been a rainy(ish) Los Angeles this past few weeks. And cool. Perfect weather for Desem (hint hint), cocktails in bed, Sarah Vaughan, musing lots, and baking, of course. I crave baking. It's a balm for that what ails me, and an agent that represents the intentional celebration of simple life.<br />
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I have oodles to share with you this week. And yes, I'm falling a little behind. Sidebar Sunday has decidedly turned into Wow-you're-really-late-Wednesday. But I have a good excuse. I was, whilst lying in bed sipping a Negroni, trying to decide if now was the time to share some news. Well, I've decided. Partially because of the whole accountability thing, and also because I just really want to share. You all have become my bread friends. Those of you who write to me and tell me that you've made my bread, or point out errors (there haven't been many of these, snap), or just let me know you've read something I've written, you have my heart and my news is really for you.<br />
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Here goes.<br />
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After years of going back and forth about whether or not I should write a bread book, I've decided yes. Yes I will. So, I began the thing this past month. Setting up the scope of the beast, what I want to include, all the while wondering if you, dear reader, would be interested in such a thing. Then I realized, this isn't about anyone or anything else. This is about me. It's about an achievement that I would like to add to my list of things I have done in my life. If I get 5 books out there into the world, I'm happy with that. For me, there is nothing better than that one message that says 'hey, I tried your bread and it was great'. That makes my day.<br />
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I have a few requirements: the book will be beautiful, it will be manageable in scope, and it will be affordable for anyone who is interested in having something tangible, even though the blogs are enormous and have tons of breads for you to bake. I will be keeping both blogs up, so you never have to worry about that. There will be some things from the blog in the book, but just as many that won't make it to the blog. It will have some simple things, and yes, some more complicated things, but always, ALWAYS with the goal that it be manageable for my reader. If there is anything I loathe it's a complicated bread that takes days and insane math skills, and TABLES, ugh, I hate tables in bread books! And there are always so many tables when tables are present. Why does a bread need 4 tables? Craziness. And PS. Just. No. All we want is bread, right? We want flour and water and maybe like a teensy thing that makes us break a sweat, but if a bread has us rearranging wedding plans, then sorry bread, you are not welcome.<br />
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Onward to our Sidebar Sunday, which is to say some baking thing that doesn't have anything to do with bread (any other bread bakers bake anything besides bread? Or is that a little like asking a knitter if he/she also crochets?).<br />
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Anyway, in this case, the nothing to do with bread is shortbread. Pun absolutely intended.<br />
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If I had one cookie to take on a deserted island, it would be shortbread. Luckily for me shortbread comes in a variety of disguises, which only means I will have no shortage of cookies whilst swinging in my hammock, sipping fresh coconut water straight from the drupe, and looking over the horizon to be sure that no ship comes to my rescue. For instance, today we have one made of Kamut flour (do they have Kamut on deserted islands?) And one skulking about as some magnificent coconut-oat thing. The jury is still out whether I prefer the thin version or the fatty. Though I'm dangerously close to making room for both in my heart. After all, it takes all kinds, doesn't it?<br />
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<i>Coconut-Oat thing</i></div>
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I hope this post finds all of you well. I'm so glad that the handful of you who are still here are, well, still here.<br />
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(Oh, just a heads up, I will be researching where we can get the perfect size banneton to make batards that fit our new Fourneaus. As soon as I find one worthy, I'll let you know).<br />
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xo<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;">KAMUT-CARDAMOM SHORTBREAD WITH A MALDON SPRINKLE</span></b><br />
<i>(Adapted from Food52)</i><br />
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298g sifted Kamut flour (I used BRM organic Kamut and milled myself)<br />
2 sticks unsalted butter, tempered<br />
115g cane sugar (I used organic cane sugar from Trader Joe's)<br />
1 1/2 tsp ground cardamom<br />
1/2 teaspoon rose flower water<br />
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract<br />
1/2 tsp sea salt<br />
Maldon salt for sprinkling.<br />
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Preheat the ov to 325.<br />
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Oil an 11x8" tart tin with a removable bottom. I used Coconut oil, because I hate chipping off a piece of butter from a stick just to grease a pan.<br />
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Whisk together the flour, cardamom and salt in a bowl. Set aside. Beat the butter till pale, then add the sugar and beat till very fluffy. Add the rose flower water and vanilla. Beat a minute more.<br />
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Gently fold the flour into the butter mixture until just combined. Now, using gentle fingertips, press the dough evenly into your awaiting pan. Freeze for 10 minutes. After 10, pull it out of the freezer, cut it into rectangles for easier breaking after its baked (though honestly? Even after doing this, it broke apart randomly, as the cuts had sealed in baking). Sprinkle with the Maldon salt. Pop it back in the freezer for another 20 minutes.<br />
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After the freeze: Bake for about an hour and 5 or 10 minutes.<br />
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Cool before eating. It tastes better cool.<br />
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<i>Where is the scoring? Nowhere. That's where.</i></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><b>COCONUT-OAT SHORTBREAD</b></span><br />
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315g oat flour (I milled Irish steel cut oats in my Komo)<br />
85g ground brown basmati rice flour (I ground rice in my Komo)<br />
171g cane sugar (I used Trader Joe's organic cane sugar)<br />
267g unsalted butter<br />
80g toasted unsweetened coconut<br />
1 tsp pure vanilla extract<br />
1/2 teaspoon of sea salt<br />
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Preheat the ov to 325.<br />
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Oil a 9" cake tin with a removable bottom. I used Coconut oil, for the above mentioned reasons.<br />
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Whisk together the flours coconut and salt in a bowl. Set aside. Beat the butter till pale, then add the sugar and beat till very fluffy. Add the vanilla. Beat a minute more.<br />
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Gently fold the flour/coconut into the butter mixture until just combined. Now, using gentle fingertips, press the dough evenly into your awaiting pan. Freeze for 10 minutes. After 10, pull it out of the freezer, cut it into wedges for easier breaking after its baked. Pop it back in the freezer for another 20 minutes.<br />
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After the freeze: Bake until golden around the edges and set in the center. It will take more than an hour. I can't remember how long it took, but it was like an hour and fifteen minutes? Maybe longer? But check after an hour.<br />
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Cool before eating. It tastes better cool.<br />
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-58891787676516680772018-03-01T20:49:00.002-08:002018-03-02T15:40:14.959-08:00Fourneau Oven & A New Batard<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i><a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">Fourneau</a> Bread Oven, and my very first batard</i></div>
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How long have I been writing this blog. Yeah, yeah, the hiatus. I know. BUT, <i>how long have I been writing this blog and NO batard?</i> Forever long, that's how long. I do have one crazy thing that I tried to call a <i>batard</i> posted somewhere. The name of the post might be 'bread fail', and it might be on my other blog the Tartine Bread Experiment. But today, dear reader, I give you <i>batard</i>, a <i>real batard.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKzmHKSpkGerQRFVhNVDoeWvtBQfEPHKJkm84H48GE3ablAfqydawNva2jbmg4MBstmGDAA_25y4QahjX-zUd7GFNjkkNKEqFhneFfproCQsK7e8yRR8gjjWkvcZguQ6k2IVppkZxJ9TU/s1600/IMG_8936.jpg" /><span id="goog_28317784"></span><span id="goog_28317785"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></div>
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<i>Rosemary-Fontina Batard</i></div>
<i><br /></i>
It's not so much the bread formula that matters here, rather, the shape of the thing and how I got there. Although I am including the formula below. It was a 'throw together' bread, but man did it come out smashingly, so, I'll share it with you (smile emoji).<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">UPDATE: Hey everyone! I have a code for you to use. If you want to purchase the oven, click <a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5"><b>here</b></a> to go to Fourneau's site, and apply this code at checkout <span style="font-family: "helvetica";"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">GMRFOURNEAU15</span> </span></span><span style="color: #cc0000;">for 15% off your order. Woohoo!</span><br />
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OK, so, you all know how hard it is to make a <i>batard</i>. Your best shaping, your best intentions, and the thing puddles in the oven like nobody's business because you just can't get the steam situation worked out. And yo! I have tried it ALL, from lava rocks, to squirt bottles, to ice cubes in a hot pan, to hot wet towels. Every one of these 'methods' ended in horrible failure for me, some of them perilously so. Like, lava rocks? Seriously dangerous! You toss ice water on them and they sputter in your face and burn your eyelids, and to drive the point home, they snuff out the pilot light. Many a time have I reached my naked arm into the back of a 500 degree oven to relight it with images of the thing blowing up in my face, and always, <i>always</i> this ends with burned arms and knuckles and days of blisters and cold showers. Squirt bottles are just silly. Dozens of burned towels with the wadded-up-wet-towel situation, and ice cubes in a hot pan is tantamount to a chemical peel, but without the radiant skin results. And damned if I'm ruining my $300 Staub for a loaf of bread. I love you bread, but puhleeze.<br />
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I have been praying that someone, <i>please</i> dear cast iron gods, someone brilliant make up an oval combo cooker. In the height of a bread revolution, you would think, right? Someone? Anyone?<br />
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Crickets.<br />
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So round it is. Round. Round. ROUND loaves of bread! Again, bread, love ya, but damn I'm bored.<br />
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So one day I'm lying in bed, right, thinking of bread (of course), and in an unprovoked, angry fit I shouted 'someone has got to come up with an oval combo cooker!' I'm not kidding. It was a moment of out of the blue madness. I went online and typed in that very sentence, and what would happen? The sky opened up, that's what happened. The clouds parted, angels came tumbling out of the cosmos and handed me this beautiful cast iron gem:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2MgosZIQ5VyRekM3j04F_UuhS3AlmwQZ60xvSpUpnJWYVSs67iKgtH2lmGrfhPPg1ytiHfSJZuK73ulxujMw16cSpXC-ED4Thp9aiDqk-_o99rlD40v0K8H51l_F4eF2TAoSBvzi8_k/s1600/IMG_8932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2MgosZIQ5VyRekM3j04F_UuhS3AlmwQZ60xvSpUpnJWYVSs67iKgtH2lmGrfhPPg1ytiHfSJZuK73ulxujMw16cSpXC-ED4Thp9aiDqk-_o99rlD40v0K8H51l_F4eF2TAoSBvzi8_k/s1600/IMG_8932.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>Fourneau Bread Oven</i></div>
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OMG. <a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">Fourneau</a>... will you marry me? I am on my knees in love.<br />
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I ordered my little oven (<a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">get yours here</a>), got it Monday, and today, today I pulled out the most beautiful bread I have made in years. It kept the <i>batard</i> shape, as I hoped it would, the crust was sublime, the crumb was as wide open as the sky that this little beauty fell from, and it is as easy to work with as a simple combo cooker. Man alive. I want two. I want two so I can make twin loaves. Dear reader, this thing is the best thing that has happened to my bread life since my Komo mill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhP1qk28VJwf7pgD95nutPS1lMf4ZV7pWFnP1JaCEXTy30mlm7w-8HV1OrVcrtJEnHveHVdcdUeEKguvfAL4lFpjsHZhYdIU7wY0emRZosljJIrsIudTb7BggUFX5NBHDcaWkHs7fX8o/s1600/IMG_9041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhP1qk28VJwf7pgD95nutPS1lMf4ZV7pWFnP1JaCEXTy30mlm7w-8HV1OrVcrtJEnHveHVdcdUeEKguvfAL4lFpjsHZhYdIU7wY0emRZosljJIrsIudTb7BggUFX5NBHDcaWkHs7fX8o/s1600/IMG_9041.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>The Fourneau crumb</i></div>
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I must admit, because I am so used to making <i>les boules</i>, my <i>batard</i> shaping skills are wanting. I did the best that I could, (heaven forbid I should simply open one of my 50 bread books to figure it out) but I promise I'll keep working on it so I can post prettier loaves with mirrored ends. Don't judge.<br />
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But back to my little oven.<br />
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<a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">Who is Fourneau</a><span id="goog_28317795"></span><span id="goog_28317796"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a>? They are a dynamic duo who own Strand Design, a Chicago based company that crafts beautiful things using sustainably sourced and locally manufactured materials. They created Fourneau for us, the serious novices who bake bread, who know bread, and who have been longing for something like this forever. The first loaf I pulled from this contraption came out as perfectly as the <i>batard</i> of my dreams, and I would never have been able to make this without it. No more nights pining away for a $50K professional steam oven just so I can make a <i>batard.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>The Fourneau requires zero learning curve. It works just like the combo cooker, so you can seamlessly transition from round 😴 to <i>batard</i> 🤩 without having to take a quantum physics course first. You just pop it in the oven an hour before you plan to bake, load up your dough, close the little door, and the magic happens. If you don't already have one, you are going to need a genuine <i>batard</i> shaped banneton. No getting around it. It took me an hour to come up with something that would hold my dough properly, and I ended up sacrificing an old oblong tupperware container. Not sexy at all. And I almost took some fingers off slicing the ends of the thing open with an Xacto knife.<br />
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<a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghiYlhV9z0xtO5GkIRVOrQtERFIS_hQIt-RDrxV2V1G8yT3dCuGMsgglB62TbSKv5eWntAFxfQ7GVCha220mztTHUHta0S9ryXpSWSVDDFkQwkfKX93jd5yxLm4VfatfM8i1LgGHVi9nU/s1600/IMG_8953.jpg" /></a></div>
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I have included links Fourneau's beautifully and <a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">simply designed website</a>. I honestly cannot praise this device high enough. I got their 2.0 version, which comes with a plateau baking tray, silicone baking mat, and cast iron handle to keep your bottoms from going dark. But you really need to also get the wooden peel. Because it's bomb/super sexy. If you can, you should grab one before summer (honestly, you will want two, so if it's in your budget...), and please, please write me and tell me you've gotten it, and how your bread comes out. I have a feeling round 😖 combo cookers far and wide are going to be taking forced sabbaticals.<br />
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Here's the formula for my very first real <i>batard.</i> Hooray! My little <a href="http://www.fourneauoven.com/?aff=5">Fourneau</a>!<br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">ROSEMARY-FONTINA BATARD</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5j_YoPVS3UKnwEKcNucoxUitOXK0L2d75WQYCkNfo1Jd9n849jLF06SH9Ni7kLtpuCKZF-q-RgiDy67vuyCi99dBzxQMLgvVokwRM7ToZNlVBD0bCOXLAaxSPgY97xX8Bd4HJxyltWDI/s1600/IMG_9007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5j_YoPVS3UKnwEKcNucoxUitOXK0L2d75WQYCkNfo1Jd9n849jLF06SH9Ni7kLtpuCKZF-q-RgiDy67vuyCi99dBzxQMLgvVokwRM7ToZNlVBD0bCOXLAaxSPgY97xX8Bd4HJxyltWDI/s1600/IMG_9007.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>MAKE YOUR LEVAIN</b></span></div>
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<b>For the <i>levain</i>, you will need</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">75g freshly milled whole </span>wheat<span style="font-family: inherit;"> flour*</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">75g h2o</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">12g 100% hydration, 100% rye starter</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Mix together your </span><i style="font-family: inherit;">levain</i><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ingredients and ferment in a large enough </span><span style="font-family: "bentham";">bowl</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> to hold tomorrow's dough. Mine fermented for 8 hours.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>DOUGH DAY</b></span></div>
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<b>For the dough, you will need</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">All of the <i>levain</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">367g h2o</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">426g <a href="http://giustos.com/home_baker/flours/bread-flours.html">Giusto's Artisan flour</a>*</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">74g freshly milled whole </span><span style="font-family: "bentham";">wheat</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> flour**</span></div>
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10g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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120g fontina cheese (use the real stuff), cubed</div>
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5g whole, fresh rosemary leaves</div>
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*You can use Bob's Red Mill Artisan, King Arthur All Purpose, or whatever bread flour you usually use. But Giusto's is the best. Just sayin'.</div>
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<a href="http://www.greatrivermilling.com/">**I use Great River Milling Co.'s hard red spring wheat berries</a>, but you can totally use whatever whole wheat flour you have on hand. It just won't be as good. Kidding.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">When your <i>levain</i> is properly fermented, add the </span>h2o<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> and flours to the bowl holding it, and</span> mix everything together until you reach a shaggy mass. </div>
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Autolyse for 1 hour 30 minutes. After the autolyse, squish the salt and rosemary into the dough until it's fully incorporated work the dough into a smooth mass. Now it's time for the 3 hour 30 minute bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns every half-hour for the first hour and a half taking care not to deflate the dough. The last of these turns, you will fold in the cheese (photographed below). Leave it be for the final 2 hours.</div>
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Turn the dough out onto a workspace dusted with some freshly milled brown rice flour. Shape into a loose <i>batard</i>. Let it rest on the bench for 10 minutes, then shape into a tight <i>batard</i></div>
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Pop into a <i>batard </i>shaped banneton or some reasonable facsimile thereof, seam side up. Chuck it in the fridge and ferment. Mine went for 21 hours 30 minutes.</div>
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<b>BAKE DAY</b></div>
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Preheat the oven to 500 with a Fourneau oven and baking stone inside.</div>
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Invert the banneton over a peel -- either the plateau baking tray with silicone baking mat, or the wood peel that you've purchased, which fits perfectly into the mouth of the Fourneau oven -- seam side down.</div>
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Slash the dough down its center. Slide it into Fourneau oven. Close the little iron door, and steam for 15 minutes at this temp. Then turn the oven down to 475 and steam for another 15 minutes.</div>
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After the steam, remove the little door from the Fourneau oven and bake out till a thermometer inserted into the center of the <i>batard</i> reads 210 degrees. You will have to toggle the heat between 425 and 450 degrees, depending on how much of your cheese oozed out. The cheese will burn quickly, so, you will have to err on the side of lower temp if you have major ooze.</div>
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Cool on a wire rack for at least two hours before slicing.</div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">DOUGH DAY</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtHpRMshJ8abogSrq-v7CI-2Jhlnah2QlVMHxypYQTN5acYL-rZJeIigHCfI3rK22xIxkoJkNqQwdDArla5v0tWw4xTH092BL0VtNVlUci0XCjksmgjYNI4dDaxaBziNU5xGUu5SC8fU/s1600/IMG_2036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtHpRMshJ8abogSrq-v7CI-2Jhlnah2QlVMHxypYQTN5acYL-rZJeIigHCfI3rK22xIxkoJkNqQwdDArla5v0tWw4xTH092BL0VtNVlUci0XCjksmgjYNI4dDaxaBziNU5xGUu5SC8fU/s1600/IMG_2036.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i> Squish the salt and rosemary into the dough.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhijnJWFnoM3BkjfvIre5CITNlg1Ldty4Cnnr3XJubVsIDF8PmXw2PpK6MMFzeAKXJ2LbzUMdCvGXMowK5a4uXE28dHtJWpeEkyLgDYpWgCjOIaKn6TkEi1KIz8B3JhJlKF8zj1LXpNUI/s1600/IMG_2041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhijnJWFnoM3BkjfvIre5CITNlg1Ldty4Cnnr3XJubVsIDF8PmXw2PpK6MMFzeAKXJ2LbzUMdCvGXMowK5a4uXE28dHtJWpeEkyLgDYpWgCjOIaKn6TkEi1KIz8B3JhJlKF8zj1LXpNUI/s1600/IMG_2041.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0MqYjQEqL7pdtQFG4aDOJfe1Hc3ZKfJEbPNj349D18uwMNr83KiDQF9XeV2s2QLNEH8WJLB9Jn-8j8-NMUiILlm1QfPRBFHR0j3Y9E3kvTaYhoGyQwBh3YPdTGa632y0xao8o_4X8VMo/s1600/IMG_2043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0MqYjQEqL7pdtQFG4aDOJfe1Hc3ZKfJEbPNj349D18uwMNr83KiDQF9XeV2s2QLNEH8WJLB9Jn-8j8-NMUiILlm1QfPRBFHR0j3Y9E3kvTaYhoGyQwBh3YPdTGa632y0xao8o_4X8VMo/s1600/IMG_2043.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm676lcv3FM_OL02X2awoempXo-rjM5wSASFDQlcoTkodXDJB6oQfe_Hy6cEBejZgnScLxwANYFVQzIAT9O_e0Uv6fobZn_eWpyZ6yk0GtfHj4wVQVTtxK8JeYJYIQsbbxxUlNNV_nbCE/s1600/IMG_2044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm676lcv3FM_OL02X2awoempXo-rjM5wSASFDQlcoTkodXDJB6oQfe_Hy6cEBejZgnScLxwANYFVQzIAT9O_e0Uv6fobZn_eWpyZ6yk0GtfHj4wVQVTtxK8JeYJYIQsbbxxUlNNV_nbCE/s1600/IMG_2044.jpg" /></a></div>
<i>Sprinkle a third of the cheese over the dough, fold a flap of dough over that, prinkle with another</i><i> third</i><i>, fold another flap of dough over that, repeat with the last third, and <span style="font-family: "bentham";">encase the last of the cheese in a flap of dough so that it's all concealed within the dough.</span></i><br />
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<span style="font-family: "bentham";"><i>(Feel free to contact me and chastise me about my unresearched batard shaping skills)</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7kXy12GPu_kGNbKOJi8jhirE6kcyidBByVe2FTLQxbGrwPCIqrRVat0swEci9siMqovNnJsCACTjYrsAgtQkpfDEGYejUJzlZ62vxIjJG-VVQQsTjMnYMctMSaar7Mvu2wfqrok0Z-lc/s1600/IMG_2045+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7kXy12GPu_kGNbKOJi8jhirE6kcyidBByVe2FTLQxbGrwPCIqrRVat0swEci9siMqovNnJsCACTjYrsAgtQkpfDEGYejUJzlZ62vxIjJG-VVQQsTjMnYMctMSaar7Mvu2wfqrok0Z-lc/s1600/IMG_2045+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
<i> When the dough has finished its bulk, scrape the dough onto a clean counter.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwJLYp8K2mYyXwUCNtGkcDvbgXFKwcf4aZ8jo2HQhnyWstq6n5R4SJTmZCfuxzCeimmr6jQEVKGtL7fBTSga9VUA_aoKkyYNCSKp4s1Af3G_SLZhw4HNK-xQ7vDAo5WNylpCjM_veW_Fs/s1600/IMG_2046+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwJLYp8K2mYyXwUCNtGkcDvbgXFKwcf4aZ8jo2HQhnyWstq6n5R4SJTmZCfuxzCeimmr6jQEVKGtL7fBTSga9VUA_aoKkyYNCSKp4s1Af3G_SLZhw4HNK-xQ7vDAo5WNylpCjM_veW_Fs/s1600/IMG_2046+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
<i> Fold one third of it over the center third.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfIF7juJVP2p653SEoU-uysw5MjMD5ly-41J9S28kntQvneQbeyn_-SPjCNd6u_sYD9xUtgysXQYjVuMhC-lfQeGcDKWXFws8LI_axrdkJtJb8-LdUbPvudNkRpyol3PYVOHw0ErHJU8/s1600/IMG_2047+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfIF7juJVP2p653SEoU-uysw5MjMD5ly-41J9S28kntQvneQbeyn_-SPjCNd6u_sYD9xUtgysXQYjVuMhC-lfQeGcDKWXFws8LI_axrdkJtJb8-LdUbPvudNkRpyol3PYVOHw0ErHJU8/s1600/IMG_2047+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
<i> Fold the final third over the center of the dough.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_GewFWRY2o_FInfOj8wDGoBtiua9alghnRskUFsdrpCytmIq2CZ0Wg-XXdqnjBOJZ8F6LjUC-zB0EUqZy24WGOgQEmretuyCA945B81ico4T-UjPGFkKwd6Ojk3wp715zXymeyDw5WM/s1600/IMG_2049+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_GewFWRY2o_FInfOj8wDGoBtiua9alghnRskUFsdrpCytmIq2CZ0Wg-XXdqnjBOJZ8F6LjUC-zB0EUqZy24WGOgQEmretuyCA945B81ico4T-UjPGFkKwd6Ojk3wp715zXymeyDw5WM/s1600/IMG_2049+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
<i> Then fold the bottom half of the dough up past the center of the dough.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbw6XSXDKXlVz1oh0yZ2SHo8fwW6SeGsUG6DV7JPG3j5LhpN2HRuRprl4T8ut5OpvHsqgyLeP9MHNRNZa6gpLrlYb1nL4i2jpFfEufKuQwLipaSQ32kQVOXDQ-SnVvGbCa60OiP6fpKRE/s1600/IMG_2050+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbw6XSXDKXlVz1oh0yZ2SHo8fwW6SeGsUG6DV7JPG3j5LhpN2HRuRprl4T8ut5OpvHsqgyLeP9MHNRNZa6gpLrlYb1nL4i2jpFfEufKuQwLipaSQ32kQVOXDQ-SnVvGbCa60OiP6fpKRE/s1600/IMG_2050+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div>
<i> And fold the small flap of dough down over that to make a neat package. Rest for 10 minutes.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXZAak-E5bYu3Le_enhqi0eFQ-lhc9Y7-wUT2Ksn_S8OP7wLr5WN7AJixz25POWu38qbKeXtc4ZQK3274OBkaf295IjJH8ywpGLlYPo77Z_2CcjDGzhhnj69ar_6auodgfTEmkzDDaZo/s1600/IMG_2051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1137" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXZAak-E5bYu3Le_enhqi0eFQ-lhc9Y7-wUT2Ksn_S8OP7wLr5WN7AJixz25POWu38qbKeXtc4ZQK3274OBkaf295IjJH8ywpGLlYPo77Z_2CcjDGzhhnj69ar_6auodgfTEmkzDDaZo/s1600/IMG_2051.jpg" /></a></div>
<i>After the bench, I rolled the dough into an even tighter batard by bringing the long sides over one another. </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivq0d2iUd6yF3LfevOiO8EXQBZHxI_WlenmoLqKVb6B7ADgfEb6Xb1o8UaQjnVq8JpHQHXwH3IuBO-PYSSK94LSphyxpdgFzrcnw7dkke_tWjfavNNYLjnHtKfvCHjQZfyzPgaHuGqheE/s1600/IMG_2052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="988" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivq0d2iUd6yF3LfevOiO8EXQBZHxI_WlenmoLqKVb6B7ADgfEb6Xb1o8UaQjnVq8JpHQHXwH3IuBO-PYSSK94LSphyxpdgFzrcnw7dkke_tWjfavNNYLjnHtKfvCHjQZfyzPgaHuGqheE/s1600/IMG_2052.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>Pop into a well-floured banneton.</i></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">BAKE DAY</span></div>
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<i>Shape and slash the dough.</i></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">THE HEADSHOTS</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com43tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-23032761736044645472018-02-20T17:11:00.000-08:002018-02-28T18:57:39.333-08:00All The Alliums<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>All The Alliums</i></div>
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When your boyfriend says: <i>babe, I think this is my absolute favorite bread. It's so good, even the dog loves it.</i><br />
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The dog.<br />
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Anyway. It's springtime! So, spring onions and green garlic. Let me clarify: it's springtime in L.A. It turns out that we decided not to invite winter to the party of seasons this year. A consensus was taken and we all said <i>NEIN!</i> So, green garlic in February and piles of purple spring onions with bright green tails.<br />
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When this bread bakes, the house fills up with the most luscious, savory, oniony perfume. It's like all the good things in life rolled into an ambrosial aroma.<br />
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I made a bunch of these crazy things. The first two rounds were amazing. Super soft, aromatic crumb and golden crust! But the very center collapsed a bit, and I was after a <i>boule</i>, not a focaccia, silly thing, so I scaled back on the allium a bit and got/maintained lovely oven spring. The first loaves were scattered with some allium strands that I had roasted as the oven was preheating, hence the lovely maintained color.<br />
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<i>Belle of the ball...</i></div>
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I left the second round 'plain', so you could see what it looks like 'unadorned'. Beautiful just the same, but sort of a show stopper when you go the extra mile, don't you think?<br />
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<i>Cindarella before the shoe</i></div>
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The thing about this bread is that it's a little tricky to make, from dough through the bake. DO NOT be tempted to add any more of the sweated allium mixture than what is called for here. It is already on the brink of 'could be too wet', and don't increase hydration of the dough at dough makeup. 325g IS low, yes, but all of the allium makes up for that hydration when you add it later.<br />
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<i>Sweated allium</i></div>
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Also, don't skip the step in lining the bowl with paper towels to absorb some moisture that sweeps out of the dough (you'll see what I mean in the directions). Be mindful during the bake. You really have to toggle the heat when baking up this thing. Be sure that you meet the bake time recommended, and your <i>boule</i> will reach at least, dare I say, 218 degrees. This is a very wet dough, and you need the time and the higher internal temp to ensure that it's cooked through.<br />
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As long as you heed all the weirdy-pants advice, you will be on your way to springtime happiness!<br />
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Oh, and you have to trust me on this, but don't leave off the allium tangle atop the dough. I know it appears burned, but trust me, it tastes like toasty leeks. Kind of like a garlic/onion bagel. I mean, do what you want. You could leave them off and it would be fine. But I like the toasty tangle. We killed these loaves. So good. Soooo, sooo good...<br />
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The texture of today's bread is cloud-soft. It's almost like a focaccia. It's the kind of loaf you would see at a farmer's market. You get one, it's amazing, you dream about next Sunday when you can get another. I am a fan of leeks in bread as witnessed <a href="http://tartine-bread.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-classic.html">here</a> and <a href="http://girlmeetsrye.blogspot.com/2014/05/pie.html">here</a>.<br />
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I know, I know. It sounds flippin' weird, all that allium, and that crazy tangle atop. But MAN ALIVE! is this bread awesome. If you don't believe me, ask my bf's dog, and he'll tell you a thing or two about what's good.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">ALLIUM BREAD</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFndNgPYA2wogpx7O3DeRBw8z1xvnqfDO6fS5P7Fj7BHWUypgXhyphenhyphenellpFkhkODKs1ilTVhjrnf2RXfVdOU1DmePeGce4AxsQMGcOoWsMCR-B1VKoPDihrrFZtORrbT1ca5LnZPaUBzWeE/s1600/IMG_1914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFndNgPYA2wogpx7O3DeRBw8z1xvnqfDO6fS5P7Fj7BHWUypgXhyphenhyphenellpFkhkODKs1ilTVhjrnf2RXfVdOU1DmePeGce4AxsQMGcOoWsMCR-B1VKoPDihrrFZtORrbT1ca5LnZPaUBzWeE/s1600/IMG_1914.jpg" /></a></div>
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* I use <a href="http://www.greatrivermilling.com/">Great River Milling Co</a>. hard red wheat for the whole wheat in this bread, and I feed my starter home milled Great River Milling Co. Rye. See the link below for the wheat that I buy...<br />
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<b>LEVAIN DAY:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Two days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day for two full days. On the third day, build your <i>levain</i>:<br />
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12g 100% dark rye, 100% hydration starter<br />
75g h2o<br />
75g home milled hard red whole wheat flour<br />
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Mine fermented for about 7 hours<br />
<i><br /></i>
<b>DOUGH DAY</b><br />
<br />
All of the <i>levain</i><br />
- 325g h2o<br />
- 425g Giusto's Artisan flour<br />
- 75g home milled hard red whole wheat flour (I use Great River Milling Co. hard red wheat)<br />
- 274g mixed allium, weighed before cooking. Here is my breakdown:<br />
<span style="color: #990000;"> -75g green garlic</span><br />
<span style="color: #990000;"> -74g spring onion</span><br />
<span style="color: #990000;"> -125g leeks</span><br />
- 10g kosher salt<br />
- 9g extra virgin olive oil, I use California Olive Ranch<br />
- A tangle of alliums to spread over your linen (I'm sorry, I didn't weigh what I used...), cut into batons<br />
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flours and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1.5 hours, but you can autolyse for 1 hour with fine results (in this case, though, your remaining bulk fermentation will be 4 hours, as we always want 5 hours for bulk). At this time, slice up your alliums and sweat until very soft. Take it low and slow. Set aside to thoroughly cool. If you haven't done this in time to be cool enough to add to your bread, spread the allium mixture on a plate and pop in the freezer for 10 minutes. This is what I usually do.<br />
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After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated, then fold in the allium mixture. Now begin your 3.5-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns until the dough really starts to expand. You will intuitively know that this is the time to stop your turns. But for this dough, I folded 30 minutes after I added the salt and allium mixture, then 30 minutes later, then 30 minutes after that. I left it alone after that.<br />
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Now let the dough ferment for the remainder of the bulk.<br />
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for about 10 minutes.<br />
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Before you get your dough into its bowl, line it with 4 layers of paper towels to absorb the moisture that will seep from the dough. Set aside. Spread a thin layer of rice flour over your linen cloth, then spread the allium batons over this.<br />
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After the dough has rested, shape it into a taut <i>boule</i>, by pulling in the sides, and pop it onto the awaiting cloth (SMOOTH SIDE UP) that has been dusted with the rice flour and scattered with the allium match sticks. You want it smooth side up because you will not be scoring this loaf. On bake day, the loaf will burst open naturally at the folds.<br />
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Pop it into the bowl that has been lined with paper towels and get it into the fridge. Ferment 18 hours.<br />
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<b>BAKE DAY</b><br />
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker. If you plan to scatter the loaves with more allium strands, now is the time to roast them. Just slice a bit of whatever you have into matchsticks, toss in olive oil and a pinch of salt, spread out on a sheet tray and pop in the oven to roast. Set aside when done...<br />
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen and the paper towels if they have tumbled out.<br />
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Slide the dough into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 475 and steam for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid, n<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham";">estle the pan holding the bread over the mouth of the combo cooker lid. This provides a buffer from the oven floor so you NEVER get burnt bread </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "bentham"; font-size: 17.600000381469727px;">bottoms. L</span>ower the temp to 450 and bake for another 15 minutes. Rotate the pan, and lower the oven to 400, bake for another 18 minutes. Rotate the pan again, turn the oven down to 375 degrees and bake for a final 12 minutes for a total of 1 hour 15 minutes of baking (the last 12 minutes of the bake is the time to scatter the loaves with the allium you roasted earlier if you are using them).<br />
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Take the internal temp to at least 218 degrees. It would not be a mistake to bake for a total of 1 hour 20 minutes to ensure thorough baking. In this case, bake for an additional 5 minutes at 375. Don't worry about burning the bread. At this low temp, it will bake out but won't burn.<br />
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Allow to cool for at least two hours before slicing.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">THE METHOD, IN PHOTO</span><br />
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<i>All the alliums, unembellished</i></div>
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<i>Green garlic</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Sliced allium</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Sweated</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Amalgamated</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Final fermentation SMOOTH SIDE UP, resting on allium bed; </i><br />
<i>notice the paper towel layers beneath the linen...</i></div>
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<i>Proofed</i></div>
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<i>Steamed</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Baked</i></div>
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<i>The crumb</i></div>
<i><br /></i>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">THE VANITY SHOTS</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-56143382676761382722018-02-04T10:56:00.001-08:002018-02-04T11:06:17.134-08:00Sidebar Sundays: Hippie Cookies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hippie Cookies</h3>
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I think we've been over this. I was raised by hippies. Which is the same as saying that I was raised by wolves. You know, I've gone through phases of high-heels and decadent food, but it's just not me. If I want something sweet, it's usually some natural-ish thing like whole grain cookies, scones, or a quick bread. Frosting and gooey things just don't float my boat.<br />
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Which brings me to my uber healthy post.<br />
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So, I made all of these cookies, yeah. Because it was Christmas, and believe it or not, hippies don't have their own eccentric version of it. But we do like to chop down our own trees so we can wear our logger boots with purpose and drink chicory coffee in wet, grassy lots with the noble firs that still have vermin hiding in their boughs when we drag them home and shove organic, edible ornaments on them (maybe these cookies can double as ornaments. I don't know.) My pop used to wander around our plot of land with a green chainsaw, waxing wistful about the virtues of getting back to nature by way of using the ground as a loo.<br />
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So, why the f have I been using only white flour to make our once-a-year cookies? Is what you're asking yourself right now, because you're scrolling around looking at all of these whole grain things, waxing wistful about how to get. more. natural. My mum used to make fig cookies with tree bark and foraged figs. Where she found figs in 1975 Wisconsin, I dare say I do not know. All of our sweets were made with tree bark I think. And treacle. Tree bark treacle pies and all that. Poor Mum. What kind of flour was she using?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQYEdzmuowCFx4jtAGg4sOj7R24qesIoxdpGImTnlU6hYF0acm4s2zsE0Pq3ggumJEJivx8S9FJHm4IUdxnl7rA1bLTUEepYrHVyC72dBc6Z_g0M-_24ecHUWUtxzPAlnmuZCxD9k1arm/s1600/semonlinarye2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #b45f06; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQYEdzmuowCFx4jtAGg4sOj7R24qesIoxdpGImTnlU6hYF0acm4s2zsE0Pq3ggumJEJivx8S9FJHm4IUdxnl7rA1bLTUEepYrHVyC72dBc6Z_g0M-_24ecHUWUtxzPAlnmuZCxD9k1arm/s1600/semonlinarye2.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.0980392) 1px 1px 5px; background-color: white; border: 1px solid rgb(180, 95, 6); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.0980392) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 5px; position: relative;" /></a><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span><br />
Alright then. I used all whole grains for these things, well, except for the rosemary semolina things. I cheated a teensy there. I'm not a purist. The baci here are made with brown rice flour, shout out to <a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2012/11/baci-di-dama-cookies-recipe/" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">David Lebovitz</a> for these, so, yeah, gluten free. The rye cookies I've adapted from Aube over at <a href="http://www.pbs.org/food/kitchen-vignettes/rye-blueberry-cookies/" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">Kitchen Vignettes</a> (I love that woman), who made this amazing little video showing her make the cookies from threshing the rye to eating them. No. Not amazing. Astounding and very, very cool. I've added cardamom and rose water, because they sounded like flavors that would pair well with rye, and boy, was I right. The brown sugar semolina cookies are an adaptation of <a href="http://pastrystudio.blogspot.com/2012/04/brown-sugar-semolina-cookies-with-sea.html" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">Pastry Studio's cookies</a>, hers accented with sea salt. Nice. If you don't know Pastry Studio's blog, you have not seen sunlight nor known happiness nor any sort of love. Seriously. Get over there.<br />
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I am happy to report that every one of them came out sandy/tender and pretty unforgettable. Oh, FYI, I love to bake non-bread things, and I've decided to bring back Sidebar Sundays to share my sweets with you. I have TONS of amazing baking books to cull recipes from, and I am assuming that if you like to bake bread, you probably like to bake other things too, and so, there's that, and here we are. Happy Super Bowl Sunday. Let me know if you try your hand at any of these beauties!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Rye Blueberry Cookies</span></div>
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<i>(adapted from <a href="http://www.pbs.org/food/kitchen-vignettes/rye-blueberry-cookies/" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">Aube's rye cookies </a>at Kitchen Vignettes)</i></div>
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323g dark rye flour<br />
227g cold unsalted butter<br />
173g cane sugar<br />
1 large egg<br />
3g sea salt<br />
90g dried blueberries<br />
3g rose flower water<br />
3g vanilla extract<br />
2g cardamom<br />
38g turbinado sugar for rolling<br />
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Mill your rye berries to make flour. Whisk together this rye flour, cardamom and sea salt. Set aside.<br />
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In another bowl, cream the butter and cane sugar together until fluffy and pale. Add the egg, beating well after this addition. Beat in the extracts. Stir in the blueberries.<br />
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Now, gently fold the rye flour in two additions. Do not overmix. The dough will be quite stiff. It's fine.<br />
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Using sheets of parchment or plastic wrap, roll the dough into two logs, about 2" round, keeping them uniform and tight, pressing out cracks and wonks and wobbles. Be sure to finish with blunt ends. Sprinkle with the Turbinado, pressing the granules gently into the dough. Tie the ends shut and refrigerate for at least 30-45 minutes(I refrigerated for an hour. The point is, you want it to get very cold and very firm. This is what helps the cookies hold their shape when you bake them, along with the 10 minute freeze that you will come upon in a moment. Do not shortchange your cookies by refrigerating for less time. This is a critical step to maintaining the shape of the cookies and the integrity of the texture). Now is the time to preheat the oven. 350 degrees.<br />
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When the logs are frigid, and working with one log at a time, slice into coins about, oh, 1/4" thick or a hair less. Line one or two sheet trays with parchment paper, or Silpat. Shape the cookies into nice rounds and place on sheet trays about an inch apart. They don't spread very much. Pop the sheet tray into the freezer for about 10 minutes, then pull out and slide into the oven once the dough is firm. Bake until only slightly golden, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Cool on the sheet pan for a bit, then transfer to a wire cooling rack.<br />
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You don't have to bake these cookies immediately. The cool thing about all of these cookies is that you can make the dough, and actually just freeze it and slice off what you need when you need it. So, maybe you have a hankering for a couple of cookies. Boom. Whack off some dough, shape and bake. Fresh cookies at a moment's notice.<br />
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<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Brown Sugar Semolina Cookies with Rosemary & Orange Flower Water</span><br />
(<i>Adapted from the <a href="http://pastrystudio.blogspot.com/2012/04/brown-sugar-semolina-cookies-with-sea.html" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">Pastry Studio</a></i>)<br />
<br />
227g cold unsalted butter<br />
110g packed brown sugar<br />
1 egg yolk<br />
150g semolina<br />
101g all purpose flour (I used Bob's Red Mill)<br />
3g pure vanilla extract<br />
3g orange flower water<br />
1/4 teaspoon very finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves, it should be almost a powder<br />
1/4 tsp toasted and ground fennel seeds<br />
1.5g sea salt<br />
38g Turbinado sugar for sprinkling<br />
<br />
Mill your durum wheat finely to make semolina. Whisk together the a/p flour, semolina, fennel, rosemary and sea salt. Set aside.<br />
<br />
In a separate bowl, cream together the butter and sugar till pale and fluffy. Add the egg yolk and beat into the butter mixture till pale. Add the extracts. Beat well.<br />
<br />
In two additions, fold the flour mixture into the butter mixture carefully. do not overmix.<br />
<br />
Turn the dough out onto a piece of parchment or plastic wrap and form into a uniform log with no cracks or bubbles. Sprinkle with Turbinado, pressing it into the dough. Wrap the dough with plastic and refrigerate for at least 30-45 minutes (I refrigerated for an hour. The point is, you want it to get very cold and very firm. This is what helps the cookies hold their shape when you bake them, along with the 10 minute freeze that you will come upon in a moment. Do not shortchange your cookies by refrigerating for less time. This is a critical step to maintaining the shape of the cookies, and the integrity of the texture). Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.<br />
<br />
Line a sheet pan with Silpat or parchment. Slice the cold log into 1/4" coins and place on the lined sheet tray about 1" apart. Reform the coins so they are round with no edges. Pop in the freezer for 10 minutes, then pull out and bake until golden, rotating pan halfway through baking.<br />
<br />
Cool for a bit in the pan before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Baci Di Dama</span><br />
(<i>Happily borrowed from <a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2012/11/baci-di-dama-cookies-recipe/" style="color: #b45f06; text-decoration: none;">David Lebovitz</a>; the only changes I made here were the additions of vanilla and a pinch more salt</i>)<br />
<br />
140g hazelnuts, toasted<br />
140g brown rice flour<br />
100g cold unsalted butter<br />
100g cane sugar<br />
6g pure vanilla extract<br />
1.5g salt<br />
55g bittersweet chocolate, chopped<br />
<br />
Mill your brown rice. Set aside.<br />
<br />
In a food processor, pulse the nuts until very fine. It should look like coarse polenta.<br />
<br />
Whisk together the hazelnut meal, the brown rice flour and the salt. Set aside.<br />
<br />
Cream together the sugar and butter till pale and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla extract.<br />
<br />
Fold the brown rice mixture into the butter in two turns until just combined. Now, I know this is hard, but form this into a ball. Lay out three sheets of plastic wrap, divide the dough into three equal portions over the lain parchment/plastic and form each one into three small logs about 1" round. It will seem sort of impossible, because the dough is crumbly, but do the best you can, pressing and squishing and coaxing and patting with your fingers. It's this texture that will result in a very tender cookie. All of your labor will be rewarded later.<br />
<br />
Refrigerate for at least 30-45 minutes until firm (I refrigerated for an hour. The point is, you want it to get very cold and very firm. This is what helps the cookies hold their shape when you bake them, along with the 10 minute freeze that you will come upon in a moment. Do not shortchange your cookies by refrigerating for less time. This is a critical step to maintaining the shape of the cookies, and the integrity of the texture). Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a sheet pan with Silpat or parchment.<br />
<br />
When the dough is firm, working with one log at a time, slice into small pieces and form into balls a little larger than a marble. Keep the pieces uniform. Line up on the prepared sheet pan spaced about 1" apart. They do not spread much. Freeze the dough marbles for 10 minutes, then pop in the oven and bake till only slightly brown, rotating the pan halfway through baking. They will bake into little domes with one flat side.<br />
<br />
Cool in the pan before turning out onto a wire rack. Meanwhile, put the chocolate in a small metal bowl, then get a small pot of water barely simmering. Put the bowl over the pot and let the chocolate melt naturally. No need to stir.<br />
<br />
When the chocolate is melted, scrape into a pastry bag or a small ziplock and nip off the end. Pipe a dot of chocolate the size of a pea onto the flat side of the baci, and press another of a similar size over this to create a little sandwich. Carefully balance on the wire rack to cool and solidify.<br />
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<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Hazlenut-Walnut-Oat Thumbprints with Rosehip Jam</span></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<i>(Adapted from NYT)</i><br />
<i><br /></i></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
183g oat flour</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
93g toasted hazelnuts, skinned</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
93g toasted walnuts</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
127g cane sugar</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
128g cold unsalted butter</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
6g vanilla extract</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
1.5g sea salt</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
Jam of your choice, I used D'Arbo rosehip jam</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
Mill your rolled, whole, or steel cut oats. Set aside.<br />
<br />
In a food processor, pulse the nuts and flour together until it resembles course polenta. Transfer to a bowl, whisk in the sea salt. Set aside.</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
In another bowl, cream the butter and cane sugar together until fluffy and pale. Beat in the extract. Now, gently fold the nut flour into the butter mixture in two additions. The dough will be quite stiff. It's fine.</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
Using sheets of parchment or plastic wrap, roll the dough into two logs, about 2" round, keeping them uniform and tight, pressing out cracks and wonks and wobbles. Be sure to finish with blunt ends. Tie the ends shut and refrigerate for at least 30-45 minutes (I refrigerated for an hour. The point is, you want it to get very cold and very firm. This is what helps the cookies hold their shape when you bake them, along with the 10 minute freeze that you will come upon in a moment. Do not shortchange your cookies by refrigerating for less time. This is a critical step to maintaining the shape of the cookies, and the integrity of the texture). Now is the time to preheat the oven. 350 degrees.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
When the logs are frigid, and working with one log at a time, slice into coins about, oh, 1/4" thick or a hair less. Line one or two sheet trays with parchment paper or Silpat. Get the coins onto the sheet pan, then shape into little cups, pressing a little dimple into the center of each round, making sure that the walls and bottom of the cup are all pretty uniform in thickness. Fill each cut with a little jam. I used rosehip jam. Yumerola.</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
Pop the sheet tray into the freezer for about 10 minutes, then pull out and slide into the oven once the cups are firm. Bake until only slightly golden, rotating pan halfway through baking. Cool for a bit in the pan before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.</div>
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You don't have to bake them immediately. The cool thing about all of these cookies is that you can make the dough, and actually just freeze it and slice off what you need when you need it. So, maybe you have a hankering for a couple of cookies. Boom. Whack off some dough, shape, fill with jam and bake (or bake and fill). Fresh cookies at a moment's notice.</div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-24528856154703397042018-01-29T18:54:00.000-08:002018-02-14T14:08:36.022-08:00Desem: A Lost Bread<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibUltkG44kGE1lr3vv87RA2uJi_t-R7nUJh-loS9JigKC5w3DYC8Kkmk_pDQ4yMdEBaC_OSp47M6MOUa8mFLnpsZ4FmVJ9DSCTroZgSr0Z8iFDjyNO-vNR-Y9tq_i8ZlyyglAco8k9uYk/s1600/IMG_8588.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibUltkG44kGE1lr3vv87RA2uJi_t-R7nUJh-loS9JigKC5w3DYC8Kkmk_pDQ4yMdEBaC_OSp47M6MOUa8mFLnpsZ4FmVJ9DSCTroZgSr0Z8iFDjyNO-vNR-Y9tq_i8ZlyyglAco8k9uYk/s1600/IMG_8588.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>-Arthur Ashe (1943 - 1993)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">THE JOURNEY</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Silence...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">More silence...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Oh, wow. No, like <i>really</i>, WOW.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Where do I begin? Well first, this is a gigantic post with loads of photos and musings, but ultimately one that I hope helps to demystify a rather curious and elusive bread that has captivated me for years. If you are familiar with Desem, you won't be surprised by the scope of it. I actually began the Desem experiment over a month ago. I've baked up around 20 loaves of it so far to be sure I've nailed this thing before passing it on to you. So, grab a cuppa something because you're gonna need it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">OK, here goes: Remember when you made your first starter? You were well proud. In the first few days she showed signs of life, okay, maybe only minute signs, but they were nevertheless thrilling, those glossy gas chambers like obsidian beads suspended in an oyster-colored cloud of rye. And you watched over her like a vigilant hen watches over her brood, mincing on tiptoe when you approached, panicking when you found her collapsed into a thick paste after a long night alone on the counter, having consumed her feast while you slept. In those early days, even the smallest sign of fermentation practically made you burst out of your skin, and you went ahead and baked with her when she was barely able to stand. You felt a little like a toddler taking his/her first toddler steps out into the great unknown. 'Man, this walking stuff is hard!' you thought in your little toddler head. 'My legs are on fire! But I see the promise in all of this. I'll keep going with it, no matter how many times I fall... I'll keep going if my legs fall off, so help me!' And fall you did. All those lopsided loaves, the ones that never quite got the oven spring you had dreamed of the night before the bake, and the oddly fermenting loaves that left weird gaping holes (no, those big holes surrounded by dense bread are NOT an 'open crumb' -- you will see signs of this in the first Desem loaves I've posted below; it is a sign of an adolescent levain, or in this case, Desem).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">But it's all good, yeah? These are the badges of a baby starter just learning to spread its wings. Babies need time to grow and mature into awesome beings. I mean, yes, babies are awesome, but they <i>do</i> fall an awful lot, I'm just sayin'. Eventually you learn to walk <i>really</i> well. In fact, you're sprinting at the drop of a hat, not even thinking of your legs at all. This is your bread stride. You've hit it, and it feels so good that you pretend to be humble when your friends tell you how great your loaves are. <i>So</i> great, in fact, that there is no bread in (insert name of city/town here) that could even come close. And you know its true. On the outside you're saying 'oh, please, you are too kind', but on the inside, oh, it’s a different story, on the inside you’re saying 'yeah, badass, me', and you take off, not even sprinting anymore, no, now you're flying laps around (insert name of city/town/CONTINENT here). You're practically a goddamned phoenix!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Well, prepare to have your wings clipped.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Desem: baby steps</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The above photo is the first loaf of Desem that I baked. My culture is only a handful of days old. With hesitation I followed the directions in The Laurel's Kitchen Bread book to bake up a loaf when the culture was far too young. It is, incidentally, the only book that I’ve found that discusses how to make this forgotten bread. It uses cups as measures, presumably to appeal to the hippies back then who had did not use scales. There is another book, The Bread Builders, that gives a nutshell idea of how the author works with his Desem in a handful of terse sentences. Indeed, the author of the book worked with Laurel in developing his own Desem as they shared stomping grounds, so he mentions his method for working with his already developed culture, but does not talk about how to birth the Desem culture itself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Laurel directs her readers to make a loaf of bread with a very immature Desem culture, just one week old, so that one can witness its maturation and gain a sense of the ultimate goal. I almost abandoned the idea because there is nothing more disheartening than pulling a loaf of bread from the oven bearing all the marks of poor fermentation. I did it anyway. A humbling kick in the pants, maybe, but I must confess, it also bore signs of hope. Laurel was onto something.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizklCqheZi5TzqnQ7xtWuucNQlm3VQn8MlNlC6-ockBs6TD39IzoH3vJCZj31Kpr0ArZ8TetAFiXciQqTad9qpO1sCe0X7ppTKw6NGFDY6Uo1tTxoRkNxmqAi1QtJRNNpWYrG0vjelqEE/s1600/IMG_7362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizklCqheZi5TzqnQ7xtWuucNQlm3VQn8MlNlC6-ockBs6TD39IzoH3vJCZj31Kpr0ArZ8TetAFiXciQqTad9qpO1sCe0X7ppTKw6NGFDY6Uo1tTxoRkNxmqAi1QtJRNNpWYrG0vjelqEE/s1600/IMG_7362.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The Desem build: a naked fermentation</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">To digress, I originally came back to the page for three experiments, my previous post that discusses and shares the technique of bolting flour so that we can lighten up our whole grain breads. I've shared this technique in the past, but I've never done 100% whole wheat, a bit of a bear, whole wheat, and one that I have managed to avoid confronting as long as I've been writing this blog. When I finally did, I was pleased with the outcome. But I did, in all fairness, experiment with bolting other whole grain flours in the past, so, I wasn't too skeptical when I finally took on my nemesis grain. The second reason I wanted to return is that I desperately yearned to demystify Desem (pronounced DAY-zum, by the way). I figured that there were probably a lot of bread heads who were in the dark about it, just like me, and who wanted to figure it out and add it to their repertoire of breads but just didn't know where to begin. The final reason I came back I will keep to myself until I'm finished with my experimentation and can thus confidently share it with you. Rest assured, I'm going to keep moving along with the blog, even when the three breads are realized. There are actually so many more things I would like to take on. It's time, you know? To do some challenging things with bread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Some of you might be wondering what Desem is, and how it differs from other sourdough breads. It is a little bit of a mystery. I have at least a dozen bread books, and only three of them mention this fascinating bread, and only briefly so, like, no more than a shout out, really, except, of course, the Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book. What I have found is that it is a 100% whole wheat Flemish bread, made with a culture of the same name. Desem means 'leaven' in Dutch. The culture, a very stiff one, is birthed from freshly milled, whole wheat flour and water. Speaking of, please don't fall for blogs that begin their Desem cultures with flour, water and a little 'help' from their sourdough starter. You can make a Desem well and truly without cheating by way of using your sourdough starter to help it emerge. You will be much more satisfied if you bring one to fruition with flour, water, patience and the skill that you have already acquired in working with your previous starters. Further, I am here to help you. Just keep reading this long-winded post to discover how.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The Desem culture is so stiff that it feels like a ball of medium-soft clay. The most unique identifying component of this Flemish dinosaur, the sole thing that drew me to it to begin with, is that it is stored submerged in a bed of wheat flour. How magnificent, the idea of an umber wedge, dense with enzymatic activity, cloaked in a flour bed. How rich, how unlike the naked, nonetheless bewitching, slurry that has lived in a jar on my counter for so many years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Desem cultures thrive in the Flemish atmosphere, that is to say a cool one, and it produces a very strong rise. The resulting bread is absent of any sourness due to the fact that it is borne and kept under strictly cool conditions. In fact, for such a large portion of culture used in the breads, it tastes of clean, sweet grain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I have discovered the reasons why it is not widely talked about. It's complicated, I'm not going to lie. I</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">t's a little tedious to manage at the start.</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The culture's activity is not so obvious, there are no telltale signs like gorgeous gassy bubbles that you can spy through the glass of a mason jar, it is inhumed, after all, and we are left to wonder what's going on beneath all that flour. The feeding of it is wholly unlike your sourdough starter, in terms of flour/water ratios, feed schedule, consistency, temperature, type of flour used, how it's stored. That's a lot to contend with when all you may want is a simple loaf of bread. The temperature issue, and it truly is an issue, is so fussy</span><i style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif;">.</i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> For instance, your burgeoning culture must be kept within an unreasonable 16 degree range, 55-70 degrees, and by god, do not let it go a degree above 70 or all kinds of monkeys fly out of the sky. My initial thought was </span><i style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif;">how the heck does anyone maintain a 55-70 degree range?</i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> I live in an apartment. There is no basement. The garage houses several peoples' cars, and probably some homeless folks in the dark hours when the building's populace is snoring into the stars. The few people on the net who have written about how to birth a Desem culture (and they either stole word-for-word straight from Laurel’s Bread Book, or they used their sourdough starter to kick start their Desem culture) either spoke of having a garage/cellar/basement and suggested that you get one in order to find success. They offer no solutions or suggestions to apartment dwellers with nonexistent underground resources like me. So now your already tedious Desem comes with a mortgage payment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Then there is the issue of your culture's storage. The Laurel book asks you to make this mass of dough, then plunge it in 10 POUNDS of FRESHLY MILLED flour. No Laurel, oh girl. NO. That is way too much flour. After reading through the directions and working with the culture/baking bread with it, it never became clear why so much flour! I started with 5 pounds, and even that was not necessary. I eventually reduced it to 3 pounds which is more than ample to house your culture. (I ask that you mill the grain for feeding daily, as it provides the most enzymes for your growing culture, and do not use the flour that shelters your culture).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Another tedious factor, and I hate to do this to all of you anxious people who want to pursue this without a mill, is that you must freshly mill all flour in the making and storage of not only your culture, but the ensuing Desem breads as well. It is the only way to go with this project. Bagged flour loses so much of its vitality as it sits on supermarket shelves. Even millers with the best intentions face the reality of their product losing its spunk once it's at the market. Freshly milled flour is brimming with enzymes, and we want the most enzymes possible in the creation of our Desem cultures. I think we have all been faced with sluggish or erratic sourdough starters, especially those using whole wheat flour, and the only way to deal with this successfully is to use the freshest flour possible.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">FINALLY, aside from temperature issues and the oddity of all that flour, the fermentation times/temperatures of your ensuing doughs take some maneuvering: 10 to 12 hours cool build x2, and 4 to 4 1/2 hours cool bulk fermentation, with a final 2 hour fermentation at 95 degrees. It turned out to be a bit of a logistical puzzle. Oh, and I say 'cool' here because you can't just pop it in the fridge for your build or your 4 to 4 1/2 hour bulk fermentation. It must be kept within that range that I discussed above and the refrigerator would be way too cold to ensure successful fermentation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Sound insanely irresolvable? Well, I was determined to find a way, and not only that, but to simplify it for everyone so you don't have to pull your hair out trying to figure it out and we can get on with the business of playing with it, exploring it, making it ours. You've avoided this bread for years (and so have I) because it's a great unknown, yeah? Well, I've spent the past several weeks making loaves, working through about 75 pounds of grain and working out a system with some definitive measurements so you can get on with this crazy and incredibly rewarding bread with ease, because man alive! is it worth it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">As you read on, you will find that but a few short weeks of painstaking care of your culture will lead to oodles of loaves of the most amazing bread. You don't have to buy a new house with a garage/cellar. After you successfully raise your culture (and I have a fool-proof way to keep the temperature constant), you can store it in the fridge, feed it twice a week to maintain it, and simply 'build' it when you want to make a loaf of bread. I've outlined the how-to below. Simple. As. That.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DESEM: NEW BEGINNINGS</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Just before Christmas, the last day of Chanukah actually, we wound up a mountain and took a woodsy holiday in a little cabin with a yellow door. As I had done some advanced planning, I found that the days and nights there promised the exact temperature range that I needed to get my Desem starter going. Well damn. If that ain’t a sign… The nights were a bit cooler than the lowest end of the range, but it turned out to be okay for the Desem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>My Desem: A first success</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I have to say, there <i>may have</i> been a moment where I wondered if I had what it takes to get this thing going. When I baked up my first loaf with my eleven-day old culture, which you really need to do in order to understand what your Desem culture is and the scope of your project through all of its stages, not just the result, I was disheartened. Though the Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book warned that it would not bake up light and airy, rather, it would be dense and would not get much rise at all. But the flavor would be good, and one would benefit from seeing a baby culture at work and what it would produce so that there was some awareness of what one could expect as it matured.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Think, the reason you make such good bread now is because you endured quite a few unfortunate loaves (I say this with all the love in the world) and stuck with them. Over time and as your culture matured, they became less, well, pitiful, and now you know what to look for in your dough, the feel of it, the visual aspect of it, and also in your breads' flavors and textures. You approach bread baking and the maintenance of your starter from an empirical position rather than one theoretical or abstract. This is the reason I do not give away my sourdough starter. You need to build one on your own so that you can develop a relationship with it, and thereby, the loaves of bread that are birthed from it take on an entirely different meaning. It’s not just some magical thing that materialized out of thin air, your bread. You understand it because you created it, you were there from its inception, you’ve watched it grow, you’ve witnessed its adolescence and fostered its maturity. My starter and I are old friends. We've been working together for 8 years. I can tell by a quick glance exactly what mood it's in, what kind of bread it will make, what I need to do for it so that it makes the best bread possible. It has become second nature, making bread. I read my doughs like books. I know what the ensuing loaves will look like, and in any type of weather, I know how long they will ferment and how to manipulate the fermentation using visual and tactile cues. I would never have this connection if I did not build my starter from flour and water, time and attention.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I followed the Laurel book at the start, but abandoned it after the first week. The directive is indispensable, but I couldn’t stand working with cups as a standard of measurement. It leaves too much room for error, and baking is not arbitrary when it comes to measurements. I do not, for instance, just add a little more flour if my dough seems too wet. The weight of flour in a given loaf is constant, and every other weight hinges off of that. If I accidentally add too much water, I either try to scoop some out, or I live with it, but mostly I am fastidious about the addition of water and salt and use the proper devices to ensure that accidents are a rare occasion. For instance, I use a sake bottle with a pointed spout to feed my starter because I can control the stream to mere droplets, thus never adding too much. The tools you need for bread baking are few, so, do yourself a favor and explore which instruments work best for you and don’t deviate from your method. I tell everyone who has come to me for guidance in bread baking to first set up a corner of your kitchen for this purpose alone. You should not move your scale, your water bottle, your culture/spoon/dump container for any reason. If you have to hunt for things or pull your scale out of a drawer for every feed, then I guarantee you will not be baking bread consistently nor successfully, and your bread career will be short-lived.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Onward.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">That first week in Desem land resulted in enormously erratic textures in the developing the culture. A cup of flour one day was too much, and I would have to do a balancing act adding more water, then oft more flour, to get the consistency right. The next day, it was not enough and the culture was too soft. Bakers need to use scales in their formulations. Not negotiable. So I actually started a new culture, first working out some proper weights in flour and water and setting a regular time of day to feed my culture so that the results would be reliable and consistent, and the culture took off much more successfully and reliably than the one that I tried using the Laurel book. I also went back and fed the Laurel starter using my new consistent units of measure, and it was not long before it too took off and remained reliable and consistent day after day. I now have two cultures, and they both work so wonderfully that I’m hard pressed to throw one of them away.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The Bread Builders book oddly ended up helping me more than the Laurel book despite its far less detailed directive. There was something about its concision, its laconic encapsulation of the process involved with the forging of what has been historically regarded as a complex bread, that resonated with me. This resonance was akin to the flooding of watercolor on paper for me, offering a beautifully vivid synopsis of Desem, <i>my Desem.</i> I found myself easily falling into its scheme, poetically because there is nothing more captivating than a lack of superfluity (something I have no talent for), more likely because I have a short attention span when it comes to following written directions. It's a weird deficiency in me. I have only ever managed to haphazardly browse any of my bread books, I know, a hard thing to admit, but there you have it. I'm more of a quickly-glance-over-then-wing-it kind of person. Something about the Bread Builders brevity respected my sensibility as a baker, as though to say 'hey, if you're reading this, you probably don't need your hand held, so here is more or less how I make this bread, go forth and prosper with it', and man, did it hit all the key points of what I felt was missing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">My culture was already well underway. I had completed the first round of breads and I wasn't thrilled with Laurel's baking style or the measuring scheme for the dough makeup (cups instead of weight, and I felt the measurements were off). So here I came up with a solution, and everything fell into place for me: I would use Laurel's direction for the day-to-day observation and care of the Desem culture, turn to Bread Builders for the Desem build and fermentation times on build and dough days, and I would come up with my own weights for flour and water and salt for my dough, as I did for my culture, and I would experiment with the bake using my usual method as a starting point, adjusting oven temperature and timing to suit my new bread. I would write it all down and in language that made sense in my given atmosphere, with my tools, and my schedule. The collaboration of the two books and my own intuition turned out to be of great success, and I have been baking Desem loaves ever since.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I wanted to mention that even though I managed to concretize the culture and dough components in weights, hydration, of course, is the one aspect that will need to be adjusted from loaf to loaf</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">, dear reader, when you are ready to take on this project.</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">But then, that is true with all our loaves of bread.</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I want to also mention that hydration will probably need to be adjusted as you feed your culture as well, but here only minutely so as the weather and the fineness of your grind changes from day to day. One day you might need 76g of water for the feed, the next 83g, and as it grows, maybe you need 94g. You get the picture. There will be some need for adaptation, but not wildly so, and be sure to keep clear notes so that you can go back and refer to them if something goes wrong (or right!), and you will know what to look for if something needs to be changed or if something works so splendidly you will want to repeat it. And finally, try to follow these instructions here to the letter before changing things. I am confident that this is a good template for you to begin your Desem journey with, and when you have the basics nailed down, you can start experimenting, and remember, ONE EXPERIMENT AT A TIME! If you are to adjust things, adjust <u>one thing at at time</u>, so that if something goes wrong (or wildly right!) you will know where and why.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Hydration is a thing that is ultimately determined by the thirst factor of your flour, the weather, and your mood. One day you might feel up to the task of a highly hydrated loaf, or perhaps you like a tighter crumb because you’re baking bread for sandwiches. Maybe the grind was a little coarse today, perhaps, a little fine. I always have a hydration starting point for my breads, enough to hydrate the dough, more on the moderate end I would say, but enough where it would bake up with fine results, and I add water according to my needs and mood. Sometimes I don’t feel like wrestling with a highly hydrated dough, other times I want to add olive oil in place of some of the water in my bread. For gift bread where I want to impress people, I pull back on the hydration just enough so that my loaves develop <i>les</i> <i>grignes prononcé.</i> Sometimes I want a big bubbly crackly thing, so I push the hydration to the brink and just deal with the spread as it’s slashed for the bake. Hydration is one area as a bread baker that you have freedom with, and you should take every opportunity to experiment with it because it radically changes the outcome of your bread, and not just in a superficial way like adding nuts or olives. Moreover, it pushes you to change how you handle your bread, not just mechanically, but with fermentation times and strategies. This is also how you come to learn about flour, how it behaves in a given bread and how it interacts with different levels of hydration. This is how you learn the </span><i style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">practice</i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> of bread baking, how to adapt, how to evolve, and ultimately, getting to know your elements allows you to take command of </span><i style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">your</i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> bread world.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">ISO the perfect crumb</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-kerning: none;">I’ve always said in my posts that the only way to do this bread thing is to experiment. </span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Y</span><span style="background-color: white; font-kerning: none;">ou all do know that I don't have a background in baking bread. I am just like you. A lay baker with a persistent curiosity and a craving to feel fulfilled in the accomplishment of simple things that somehow manage to also nourish those whom I appreciate. My Desem knowledge is in its primordial stages, and it will evolve as I come to know how to work with my culture, how to work with these 100% whole grain doughs using freshly milled flour. I am still working out the best bake strategy, and as I learn, I will share my findings with you.</span><span style="font-kerning: none;"> As I mentioned, there is not a lot written about this bread. At first I was wondering how in the world will I learn how to do this bread, and now I’m thinking that I’m not limited in any way.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">We know a few things: Desem is Flemish, it is made with 100% whole wheat, freshly milled by the baker, the fermentation times are long, the process manifold. It functions under cool conditions. The hydration appears to be modest (no hydration show offs here, it would seem, but we'll just see about that). The culture is created and maintained in a very specific and unique way and cannot be compared to sourdough starter. The breads that it yields are sweet, earthy and nutty tasting. The crumb is soft, as is the crust. It bakes up quickly and dries out rapidly (working on optimal storage for our Desem breads, and will share with you soon). But essentially Desem means ‘leaven’, and that ultimately tells me that it’s a bread risen by a natural medium, a humble bread that was made by housewives and bakers to feed their likely proletariat family members and community respectively. There was probably a ‘proper’ recipe/method for every pair of hands that made it, I can almost guarantee that its components were probably not weighed, and wedges of it were likely wrapped in cloth and stuffed into leather satchels to be consumed with hunks of cheese later in the day by workmen and children far from home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Here we go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The birth of your Desem starter is going to be a little scary, but I’m here to hold your hand. The culture you are building is quite dense, so in the beginning there will be no perceptible activity. It will build over time, I promise, you can smell something happening. It will change from ‘wheaty’ to sweet and creamy smelling, but I didn't get any huge swelling with the thing until a few days in. And then it was less bubbly than it had developed a gluten network. Yes. Sign enough. That <i>is</i> fermentation. If there was no fermentation happening, the lump would be a solid mass with no gluten development or air pockets at all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>The Desem culture, activated</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span>Have a look at this photo. Notice the gluten strands, wholly unlike the gaseous bubbles in your usual starter. This is GOOD! It means that your culture is active.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">If you want, you can make your first loaf of bread at day eleven of your culture’s maturation. It will be far too young to raise the bread properly so expect a lopsided loaf with a high peak (you will get some rise), sloping sides, and a dense crumb, but it won’t be dry or unpleasantly compacted, and it will have those odd holes indicative of an adolescent culture. The crust will be a little tough upon emergence from the oven, but it will soften. Know that your first loaf is only to familiarize you with how to work with the dough and to taste it. You need to plunge your hands in it and feel it now so that you have an appreciation and an understanding of your next round.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I was vehemently opposed to baking a loaf with an immature culture at first, but now I see the value of it. You really do need to bake up your first loaf early on so that you can bond with your starter and understand the progression of your bread. Frankly, we saw the promise in our bread. It tasted really good. Sweet and nutty. We sliced it thin and ate it plain at first, then got crazy and had it with cheese. It was nice. So nice, in fact, that I silently thought 'if I can nail this bread THEN I will be a badass,’ but a humbled one, because man, this Desem situation is really, well, humbling. The rest of the bread went to the dog, and she was happy for it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>New beginnings: the very first loaf with a baby culture, too young to fully rise our bread</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Your Desem will eventually be light. I mean, as light as a 100% whole wheat loaf can be, actually, no, I take that back. Setting out to mimic white flour breads with this is not only a mistake but does our whole Desem journey an injustice. We are not trying to duplicate any bread. Desem, like our other breads, deserves its very own place in our repertoire of fine loaves without the stress of comparison. Desem <i>is</i> light, and not just for a whole grain bread, it manages to be both light <i>and</i> toothsome. Its nutty complexity is delightful and humbling. The process of nurturing this bread into existence requires your absolute attention, and the maturity to progress down the bread path wide-open.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I think the reason why we've lost this bread in America, aside from the complexity of the process, is that Americans don't eat 'European-style' breads comprised of all or nearly all whole grains (think <i>Vollkornbrot</i>). It is because we have immature palates as a whole. We like fast food, sugar, fat and fast. We like pillowy, soft breads and are content to eat it from the supermarket shelves. We have a challenged relationship with slow, savory/funky/fermented, complexity. When I bake bread, I give it away without much thought. When I give my Desem loaves away, it is always accompanied by an explanation. People will eat this bread and they won't be delighted by it unless you grab their attention and educate them, because they have no relationship with the bake, with <i>real</i> bread like those of us who are keen on more interesting textures and flavors, those of us who know what it takes to make a loaf of bread milled from 100% whole grains. We are the Americans removed from the mainstream. I'm not sure which of my friends have thus far appreciated their Desem loaves. I will say that my boyfriend and I are enjoying it immensely. It has been a pleasure to sit down and nibble it plain, toasted (omg, toasted with olive oil is a whole new level of WOW), with cheese, with 'stuff'. Excellent with smoked salmon and onions. Herbs. This is the bread our hippie parents dreamed of, or made themselves. You know, tomato, hummus and sprout bread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>A lost bread is found again</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The second round of loaves were phenomenal. OMG, it was like the clouds parted and the sky was blue after the dark and brooding first loaf with the crazy holes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">There are still a few things to be hammered out, and as I continue to work with this starter, I will throw up posts and pull you along on this ride. One of the things I noticed is the unforgiving gas pockets that we can more or less press out or sometimes wholly ignore in our ‘usual’ sourdough breads. It is my opinion that they have time to get absorbed into the dough during the long and cold final fermentation of our usual loaves. With the Desem fermentation, you get 4 to 4.5 hour <i>cool</i> (not cold, mind) for the bulk, and 1.5 - 2 hours </span><span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;">very warm</span><span style="font-kerning: none;"> for the final fermentation. That means that it’s going to ferment very quickly, create a lot of gas, and will not have a lot of time to absorb those gasses that have been pressed to the surface. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"><i>Pockets of gas</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">And you have to deal with these gas pockets, because you can't ignore them, and you cannot merely press them into the dough or smooth them out, because if you don't, what you see in the photo above ends up at the edges of your bread like they have in the photo here...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I cannot abide by this flaw in my breads. I hate them with a passion, so I quickly sought out a device to manage them, and it's a simple one, a skewer. Laurel does mention in her troubleshooting section that one ought to, 'poke 1/2” deep holes in the dough with a serving fork or skewer’, arbitrarily, it would seem, before sliding the dough into the oven (she makes no mention of scoring the dough at all) to prevent the crust from pulling away from the sponge, but she doesn't speak of directly addressing the gas pockets, so I can only imagine that this is what she meant. Rather than an arbitrary poking of the dough upon baking, which you can see here, and which I find really unsightly….</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span>No. No, no, no. NO poking the Desem</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I think that it makes more sense to poke the actual chambers to release the gasses. So, you shape your dough into it's final round, whereupon you will undoubtedly press gas chambers to the surface of your bread. They will remain trapped there unless you prick them open and release the gas. Just a quick stab with the skewer is all it takes. Does not compromise the bread whatsoever, and what you end up </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">with is this:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">A smooth surface <i>sans</i> the nasty little air pockets that can leave a baker crestfallen. Here is a test that I did (below), poking the holes on one side of the loaf and leaving them on the other side. As you can see, <i>not</i> poking the holes also compromises the structure of the bread, as is witnessed in the sloping side along with the insidious little pocket. After final fermentation, even though you have already pricked the gas chambers after shaping, if you notice a pocket before you slide it into the awaiting cast iron, I would encourage you to quickly prick it to release the gas before baking.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">I should tell you that after your starter and first few loaves get rolling, you can refrigerate your Desem starter to hold it between bakes. After three weeks of running in and out of the house with ice packs to keep it cool, I can tell you, this will be a welcome relief. Here are loaves from our now very seasoned and capable Desem cultures…</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Laurel does not ask for the combo cooker method but advises to ‘bake the bread at 450 degrees with steam’, with no mention of how to produce the steam, and we all know how, well, impossible it is to successfully hold steam in a cheap apartment oven, or even a decent one with a better seal. Bread Builders, Wing and Scott, have big wood ovens, so, they were not helpful in the temperature or method of bake. I’m not willing to not bake them in a combo cooker though because my cheap apartment oven does not hold steam well at all, and I know that baking it without a reliable method of steaming will just end up in heartbreak. Yes, I have tried the lava rocks with no success.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">With that said, you should know that the bake temps are different than usual as well. 500 degrees, I think, is fine for initial steam, but at first I turned the oven down to 465-75 as I usually do, and I ended up with a dark bottom. To combat this, with the baking of the subsequent loaves, I now start at 500 as usual, then came down to 425 for the second half of the steam, and lower to 400 for the final stretch of the bake. I also employ a 4-ply layer of parchment paper instead of the single ply. So, one sheet folded in half then in half again. That seemed to work in preventing the dark bottoms. These breads bake quickly. You do NOT want your usual über dark bake on your Lost loaves. They should be caramel colored, not espresso or bittersweet chocolate dark. They take an hour, but check the temp at 45 minutes. At an hour, the breads came in at 210 degrees.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">What else can I say. Oh, slashing is tricky, which is why you see a lot of snipped loaves on this post. The warm final fermentation makes it difficult to get a nice clean score as we normally do with our cold dough. I thought at first that it was due to a dull razor blade. Nope. I tried a new one and got the same serrated ears.</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4bMTC7Jj0k2ROQ8h9Xy5jO7SCfGjeICMuqEJkx_xHs3NpbJgO_B27gJHSpbBUF4GiJ9IH_tul5JYsqq1UFVnTEiq1l7fEblDhG_tpvGYwpfxv5okLeIbCNl8so8R5hT4nD2FdO5BO8w/s1600/IMG_8117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4bMTC7Jj0k2ROQ8h9Xy5jO7SCfGjeICMuqEJkx_xHs3NpbJgO_B27gJHSpbBUF4GiJ9IH_tul5JYsqq1UFVnTEiq1l7fEblDhG_tpvGYwpfxv5okLeIbCNl8so8R5hT4nD2FdO5BO8w/s1600/IMG_8117.jpg" /></span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Oh, I wanted to mention that if you are still a little intimidated, don't be. I manage a very skeletal operation with basic tools. I'm a hippie, so this bread speaks to me most intimately, and my practices reflect a lack of pretension. I won't buy fancy stuff to make this happen. I have used slips of ill cut linen and Kitchenaid bowls as my 'bannetons' from the start. I have four of them and bought them for around $12 each on Ebay. They are the right size (4.5 qt), shape and depth for my dough. Bannetons are $40 bucks a pop. No thanks. The linens that I use to line the bowls are just squares that I cut from a bolt that I happened to have, and they are so old and burned from drying them out in my cooling oven after washing (and you must wash after each use), and I use my parchment paper until it turns to dust. I have one proper combo cooker (Lodge), but I also had one cast iron pan and a deep cast iron chicken fryer, as they are called, and they happen to fit more or less perfectly together. There is a 3/16" gap on one edge when the two halves are stacked mouth-to-mouth, and this little gap has never affected my bakes adversely. Nothing elaborate here. Use what you have. Spend minimal money to make this happen. Abiding by the words of Arthur Ash, I have managed to find humility and grace in the way I bake.</span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Well-loved linens, and parchment that has seen brighter days</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">A word about the grain. You will go through a lot of whole wheat for your project. So you may as well invest in a big bag. I used Great River Organic grains for my last post exclusively and I have used it again throughout this whole experiment, and man do I love them! Their grains produce Desem loaves with excellent flavor and amazing nuances. And they're organic! The breads therefrom are earthy, sweet, nutty and even floral at turns. They provide an excellent <i>quality</i> grain as well. I don't know about you, but the grain in the supermarket bins are suspicious and I have ended up with moths, bugs, larvae, rocks, twigs and worms from those bins. And once you have that in your cupboards, you are at risk of infesting your flours, beans and other grains. With Great River, I never have to worry about the quality of the grains (and this is not an affiliated post, I just believe in promoting things that I've tested and found to be of the best quality). I have provided a link below the post, just above the comments to the grain that I buy.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Great River FANTASTIC Grains!</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Without further ado, I humbly give you the mad method to making the Desem starter. I've made numerous rounds of our Lost Bread, and this is the moment I feel confident about passing along the information to you. I have included, as always, lots of photos to assist with the hopefully clear explanation. Thank you, dear reader, for meeting me at the page, for enduring my prolix tendencies. I do this for you, and it warms me to know that somewhere in the world loaves are being pulled from ovens and they are making hearts sing.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">DESEM: A NEW CULTURE FOR A LOST BREAD</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DESEM IN A NUTSHELL</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">You will bring your Desem culture to life over 11 days with a highly controlled environment and daily feedings following the instructions below. Keep the temperature range at 55 - 70 degrees. You can accomplish this by placing ice packs of some sort around your burgeoning culture, and it should be stored in a naturally cool/shady place. For further insulation, I like to pack a thick blanket over the basin that I use to ferment my cultures. You will feed it ever day, the same amount of flour, and roughly the same amount of water, though you have some flexibility in this. You want the Desem to be pliable, but not too hydrated and certainly not dry.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After 11 days, if you please, you can make a couple of loaves of bread. This will help you deepen your relationship with your Desem culture. You certainly don't have to bake up loaves now, you can totally bypass this step if you want to, and if that is the case, you will keep feeding the Desem culture for a full 21 days before baking with it.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">When you are ready to make your loaves, you will first build your Desem culture, what I mean by this is, you will make it bigger so that you have some to work with for your bread, and some to put away, your 'mother' culture, so to speak. You only maintain around 450-500g of Desem culture at a time. </span>By the time you chip away the oxidized outer layer of your 450-500g Desem, you will have about 227g. The master formula that I created here<span style="font-kerning: none;"> makes two loaves</span> of bread which need 454g of culture, so you would need to double that 227g to at least 454g to make those couple of loaves, but you will ALSO need to double THAT 454g to store away as your mother culture, remembering that we need to maintain at least 454g at all times so we can continue to bake our bread. This is where the word 'build' come in. You will BUILD your 227g culture to make your breads AND stow away as a mother. I will be playing with the numbers as we go so you can make as little as one loaf, and multiple loaves of bread. For now, I am working with the 2 loaf formula.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The first build will be from 10-12 hours. The second large build will take the same. Both builds must be kept cool! So, under the same conditions as you have been growing your culture. You have some wiggle room in terms of timing, as you can see. I've done both builds at 10 hours, and both at 12 hours and a combination thereof (for instance, build #1 at 10 hours, build #2 at 12 hours), with perfect results every time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">After the build (and stow away of the mother culture), you will do a 4 - 4.5 hour cool bulk fermentation, so, under the same conditions as you have been growing your culture. Remember, you will eventually be able to keep your culture alive in the fridge, but you will always do your culture builds and your bulk fermentation cool. (For now, anyway. I am only just starting to experiment with this bread, and I'm sure I will come up with some other methods as we move along, which, of course, I will share). Again, I have done both 4 hour and 4.5 hour bulk fermentations, both with fine results.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">After the cool bulk, you will do a WARM final fermentation for an 1.5 - 2 hours. Warm as in 95 degrees. I accomplished this by using a heating pad on a sheet tray, a towel over that, and the bowls of dough that have been divided, benched, shaped and nestled in their linens. I also preheat the oven right away and close my kitchen door to trap the heat in and keep the ambient temperature as warm as possible. I have done both 1.5 and 2 hour final fermentations. When the ambient temp my kitchen is sufficiently warm, I find that 1.5 hours works well. If it has been struggling to maintain warmth, a 2 hour fermentation works well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">After the final fermentation, you will bake the bread. I start with a 500 degree oven with my combo cookers in place as well as a pizza stone. Slide the dough in. Bake covered for 15 minutes. Turn the ov down to 425 for the last 15 of the steam. Remove the lid, and bake out at 400 degrees. Desem browns quickly, and you don't want a super dark loaf here or the crust and the crumb will be dry and tough. I am still experimenting with bake times and temps, so please be patient with me as I find the perfect combination of heat/steam/time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After the two experimental loaves on day 11, you will keep feeding your culture daily for another 10 days. On the 21st day, you will be able to make some fine loaves of bread from it as outlined above. At this point you may and should refrigerate the culture to maintain it unless you want to be squirreling around all day with ice packs to keep this thing cool. When stowed away in the fridge, you will reduce its feed from daily to twice a week. Whenever the mood to bake strikes, simply pull out the mother, do your builds, make your dough, and bake. The culture WILL continue to live in its bed of flour. You don't have to change the flour very often. I've only changed it once since I began the project a month and a half ago. I plan to only change the flour every 6 weeks or so.</span></span><br />
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Now, to get started...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>* It is understood that the flour we are using for this entire post is hand-milled hard red winter or spring wheat, so I don't have to keep typing out '</b><b>hand-milled hard red winter or spring wheat' :)</b></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">NOTE: For the feeds, please grind fresh flour every day so that you are inoculating your growing culture with as many enzymes as possible. Cool the flour before using it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAYS 1 AND 2</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Grind 4 pounds of whole wheat flour and dump into a container large enough to hold this volume. I used Great River organic hard red spring wheat (link below to the 25 pound bag. I encourage you to get a big bag of it. You will use it in no time)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pour 3 pounds of the flour into your awaiting container. From the leftover pound, tip 306g into a bowl and mix with 186g water. Form into a compact ball. The ball will be firm/rubbery/tight. </span><br />
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Bury it in the flour, making sure that the ball is completely submerged with no peeking parts. Cover the container with something, a kitchen towel secured with a rubberband, a lid, a plate… you want whatever you use to just sit atop the vessel. You don’t want to vacuum seal it, because it needs to breathe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Store your culture in a cool area. Mine lives in a copper basin on my teeny porch that is thankfully made of stone and in the shade, so it stays cool. I covered the basin with a clean blanket that I folded up. It serves as insulation to keep the cold in (and curious critters from poking around). You want to maintain a temperature of 55-70 degrees.<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The best way to accomplish this, I have found, is to begin this project at night to take advantage of the cool night air. In the morning, if the day starts to get warm, pull off the insulation blanket and surrounded the container with plastic bottles (from sports drinks, spring water, etc.) that you have filled with water and frozen overnight. Stuff the blanket back over the basin. You might be wondering why I didn’t just use a cooler. Well, a cooler without ice will be warm and I would have to constantly keep up the ice bottle situation. Storing the culture in the metal basin that sits on cold concrete will keep if far cooler.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>(2 cultures and a gang of frozen water bottles live in here)</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Leave this culture untouched for 48 hours.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 3</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and 76g water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB6AHPvc8ffkZYSrOfaqE8O9QX4lcT_Pvdnh_zvm45hn4SxYq-numODeBMcFzRla5p7hpDvQp-eNRgqIv6ujN71BrmDOanhgLqEZ3VkHM5SCm2NSBC6cGnLDV_i9QN_Lnn4M4AaKvTRpk/s1600/IMG_7262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB6AHPvc8ffkZYSrOfaqE8O9QX4lcT_Pvdnh_zvm45hn4SxYq-numODeBMcFzRla5p7hpDvQp-eNRgqIv6ujN71BrmDOanhgLqEZ3VkHM5SCm2NSBC6cGnLDV_i9QN_Lnn4M4AaKvTRpk/s1600/IMG_7262.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span>Chip away the outer layer</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Amalgamate with flour and water....</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Form into a ball...</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span>Put it back to bed (be sure to submerge it fully in flour)</span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">NOTE: If the ball is impossibly dry, then go ahead and add more water. You may have ground your flour on a different setting, thus needing more water than I did. Jot this amount down, if this is the grind you will continue to use, you will likely need the same amount of water to hydrate your developing Desem for the remainder of its feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">You want the ball to be pliable. It should feel like Play-Doh. You don’t want it dry, but you don’t want it to be too hydrated either. You will notice some fermentation happening. It looks like the gluten is developed rather than the gassy chambers you are used to seeing in sourdough starter that lives on your counter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 4</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and 76g water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Desem, just unearthed</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Starting to get stretchy...</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09Xjs30BGgmI2DO_fZHeBmN7TaX8gBJhH2963CSDDQtyFzeHGVzTN7emzjPR7t04xvGcLLhYHLTUY5lGDpPefG65PyZEXDCKKh8q4zfvcIgas9uav4aMoQZ8dMEhQUlvrpMpYdBQBag0/s1600/IMG_7289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09Xjs30BGgmI2DO_fZHeBmN7TaX8gBJhH2963CSDDQtyFzeHGVzTN7emzjPR7t04xvGcLLhYHLTUY5lGDpPefG65PyZEXDCKKh8q4zfvcIgas9uav4aMoQZ8dMEhQUlvrpMpYdBQBag0/s1600/IMG_7289.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Form...</span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7nl4QxM8giHqW6JSKSdntkpXT2P2F0ckVunD9WcxRK1-IVSUQXgMc118a3oC6bE2RL8g7tFOdA1ZMKP0gBo_qp8MRkBfPluPCv-4kd6AJlc1sJsF7n7RSSRkHD_8dR60YAYnUymjQX4/s1600/IMG_7298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7nl4QxM8giHqW6JSKSdntkpXT2P2F0ckVunD9WcxRK1-IVSUQXgMc118a3oC6bE2RL8g7tFOdA1ZMKP0gBo_qp8MRkBfPluPCv-4kd6AJlc1sJsF7n7RSSRkHD_8dR60YAYnUymjQX4/s1600/IMG_7298.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Submerge...</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 5</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and 76g water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">By now you should be the proud witness of some full on fermentation / some seriously gluten development. It will look like this as the days go on.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRihptREh8ia5akfGhkUtpVp5KJE6Yn_3un_WmjF1tJWusR5g2coN8sYdpvgkGKbjpyF7KHu-lv9XJ94I6mTmhnDEF-DmnrRJ29H-Ov4GsWdjUhpdwXN7aklOZPbf38M-xQ0iSOlYIeA/s1600/IMG_7300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRihptREh8ia5akfGhkUtpVp5KJE6Yn_3un_WmjF1tJWusR5g2coN8sYdpvgkGKbjpyF7KHu-lv9XJ94I6mTmhnDEF-DmnrRJ29H-Ov4GsWdjUhpdwXN7aklOZPbf38M-xQ0iSOlYIeA/s1600/IMG_7300.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Unearthed...</span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Disrobed...</span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Mixed, and ready for bed...</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 6</b></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and 76g water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"><b></b></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 7</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and 76g water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 8 </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and <b>81g water*</b> and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">* (was feeling a little dry)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 9</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and<b> 94g water*</b> and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">* (was feeling a little dry)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 10</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and<b> </b>94g<b> </b>water and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball. Plunge it back into the flour, cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">_______________________<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DAY 11 </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>THE DESEM BUILD</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">(I baked my loaves on day 8, FYI, but here I feel like a few more days might make a better loaf/be a little less disheartening, so, onto the Desem build...)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">OK. Today we build our Desem culture to make two loaf of bread. You can bypass this step if you <i>really </i>do not want to bake up a loaf that you know is going to come out looking crazy. But I encourage you to! It’s part of the process. If you decide that you would rather not bake up today, then wait until the 21st day of your culture and proceed with the instructions below.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>The method here produces two loaves of bread.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"><b></b></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull out the burgeoning Desem culture. Chip away outer layer, discarding the dry fragments until the remaining Desem weighs 227g. In a largish bowl, rip the ball apart, add 152g flour and<b> 95g water </b>and amalgamate it with the awaiting ball.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">THIS TIME YOU WILL NOT PLUNGE THE CULTURE IN FLOUR! You will ferment it NAKED. So, after amalgamation, place it in a bowl, cover it with something, a plate works well here, and put away for 10 hours to ferment in the same cool fashion that you are familiar with by now.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>After 10 -12* hours</b>, pull out the culture, rip it to pieces, add 304g flour and 223g of water and amalgamate. You should now have about 1,000g of Desem culture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Divide this in half. Form one half into a ball, <b>plunge it back into the flour.</b> Cover, put to bed in whatever fashion you’ve settled upon to keep it cool, and be sure to maintain a cool, steady temperature until the next feed. THIS IS NOW YOUR NEW ‘MOTHER’ CULTURE.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Take the other half of the culture, leave it to ferment NAKED again. So, after amalgamation, place it in a bowl, cover it with your plate, and put away for 10 - 12 hours to ferment in the same cool fashion that you are familiar with by now.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #454545; text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Building the Desem culture naked...</span></i></span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Fermented first build...</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "garamond";"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>Successfully built NAKED (half of the build, at least 454g, will be submerged in flour/</i></span></span><i style="color: #454545;">stored away for the next bake)</i></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Culture, ready to make bread!</span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-kerning: none;">*Notice the time range here. This should give you a little bit of flexibility in the timing of your Desem bake. The Desem schedule can be brutal. It takes a little planning so that you are not up at 3am feeding this thing (oh trust, I have serious bags under my eyes from this thing). I have included a couple of sample time schedules below so you don’t have to pull your hair out trying to figure out how you can manage things.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">_______________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>DOUGH DAY</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>BULK FERMENTATION</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After the Desem culture has happily fermented, it’s time to make the dough. Pull out the culture, break it apart into a bowl that will happily hold enough dough for two loaves of bread. Add 908g freshly milled flour, 741g water and 15g salt and amalgamate all of this.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Desem build</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>Mixed dough </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Once it comes together in a cohesive mass, knead it on a clean surface for 15 minutes. Seriously. This is not a stretch and fold situation here. It needs to be kneaded.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Knead, knead, knead...</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">And knead some more</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After you are done kneading it, and your little wing is sufficiently exhausted, cover the bowl (a big lid from one of your saucepan works well here), store it in its usual cool home, and ferment this COOL for the next 4 - 4.5 hours. Your dough will have puffed up nicely.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Nicely fermented</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>BENCH AND FINAL FERMENTATION</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Tip the dough out onto your awaiting workspace. I actually like to tare my scale with the bowl on it, then weigh my dough so I can divide it evenly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Use a bench scraper to divide the dough evenly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull the sides of your doughs into its center and bench it for 15 minutes. I know that I don’t always bench (terrible habit), but with Desem you must.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Benched Desem</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After the bench, shape the dough into tight boules. Prick any gas chambers that have been pressed to the surface with a skewer </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">and get it into a banneton (or some vessel that suits your style) whose linen has been dusted with rice flour. I have found that you don’t need much. Ignore the ‘snowy’ loaves in some of my photos. I was overzealous about flouring the linens. But you need much less than your usual sourdough doughs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Prick these with a skewer to release the gas</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Now comes the next tricky part. <b>You have to ferment this for 1.5 - 2 hours at 95 degrees.</b> Yes, I know, i know. How? EASY!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Get a heating pad. Place it on a baking sheet. Turn it up to the lowest setting (mine is 113 degrees), cover this with a kitchen towel and set your bannetons/dough bowls on top of this. AND start preheating now. Turn the oven on to 350. That will warm the kitchen and help the dough rise.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Shaped and ready for final fermentation</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">When you have one hour left of your rise (I really like 2 hours fermentation time), turn the oven up to 500 degrees and pop your cast iron combos in there. Your oven should also be outfitted with a pizza stone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>THE BAKE</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After the dough has successfully fermented, starting with one dough, place a quadrupled square of parchment over the mouth of the banneton/proofing vessel. Invert the dough onto an awaiting peel. Be sure to prick any gas chambers that have been pressed to the surface with a skewer quickly. Score with a razor blade or snip the dough with a scissors. Slide it into the shallow end of one of the awaiting combo cookers, cover with the fatty end, get it into the oven, and repeat the process with the remaining loaf.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Turned out..</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwx9_sWzZ5xsxCiu_PMN4GC26j8Zuv-wipL8A7w9IFtJHnZNllXouoRNo37HpiGk50TREtAqy1OZjsBEyCOXSdcvpiTkHiQrSwbQg0zC7Wfs3sALZFvx5p0YlUczVXua8sM7LGgbuHkQ/s1600/IMG_7828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwx9_sWzZ5xsxCiu_PMN4GC26j8Zuv-wipL8A7w9IFtJHnZNllXouoRNo37HpiGk50TREtAqy1OZjsBEyCOXSdcvpiTkHiQrSwbQg0zC7Wfs3sALZFvx5p0YlUczVXua8sM7LGgbuHkQ/s1600/IMG_7828.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>Scored</i>...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After 15 minutes, reduce the temp of the oven to 425 degrees. Bake another 15 minutes then take the lid off of the combo cooker, place it beneath the shallow half holding the bread, so that it is nestled into the mouth of it. This keeps a buffer between the loaf bottom and the hot stone, which you will need since Desem loaves darken quickly and easily.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><i>Steamed...</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Turn the oven down to 400 degrees and check its temperature after another 15 or 20 minutes. Take it to at least 210 degrees.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Cool on a wire rack. No, like really let it cool. You need a few hours for the loaf to finish baking and the crumb to set.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF0KpP1Uj13-TnMNEqK6V02HJesVnvgKbBnNwOZALkj-fEEwlj6KNmLWlGS7b4uLnj0VTKE_yqnKEdicwHO9GizcC-FAqtA4hRFSQ9JtWBEbSHTghP5R5UGISR7LUUOQ6yMSFaPenQffk/s1600/IMG_8645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF0KpP1Uj13-TnMNEqK6V02HJesVnvgKbBnNwOZALkj-fEEwlj6KNmLWlGS7b4uLnj0VTKE_yqnKEdicwHO9GizcC-FAqtA4hRFSQ9JtWBEbSHTghP5R5UGISR7LUUOQ6yMSFaPenQffk/s1600/IMG_8645.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Lemme know if you have any questions, if you spot any errors in this long ass post (I usually go back and edit the day after so I can catch errors with fresh eyes), and if I can be of any help at all on your Desem Journey!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Below is the master formula for your Lost Bread and some scheduling suggestions.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none; font-size: large;">CULTURE MAINTENANCE</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After 21 days, you can safely store your Desem culture in the fridge. You need only to feed it twice a week as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Pull your Desem culture from the fridge. Chip away the outer layer, keeping 227g of the soft interior, and discarding the hard/oxidized outer layer. Break the soft inner mass into a bowl. Add 152g freshly milled wheat flour and anywhere from 76-96g of water. Enough water to work into a pliable, cohesive mass. It should not be dry, nor shall it be too wet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Plunge in its flour bed and put back into the fridge. You only need to swap out the flour that it lives in twice</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> a month or so.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none; font-size: large;">MASTER FORMULA (MAKES TWO LOAVES):</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>BUILD YOUR DESEM CULTURE</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><u>You will need (for day 1 of the build)</u>:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">227g Desem culture</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">152g flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">94g water</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">10-12 hours fermentation time</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><u>You will need (for day 2 of the build)</u>:</span></div>
<u><span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"></span></u><br />
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All of the Desem culture that you built yesterday</div>
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304g flour</div>
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223g water</div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">10-12 hours fermentation time</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">DAY 1 OF THE DESEM BUILD:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">When you are ready to bake, pull your Desem culture from the fridge. Chip away the outer layer, keeping 227g of the soft interior, and discarding the hard/oxidized outer layer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Break the 227g of soft inner mass into a bowl. Add 152g flour and 94g of water. Amalgamate into a cohesive mass, and ferment for 10 - 12 hours cool and naked, NOT IN THE REFRIGERATOR, but as directed in your designated Desem place, using ice packs when necessary to maintain a constant cool temp that does not rise above 70 degrees.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000;">DAY 2 OF THE DESEM BUILD:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After 10 - 12 hours, break the mass of culture into bits, add 304g flour and 223g water and amalgamate. You should have around 1000g of culture. Divide it in half.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Take one half of the divided culture, form into a tight ball and plunge it back into its flour bed until you are ready to make another loaf of bread, feeding it once a week, mind, even if you don’t bake.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Ferment the remaining half for 10 - 12 hours as you did with the first build. This will be used to make your bread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>BUILD YOUR DOUGH</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">You will need:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">The remaining half of Desem culture that you fermented for 10 - 12 hours</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">908g flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">741g water</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">15g sea salt</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Break the mass of culture into bits. Add the 908g flour, 741g water and 15g sea salt. Amalgamate until you reach a cohesive mass.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Knead for a full 15 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Bulk ferment for 4 - 4.5 hours cool and naked (I like 4.5 hours), NOT IN THE REFRIGERATOR, but as directed in your designated Desem place, using ice packs when necessary to maintain a constant cool temp that does not rise above 70 degrees.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-kerning: none;">After it has fermented in bulk, weigh the dough, and divide in two perfect halves. Pull the sides of each dough into its center and </span><span style="font-kerning: none;">bench it for 15 minutes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After the bench, shape the dough into tight boules. Prick any gas chambers that have been pressed to the surface with a skewer, and get it into a banneton (or some vessel that suits your style) whose linen has been dusted with rice flour. I have found that you don’t need much. Ignore the ‘snowy’ loaves in some of my photos. I was overzealous about flouring the linens. But you need much less than your usual sourdough doughs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Now comes the next tricky part. <b>You have to ferment this for 1.5 - 2 hours at 95 degrees.</b> Yes, I know, i know. How? EASY!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Get a heating pad. Place it on a baking sheet. Turn it up to the lowest setting (mine is 113 degrees), cover this with a kitchen towel and set your bannetons/dough bowls on top of this. AND start preheating now. Turn the oven on to 350. That will warm the kitchen and help the dough rise.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">If you are like my friend D. Morton, and have a proofing box, you can use that.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">When you have one hour left of your rise (I really like 2 hours fermentation time), turn the oven up to 500 degrees and pop your cast iron combos in there. Your oven should also be outfitted with a pizza stone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>THE BAKE</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After the dough has successfully fermented, starting with one dough, place a quadrupled square of parchment over the mouth of the banneton/proofing vessel. Invert the dough onto an awaiting peel. Be sure to prick any gas chambers that have been pressed to the surface with a skewer quickly. Score with a razor blade or snip the dough with a scissors. Slide it into the shallow end of one of the awaiting combo cookers, cover with the fatty end, get it into the oven, and repeat the process with the remaining loaf.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">After 15 minutes, reduce the temp of the oven to 425 degrees. Bake another 15 minutes then take the lid off of the combo cooker, place it beneath the shallow half holding the bread, so that it is nestled into the mouth of it. This keeps a buffer between the loaf bottom and the hot stone, which you will need since Desem loaves darken quickly and easily.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Turn the oven down to 400 degrees and check its temperature after another 15 or 20 minutes. Take it to at least 210 degrees.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">Cool on a wire rack. No, like really let it cool. You need a few hours for the loaf to finish baking and the crumb to set.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none; font-size: large;">SAMPLE SCHEDULES</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">(so you don’t pull your hair out)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>IN TIME FOR DINNER</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">(2x 12 hour Desem builds)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">6am till 6pm - first Desem build, cool</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">6pm till 6am - second Desem build, cool</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">6:00am till 6:20am - build the dough and knead for a full 15 minutes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">6:20am till 10:50am - 4.5 hour cool bulk fermentation</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">10:50am -11:10am - divide, loose shape/bench </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">11:10am - 1:10pm - shape/banneton, 95 degree final fermentation</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>(preheat for an hour at 350 just to warm the kitchen, and then crank to 500 for the final</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> hour, making sure your pizza stone and combo cooker are in the oven)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">1:10pm - 2:10pm bake</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><b>IN TIME FOR DINNER</b></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">(2x 10 hour Desem builds)</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">11am till 9pm - first Desem build</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">9pm till 7am - second Desem build</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">7am till 7:20am - build the dough and knead for a full 15 minutes</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">7:20am till 11:50am - 4.5 hour cool bulk fermentation</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">11:50am - 12:10pm divide, loose shape/bench </span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">12:10pm - 2:10pm - shape/banneton, 95 degree final fermentation</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>(preheat for an hour at 350 just to warm the kitchen, and then crank to 500 for the final<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> hour, making sure your pizza stone and combo cooker are in the oven)</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-kerning: none;">2:10pm - 3:10pm bake</span></div>
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<div style="color: #454545; font-family: garamond; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i>To the Staff of Life!</i></span></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: garamond; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;">THE LOST BREAD PHOTOS</span><br />
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-76488560562314035672017-12-19T18:31:00.001-08:002018-03-01T19:51:20.462-08:00Hand-Bolted 100% Whole Wheat Loaves<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>100% Whole Wheat loaf, 90% Hydration</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Hand-Bolted through </i><i>#30, #50 screens</i></div>
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So, you know how you try to do the right thing, yeah, and make 100% whole grain loaves that 1) you have to pretend to love, yes indeed, every dry, hard nibble 2) make you silently cry inside, oi, just the thought of having to abandon the pillowy loaves that you are used to making, the ones that elevate you to superstar status in all of your friendsy circles 3) could double as doorstop, or a weapon of mass destruction.<br />
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Hey listen. I get it. I have made a few boulders in my day. I have had success with a handful of loaves (all 100% whole grain loaves are on my blog, somewhere...) but frankly, I've been far too lazy to develop more than the few that I've shared with you. I've specifically had trouble with whole wheat, which is divine when in rendezvous with white flour, but on its own, it can be pretty gnarly. The oven spring is non existent. The texture is usually like some industrial agent to insulate prison walls, and the flavor, well, who cares about the flavor if you're losing teeth while eating it (and p.s., all the love and good intentions in the world will not help anyone get past a thing that could end in a visit to the dentist).<br />
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Which brings me to our post. This is actually one of the posts that made me want to come back to the page moons ago. I wanted to do this experiment making loaves with 100% home-milled, hand-bolted flour, and man alive! Did I hit the jackpot!<br />
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As you can see, the oven spring is pretty wicked for 100% whole grain, the texture was beautiful, and the flavor was so good. Fantastic plain, great with cheese, toasted with olive oil (butter for the hedonists) and jam....<br />
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<i>100% Whole Wheat loaf, 90% Hydration</i></div>
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<i>Hand-Bolted through </i><i>#30, #50 and #65 screens</i></div>
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I did two experiments here. Both with the same ingredients, same fermentation times, same hydration. The only difference is in the bolting. For the first loaf, I sent the flour through a #30 screen then a #50, the second loaf was sent through a #30, then a #50, then a #65, so, successively finer screens. <a href="http://www.korin.com/Kitchenware_2/strainers">(You can get the screens here; don't forget to also get the frame)</a>. The differences were interesting. The one that was bolted through the #30 and #50 was more sour (which I love, actually), and the texture was closer, more uniform, but was by no means dense or 'closed'. The one that I sent through the #30, #50, and finally a #65 had a more open texture, and it was more mild in flavor (not as sour).<br />
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<i style="text-align: center;">100% Whole Wheat loaf, 90% Hydration</i></div>
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<i>Hand-Bolted through </i><i>#30, #50 screens</i></div>
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<i>100% Whole Wheat loaf, 90% Hydration</i></div>
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<i>Hand-Bolted through </i><i>#30, #50 and #65 screens</i></div>
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Both were soft and lovely, even though the #30/#50 was tighter, and both achieved fantastic oven spring, as you can see. The loaf whose flour only went through two screens achieved a little higher spring, as you can see. I have done 100% whole wheat loaves in the past, but I added vital wheat gluten to the dough, which is sort of gross, IMHO, I don't trust it, and it feels like a cheater's way of making bread. Plus it can add an odd taste to your bread if too much is used.<br />
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Of course, I am lucky enough to own a Komo mill. I've never experimented with pre-milled flour, so, I don't know what the results would be, but I'm curious to find out. The loaves both weigh in at 90% hydration, and had a final fermentation of 19 hours<br />
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<i>My beloved Komo</i></div>
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It was clear upon mixing up the dough that high hydration was necessary. 100% whole wheat sucks up a lot of h2o. The dough was pleasantly extensible but not slack. I increased the hydration because the feel of the dough with moderate initial hydration (79%) was like rubber, so I squished in enough water until it 'felt right' (weighing as I went, so I could pass the right measure on to you). The bulk fermentation was a little slow to start, only efflorescing in the final hour and a half or so. I was concerned at first, but then I figured that all of those little shards of wheat cutting at the gluten strands probably keep it from puffing up quickly. Once it was refrigerated for its long final fermentation, it increased steadily and by the next day, they were properly risen doughs. The final thing to note is that they bake much more quickly than those loaves made with white flour. I started out at 500 degrees as I usually do, then brought it down to 475 after 15 minutes of steam, then when the lid came off, after a short period of time, I saw that it was browning quickly, so reduced the heat to around 465. So, you will have to toggle, and err on the side of lower heat, I think. They finished in a nail-biting hour, meaning, I wanted to keep them in at least that long to appease my sensibility, but they were looking like they could have come out at least 10 full minutes before the hour came to its close. I may have even gone down to 450 for the last 10 for good measure, but don't quote me on that. Point being, my 'other weekly loaves' usually go for around an hour 10 minutes, starting at 500, then a solid 475 till the finish. So, make sure you don't take your eyes off of the bake.<br />
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So, before every lid comes off at steam, I say to myself, as sort of a good luck utterance 'drum roll please', always have, and probably always will because every time I've said it, I've never once pulled the lid off to a shite loaf. Gotta be something to the mantra, so I won't mess with it. This time more than a little nail-biting went on, and I think I might thrown in a quick hail Mary for good measure. <i>Et voila!</i> When the lids came off... HEAVEN! Like little golden pillows they were, and I knew the rest was a sure thing. The crust was shattery and wonderful, not at all tough or hard. And the next day when cutting the bread, it was soft and lovely and I ate a slice of it every time I walked into the kitchen. It's the sort of bread that's good for you but tastes really amazing, so you don't have to grimace with every healthy bite.<br />
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Onto bolting.<br />
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It takes a long time, a lot of muscle, and a wide open pocket book: you are looking at about, 30-40% of resulting bolted flour from the total milled. I'm sorry, I didn't weigh the berries/flour before and after, but I winced a little when I realized the yield. It's okay though, the resulting breads were enormously worth it, and I will weaken an arm any day to bolt flour to bake more of this bread. Start with a wider mesh, like a #30, to remove the largest bits, then move onto a #50 to refine the flour, removing more bran. You can stop here or choose to go onto a #65 which will remove a lot more bran, but it will also remove more endosperm, thus making for a lesser yield. I <i>have, </i>listen up, milled my grain and put it through a #30, then <i>remilled the remaining flour</i>, sending this remilled grain through a tighter screen. This will increase your yield wholly, but you will be getting more endosperm <i>and</i> more germ. It yields a flour so fine that if you were to close your eyes and run your hands through a mass of it, you wouldn't feel a thing.<br />
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This is what I did for my <i><a href="http://girlmeetsrye.blogspot.com/2014/07/pane-siciliano-and-new-michette.html">Pane Siciliano</a></i>, milling both 2 and 3x. Man alive! Remilling makes fantastic flour! It does, however, heat your flour as many times as you mill it, so if this is a concern for you keep that in mind. It also clogs your mill, so you have to brush it out after you are done milling or it will go rancid in there, or solidify and later come out in horrible hard sheets that look like whole fingernails. It's pretty horrifying, and it will ruin whatever batch of flour you are milling at that point. If you do decide to remill your flour a second go round, you will have to stir the flour over the hole for the whole milling time or it won't feed into the grinder. Oh, if you don't own a mill, you should know that the flour output is admittedly hot. One way to offset this is to keep your grains in the freezer like I do. Your flour will still be warm, but not nearly as if not frozen first. You could also <i>hand</i> mill, but this is how I feel about that: 😳<br />
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Speaking of flour/grains, I used Great River Organic hard red spring wheat for this project (I've never been able to tell the difference between spring and winter wheat, though admittedly, I've never had them side-by-side). I have had great luck with their buckwheat (they carry whole buckwheat, fyi, rare these days, since it's usually winnowed before being packaged up and sold to you), and wanted to try their wheat. Wow. The flavor is beautifully floral. I have tried a lot of different wheat berries, but theirs is my favorite to date. Just lovely. I got an enormous bag of it (Amazon, yo! <b>I've added a link to the grains just below the comment section of the post</b>☟), necessary since the yield in flour bolting is so very low.<br />
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OK, so, to bolt the flour, you literally mill your grain, cool it, then send it through a succession of screens. Fit your drum with a screen and whisk your hand back and forth over the milled grain, quickly. Press the grain as you do this (use a lighter hand when starting with the #30), essentially, <i>rub</i> the flour through the screen until no flour falls from the other side of the drum. It takes some time. I think it took the better part of an hour to do the lot for these two loaves.<br />
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A #30 screen will remove the biggest bits. Send the resulting flour through a #50 and you will arrive at a wonderful, useable flour, as seen in the photos above. If you are an over achiever and have more stamina, send the #50 bolted flour through a very fine #65 and you will arrive at a lovely, soft flour that yields a heavenly crust and crumb.<br />
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On that note, I'm gonna run. All this talk about bread makes me ready for a slice. Let me know if or when you decide to try these breads, and by all means, contact me if you have any questions before you give it a go. I'm here for you, and check my email often.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Hand-Bolted, 100% Whole Wheat, 90% hydration </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>MAKE YOUR LEVAIN</b></span></div>
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<b>For the <i>levain</i>, you will need</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">75g freshly milled whole </span>wheat<span style="font-family: inherit;"> flour</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">75g h2o</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">12g 100% hydration, 100% rye starter</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Mix together your <i>levain</i> ingredients and ferment. Mine fermented for 8 hours.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>DOUGH DAY</b></span></div>
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<b>For the dough, you will need</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">All of the <i>levain</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">453g h2o</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">500g hand-bolted whole </span><span style="font-family: "bentham";">wheat</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> flour*</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="color: #990000;">(*either send through #30 and #50 screens successively for a tighter crumb, OR #30,</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #990000;"> #50 </span></span><span style="color: #990000; font-family: inherit;">and #65 screens successively for a more open crumb)</span></div>
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10g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">When your <i>levain</i> is properly fermented, d</span>issolve it in the water and mix it together with the flour and the h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. This will take some muscle and it may feel a little tough/rubbery (hence the need for more water), but don't fret. It will relax in autolyse, and you can always add more water during salt if you need to.</div>
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Autolyse for 1 hour 30 minutes. After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough until it's fully incorporated work the dough into a smooth mass. Now it's time for the 3 1/2 hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns every half-hour for the first hour and a half taking care not to deflate the dough. Leave it be for the final 2 hours.</div>
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Turn the dough out onto a workspace dusted with some freshly milled brown rice flour. Shape into a loose round. Let it rest on the bench for 10 minutes.</div>
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After the bench, shape the dough into a taut <i>boule</i> and pop into a banneton or a bowl lined with linen that you have dusted with brown rice flour, or, if you prefer, some leftover chaff from bolting your flour.</div>
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Pop in the fridge and ferment for 19 hours.</div>
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<b>BAKE DAY</b></div>
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Preheat the oven to 500 with a dutch oven and baking stone inside.</div>
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Unearth the dough by placing a sheet of parchment over the mouth of the dough bowl, then place a peel over this and quickly invert the bowl so that the dough ends up sitting on the paper and the peel, seam side down.</div>
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Snip the thing in some divine manner. A note, with very highly hydrated loaves or slack dough loaves, I find it best to snip vs. slashing the dough to prevent bleeding. These, however, I scored with a razor blade with great success.</div>
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Slide it into the shallow half of the hot dutchie. Cover with the fat half, slide it into the oven, and steam for 15 minutes at this temp, then turn the oven down to 475 and steam for another 15 minutes.</div>
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After the steam, remove the fat end of the dutchie, then stack the pan over its mouth to create a buffer between the hot stone and the bread. This will help keep the bottom of your bread from blackening.</div>
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Toggle the oven between 460 and 475 until the <i>boule</i> is baked to desired darkness. I baked mine to an internal temp of 210 degrees.</div>
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Cool on a wire rack for at least an hour before slicing.</div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">THE HEADSHOTS</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;">(and some other breads I made this weekend for friends...)</span></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-16696962592260816872017-11-24T09:22:00.000-08:002017-11-27T18:54:50.317-08:00Retarding Your Levain <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Picture this: The sky has gone black, the day is done, and you've just begun a levain for tomorrow's bake. It's gonna be a good one, with walnuts and all that. You're buzzing with anticipation, and tomorrow you have no intention of leaving the house. At. All. All you want to do is bake your loaf, fill up the house with that smell that a) reminds you that you're a bad ass and you might even be a little magical, after all, you bake amazing bread which is kind of like bringing forth life, plus, you make it all seem so effortless b) brings you back to center, to the root of your being. You feed yourself and those you love, and dammit, you <i>could</i> feed the world if you wanted to, with just a little flour and water. Yeah. Magic, you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSYRvYr52qF3spVEx43oXfuDVDSHIa4HGZvgsMEvuqcRdMUgLElsiAFZGucXolT8LP9UNXvSf0sQnsEl3xZOUYemFasp1WIJFMrsTgPAAIMi-hzCcb4yUvct8bSAfaMB9kxU1s72wQzw/s1600/750+seeded+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="750" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSYRvYr52qF3spVEx43oXfuDVDSHIa4HGZvgsMEvuqcRdMUgLElsiAFZGucXolT8LP9UNXvSf0sQnsEl3xZOUYemFasp1WIJFMrsTgPAAIMi-hzCcb4yUvct8bSAfaMB9kxU1s72wQzw/s1600/750+seeded+copy.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>18-hour retarded levain</i></div>
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With dreams of golden loaves dancing in your sleepy head, you suddenly receive a text. It's your bestie inviting you to go apple picking. But you have to leave at 7am. WTF? And hello, how dare she? That's right in the middle of dough day! I can't... but wait, it's <i>apple picking...</i> How can you pass that up? You can't. So you push out a sigh of resignation. You'll go apple picking, pacifying yourself with some crazy idea, like maybe you can make some sort of apple bread that will redeem the intrusion. Alas tomorrow, no walnut magic bread smell that makes you feel like Ghandi inside. No feeding the world for you. You'll have to just pitch the levain in the trash. Hey, it's just a little flour and water. Big deal. So you do it. You crawl out of bed, take your dough scraper and in one deft movement, you scrape that alchemical seed right into the bin. You do it now because you can't bear the thought of doing it in the morning when it's puffy and ripe, your sweet little cherub come to life. Hey, it's no big deal, you think. But secretly you die a little inside.<br />
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Well, NO MORE my friends! I have made a delicious new discovery....<br />
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YOU CAN RETARD YOUR LEVAIN!<br />
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Did you know this? Or am I the only one who has missed the memo on this? I've pitched many a levain in my life, yeah, many little pieces of me have died those terrible little deaths. Maybe there are scores of you right now thinking 'well, duh, we <i>all </i>know that you can retard your levain, rye girl...', but maybe there are two or three of you out there who didn't know, and so this post is for you. I say, you <i>can</i> feed the world <i>and </i>go apple picking! Isn't that ever so splendid!<br />
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<i>24-Hour Retarded Levain</i></div>
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I'm posting three of my weekend experiments here, a seeded loaf with a levain that was retarded for 18 hours, a walnut bread whose levain was retarded for 24 hours, and a plain Jane with a 40-hour retarded levain. This is what made me want to come back to the page, actually. I had done a 40-hour retarded levain many moons ago, and it came out so swimmingly that I wanted to share the tasty little epiphany with you.<br />
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<i>40-Hour Retarded Levain</i></div>
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I baked all of the loaves with an hour and a half autolyse, a 3.5-hour bulk, and an 18 hour final fermentation in the fridge.<br />
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I didn't record the formulae because the post is meant to be more about the possibility of retarding your levains, but they are all just 88g of freshly milled spelt, 412g BRM Artisan, and around 360g of water (my sort of default starting hydration now) with an added splash during salt (so, total, probably at 385g water or so, but don't quote me on that) to balance the consistency of the dough, 10g of salt, and the usual dealeo with the levain measures. I did not weigh the nuts or seeds, so, you'll have to go with your gut on that. And man! The texture of the breads was phenomenal! Light crumb, uber shattery crust. Some of the best loaves I've baked in a while.<br />
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Let me know if what happens with your breads if you've found yourself faced with retarding your levain. I hope this post saves those few loaves that might otherwise be forsaken. I'm keeping this conveyance short and sweet, but I wanted to get it in before the holiday craziness in case some of you are faced with unanticipated schedule changes that may be hampering your bread baking.<br />
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<i>18-Hour Seeded</i></div>
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<i>24-Hour Walnut</i></div>
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Oh, one last thing. I wanted to say thank you, dear Reader, for linking arms with me on my bread journey. For welcoming me back to the page. Thank all of you who have emailed me and told me that this little corner of the internet, Girl Meets Rye, is what helped you learn to bake bread, make a starter, start a bakery (!) Thank you for telling me that these loaves have made your special occasions more special, or that I helped you to turn something scary into something not only 'doable', but something that absolutely thrives. Thank all of you for reaching out to tell me that this blog has never failed you. May your starters live long and feed many. This has been one of the most magnificent experiences that I've ever had in my life, and I'm honored that you have all continued to meet me here at the page.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Vanity Shots</span></b></div>
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<i> walnut, perfectly steamed</i></div>
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<i> seeded, perfectly steamed</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-54124977915948237752017-11-21T16:32:00.002-08:002017-11-22T13:24:13.830-08:00Squid Ink Bread (and hello...)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So, either you're gonna love this bread because it's totally zany, or you're going to be totally grossed out by it. I fall into the former. Imagine this with cream cheese or crême fraîche, lox and dill. Yeah. You gotta use your imagination. With that said, my BF is horrified by it. But frankly, the squid ink adds no flavor to the bread. This one here is accented with rosemary and aleppo pepper, so it's basically a rosemary bread with a slight kick, and it's really good!<br />
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<i> Squid Ink Bread</i><br />
<i>(Can I mention how challenging it was to photograph this bread??)</i></div>
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And, hey, hi, hello! Its been, what, three years?? I've missed being here. But rest assured, I'm still baking weekly. In fact, my bread life is coming up on 8 years. Damn. And yay!<br />
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I came back because I have a few fun new things to share with you. I also wanted to sort of dust off the cobwebs because I <i>mostly</i> find myself 'just baking bread', ya know? Without really diving into anything too experimental. I have some good stuff to relate, but I also came back to the page to push myself to do some interesting things, and y'all know I can't do that without sharing with you. Plus, my friend Michalis intimated that new posts would be warmly received, and so, here I go with all that.<br />
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Okay, so, I made a black loaf of bread. I will admit, anytime I used to see black bread I would recoil a bit (I think mostly because the ones I have seen are made with charcoal. No, just don't. And why?). But then I tried some squid ink bread at Mario Batali's new Los Angeles Eataly and was was like 'oh damn, DAMN and yes, please, please DO!' This is the loaf that has brought me back to the page. (BTW, Batali's Eatly?? The bomb. And you can get squid ink there, fyi...)<br />
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This bread is simple, really, and can I just remind you all that when experimenting with bread, don't go wild. Approach it with a cool head and hand. For instance, I could have tried a new flour and a new technique, along with working with a new ingredient (squid ink), but if something went wrong, I would have no way of knowing where to begin to unravel things to make it right. The addition of squid ink is enough. It adds hydration AND salt, so, just start there and once you nail it, then you can change up the flour or add another thing.<br />
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Speaking of salt, squid ink is very salty. Taste it before you add it to your dough, don't just take my word for it. You really need to know how salty it is before you begin, because your brain will think 'ah, okay, if I add 21g of this salty squid ink, just how much more salt do I need to add? Or, do I need to add <i>any</i> salt at all?' It's a good thing I worked all that out for you so you don't have to make a too salty/not salted enough bread.<br />
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Another thing to consider is the ingredient itself. You might say 'hey, I'll add seeds to this bread too!' Really? Think about that. Would you make a dish of, say, squid pasta and add seeds to it? No. Gross. Ok, maybe not gross, but just not right. You wouldn't add cheese either, because Italians have a very specific rule about cheese and seafood, it's just not done. Just think of this sort of thing when making your bread.<br />
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(Ignore the fact that I just told you to smear cream cheese on a slice, and the obscene slab of cheese in this photo here):<br />
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So, Batali's bread has rosemary in it. Makes sense. Think about it, pasta with squid and rosemary would be pretty bomb, so that flavor combo would be bomb in bread too. Cool. Doing it. Plus I have a huge rosemary shrub just outside my front door. The one thing I am adding that Batali does not is aleppo pepper, because a plate of pasta with squid, rosemary and aleppo pepper just sounds heavenly. It's going to add a bit of kick and earthiness to the bread.<br />
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Just so you know, I am still using my 100% rye starter with all my breads. Because what would 'Girl Meets Rye' be if not for that starter, the thing that launched, well, everything. It is the backbone of this blog, after all, and it was the backbone of my Tartine Bread Experiment blog as well. My starter is my holy grail. And if anyone wants a recap of how to make one, I am so happy to do a simple post to revisit it (though my original post is very informative). It's essentially 30g dark rye, 30g water. Mix. Let sit. It ferments after a bit. Done. You should be on your way to making bread in about 9 days.<br />
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This bread began with a 100% rye levain, my favorite. 12g starter, 75g water, 75g dark rye that I milled at home, but you can use rye flour from the store. I recommend Bob's Red Mill. It's inexpensive, available, and reliable. Keep this in mind, some rye berries from 'the bin' at supermarkets is old, and I have been faced with bugs and mold and, oh lord, cocoons! I'm totally not kidding. Avoid that and get your grains from a reliable source. Because all it take is one moldy batch and your 8-year old starter is gone. Can you imagine? P.S., this is why you should also keep a backup in the fridge. I swap the old one out for a new one every couple of months to keep it current. And you should too.<br />
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Onward.<br />
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A thing to note is that most squid ink that you see on the market is really cuttlefish ink. A cuttlefish is a much larger cousin to the squid. The ink from the cuttlefish, squid, and even octopus, are interchangeable. So, don't freak out if you get to the market and only find cuttlefish ink. It's all good.<br />
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I wonder how many of you will make this. You can add less squid ink and make a pale gray loaf. You know what? I'mma do that for you next week, and I'll add some photos to this post so you can see what that looks like. That's what Batali does, more dark gray than haunted house black like mine here. But frankly, if I'm going to go squid ink, I'm going to go for real black.<br />
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<i>Looks a little like a sliced meteor</i></div>
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I'm happy to be back. I wonder if I'm talking to an empty auditorium or if any of you will find your way back to me. If so, I can't wait to hear from you. I can't wait to share more cool things with you. Have a happy Thanksgiving. I have to run and make another loaf for my boyfriend, because when I told him this was what he was getting for the big day, I think he might have cried a little.<br />
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Without further ado, I give you your dark and stormy (and delicious) bread.<br />
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<b>Components for the levain:</b><br />
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12g 100% rye starter<br />
75g water<br />
75g dark rye flour (I milled my own, but BRM dark rye works well)<br />
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<b>Components for the dough:</b><br />
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All of the levain<br />
350g water<br />
50g dark rye flour (I milled my own, but BRM dark rye works well)<br />
450g bread flour (I used BRM Artisan)<br />
21g squid ink<br />
15g extra virgin olive oil<br />
6g salt (I used Diamond kosher salt)<br />
5g rosemary chopped finely<br />
4g aleppo pepper<br />
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Rice flour for shaping, I used black forbidden rice that I milled at home<br />
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<i>Forbidden Rice Flour</i></div>
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<b>Day 1: Make the levain</b><br />
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Mix 12g 100% rye starter with 75g water and 75g dark rye flour (I used freshly milled). Ferment overnight. Mine went for 7 hours 50 minutes<br />
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<i>Levain</i></div>
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<b>Day 2: Make the dough</b><br />
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Add 350g water to the levain, then 50g dark rye flour and 450g bread flour. I used BRM Artisan. Leave this to autolyse for 1 hour 15 minutes<br />
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After the autolyse, disperse the aleppo pepper, the salt and rosemary over the dough, and smear the squid ink over the surface. This helps everything to get incorporated more easily. Squid ink, as I have found, takes a bit of elbow grease to fully mix into the dough.<br />
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When you've just about amalgamated everything, squish the olive oil into the dough, and complete the amalgamation. Let it be for an hour. Its gone through a lot.<br />
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Perform folds for the next 30, 60, and 90 minutes. Leave the dough alone for the rest of the fermentation. The bulk fermentation time, <b>excluding the hour autolyse</b>, is 4 hours.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Amalgamated</i></div>
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After the bulk is complete, the dough should be billowy. Spread a proofing cloth (I just use a square of linen) over the kitchen table and sprinkle generously with rice flour. Enough so that when the dough ferments, it won't stick to the cloth. Pull out your proofing bowl. Ignore all that for a minute and...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlcHuXaXB7azdB_7k0RDSHsrLVthpSdUZhNQSvznwiwMC6W69AVwkk5SPkVBUvZoq8ZvQwDeiHFL5qc87MbWb8bITuhjfXeGv-fVKIbDvjQi7Ksj9xgHTfqrfbWBUXotUo4NlX9chyphenhyphenkq0/s1600/IMG_6904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="900" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlcHuXaXB7azdB_7k0RDSHsrLVthpSdUZhNQSvznwiwMC6W69AVwkk5SPkVBUvZoq8ZvQwDeiHFL5qc87MbWb8bITuhjfXeGv-fVKIbDvjQi7Ksj9xgHTfqrfbWBUXotUo4NlX9chyphenhyphenkq0/s1600/IMG_6904.jpg" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Billowy Upon Completion of Bulk</i></div>
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Spread rice flour over a work surface and scrape the dough onto that. pull the sides into the center of the dough to make a neat package, now flip it over onto its foldy side and twist it to form a tight boule.<br />
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Using a bench scraper, scrape the boule from the work surface and place it, smooth side down, on the awaiting linen. pull the sides in and pop this into the awaiting bowl. I use a 4.5 quart Kitchenaid mixing bowl and the size and shape is perfect. Scrape up any residual rice flour from the work surface and sprinkle over the top of the dough, so as not to be wasteful. Cover the bowl with a plate, pop in the fridge, and ferment for 18 hours.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Turned out onto rice flour</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Pull in the sides to make a tight parcel</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>A tightly wound boule</i><br />
<i><br /></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Turn out onto the awaiting rice-floured proofing cloth (OMG, it IS a meteor!)</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Into the awaiting bowl, ready for final fermentation!</i></div>
<br />
<b>Day 3: Bake day</b><br />
<br />
An hour before the fermentation is done, preheat the oven to 550 degrees (the oven should be fitted with a baking stone) with a combo cooker inside of it.<br />
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After the preheat, (pay attention here:) 1) cover the mouth of the bowl with a square of parchment paper (** also, save this parchment square when the bread is done baking! It will last for many, many bakes!) 2) place your pizza peel over the parchment bowl 3) invert the dough onto the peel, now peel the proofing cloth off, score the dough with a razor (or snip with scissors), slide the dough into the shallow part of the hot combo cooker, cover it with the fatty end, push it into the oven and bake for 15 minutes at this temp. After 15 minutes, turn the oven down to, oh, 450-475. Bake for another 15 minutes. After this, pull the lid off of the combo cooker and marvel at your perfectly sprung loaf! Nestle the pan holding the bread over the mouth of the combo cooker lid. This provides a buffer from the oven floor so you NEVER get burnt bread bottoms.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Inverted and perfectly fermented</i></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Score: the trademark swirl, for old time's sake!</i></div>
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Bake for another 30 minutes, spinning the pan at least once to ensure an even bake, as well, you may have to toggle the oven temp up and or down if the bread is baking too quickly/not baking quickly enough. This one took an hour. Usually my breads go for an hour and 10, but the crust on squid ink bread goes tough if left to bake that long. The internal temp of the bread should be at least 210 degrees when you pull it form the oven. I think mine was like 215 or something like that.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Et, voila!</i></div>
<br />
Yay! I'm back!<br />
<br />
To the staff of life!<br />
<br />
xo<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-5952089779302740382015-05-27T11:54:00.000-07:002015-11-18T11:13:25.847-08:00yes, i have been baking...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
a few people have written and asked where i went. i'm still here, still baking. but no new post-worthy developments. i hope you are all happily baking too!<br />
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-29772007346591281192014-10-09T16:19:00.001-07:002014-10-10T21:45:32.197-07:00xo David Lebovitz<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I LOVE LOVE LOVE David Lebovitz. I do. We share stomping grounds/passions. First, we are both from the Bay. He cooked at Chez, I was at Oliveto. Then he took off to Paris, as did I. Difference is, he never came back, I did. Oi. What was I thinking? There is still hope, however. If I am not mistaken, he left for Paris when he was 47 (?) which still gives me some time to wrap up a few things before I hit the road. For now, I will live vicariously through him. Which is a pleasure, not only because he writes about my favorite city, but he writes about it so well.<br />
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I am actually <a href="http://www.amazon.com/My-Paris-Kitchen-Recipes-Stories/dp/1607742675/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412894802&sr=8-1&keywords=david+lebovitz">reading his current cookbook</a> as a novel (thank you Sandra C., for giving it to me for my birthday!). It's not just a great book of recipes and tales, but David has a way of really connecting with his readers. He's humorously self-deprecating, and he makes us feel like we should be linking arms and laughing our way along the Seine, saying: '<i>Ces drôles Française</i>!' (<i>et, oui, je parle Français. C'est vrais, hier soir je rêvais en Français</i>!).<br />
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Speaking of making merry with friends, I had this little dinner party last night, having bookmarked several pages from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/My-Paris-Kitchen-Recipes-Stories/dp/1607742675/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412894802&sr=8-1&keywords=david+lebovitz">David's book</a> the week prior. I could not decide which salad to make, such a complication! So I did my own thing. I did, however, have the faculty to decide on these lovely-looking black olive/almond crisps, and man, oh, man! did they came out smashingly.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">David Lebovitz's Salted Olive Crisps</span></i></div>
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So much, in fact, that I thought up a whole nother version of them. My version has raisins, flax seeds and hazelnuts, and I ground my own spelt (David uses whole wheat). Divine, these. I served both varieties with this lovely roasted red pepper feta thing <i>que je fais pour mes petites soirées</i>, and they were a hit. I think that these are going to be my go-to crisps for the holiday season. They whip up in a hot second (no sourdough here, just a heads up; the loaf calls for baking soda) with zero fuss, and you are likely to have all of the ingredients for both versions loitering about.<br />
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Thank you D.L., for continuing to bring me Paris, making me proud to be a Bay Area girl, and for sharing many lovely things to carry me through the upcoming season. <i>Et oui alors</i>, onward<i> à la recette.</i><br />
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xo<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span><br />
I am starting with the recipe for David's crisps, but I encourage you to get your own copy of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/My-Paris-Kitchen-Recipes-Stories/dp/1607742675/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413002689&sr=8-1&keywords=my+paris+kitchen">his book from Amazon</a>, because it really is incredible. If you have not already, you should also visit<a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/"> his blog</a>. The only adaptation I made was that I added some lemon zest to the batter, and I used fresh thyme instead of dried, as David suggests. My version, a sweet one, is just below.<br />
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70g all-purpose flour (I used Giusto's Artisan flour)<br />
70g whole wheat flour (I used Community Grains hard red winter wheat)<br />
1 TB granulated sugar (I used Trader Joe's organic cane sugar)<br />
1 tsp fresh thyme<br />
Zest of one lemon<br />
1/2 tsp kosher salt (I used Diamond)<br />
1/2 tsp baking soda<br />
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper (I employed a coarsish grind)<br />
250 ml buttermilk<br />
45g untoasted almonds (they will toast up once you slice the loaf into crackers and give it a second bake)<br />
60g coarsely chopped and pitted black olives (I used oil cured)<br />
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Preheat the ov to 350. Slick a 9" loaf pan with olive oil, and line it with parchment for easy removal of the loaf after baking.<br />
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In a bowl, mix together the flour, salt, soda, pepper, zest and herbs, then stir the buttermilk into this, now the almonds and olives. Using a spatula, get the batter into the awaiting pan and bake till a cake tester shoved into the center of the thing comes out clean. Mine took longer than the 30 minutes that David suggests. It will be a little golden, but don't let it get too dark. You are going to slice and bake the crisps in a moment.<br />
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Remove the loaf from the oven and cool in the pan for about 5 minutes. Unearth the loaf from the pan and cool on a wire rack for about 20 minutes.<br />
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Decrease the ov to 325. Line a baking sheet with silpat or parchment. Set aside.<br />
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After the loaf has cooled some, slice it into 1/4-inch slices and lay in a single layer over the baking sheet. Bake the slices, watching them carefully, until they turn golden brown. You will have to flip the slices (the bottoms brown quicker than the tops) and rotate the pan during the bake for even browning.<br />
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Remove from the ov and cool before serving. Well, this is what David says. We ate some warm, some cool. You know. Evidently they can be stored for a week in an airtight container, but we had no need for storage. These crisps were gone in a flash.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Spelt Crisps w/Hazelnuts, Flax, and Sultanas</span></i></div>
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(adapted from David Lebovitz's <i>Salted Olive Crisps</i> from his book <i>My Paris Kitchen</i>)</div>
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70g all-purpose flour (I used Giusto's Artisan flour)</div>
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70g freshly milled spelt flour</div>
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1 TB granulated sugar (I used Trader Joe's organic cane sugar)</div>
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Zest of one lemon</div>
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1/2 tsp baking soda</div>
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250 ml buttermilk</div>
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45g untoasted hazelnuts (they will toast up once you slice the loaf into crackers and give it a second bake)<br />
30g flax seeds</div>
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60g sultanas that have been soaked in hot water for about 30 minutes, then squeezed dry</div>
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Follow the directions as above, mixing the dry ingredients, then stirring in the buttermilk, and finally, folding in the nuts, flax and raisins. I served these crackers with a lovely roasted red bell pepper feta dip.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Red Pepper Feta Dip</span></i></div>
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Thank you David for the continued inspiration. You are a gem and a doll and we all love you so!<br />
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xo<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-58627631936141849882014-09-10T12:09:00.002-07:002014-09-12T08:31:56.284-07:00Bird Seed Bread<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Growing up, my family cared for a menagerie of odd animals - rodents, snakes, newts, anoles, aggressive bullfrogs - but we also had dogs and, my favorite, parakeets. My mother would teach them to curse when she cleaned out the cage. There is nothing quite like entering a room lain with a carpet of swear words and whistles.<br />
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When it came to feeding time, this was my business. I always wanted to feed them three-times what my mother would allow. It just seemed like such a teensy amount. I would myself nibble on the shiny little beads of seed, the little birds cooing 'F-you, F-you' in my ear. Of course, the little yellow pellets were the best. Millet. Crunchy and mealy and strange.<br />
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Millet is one of those things that people approach with apprehension. It is a seed, yeah, not a grain. In America it was only ever used as bird fodder, though we have all read in our Encyclopedias that it is an important staple in Africa. It would take the hippies decades to sing of its virtues before successfully raising it from exoticism and ignobility alike.<br />
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I've been eating millet for as long as the hippies have been extolling it. For me, it's the same as reaching for brown rice or the more highly-esteemed quinoa. Here's a tidbit: millet is said to reduce cellulite (most important), and it is also proven to reduce the risk of heart attack, migraines and the severity of asthma. This ought to get you all cracking then on this loaf of bread whether for health or vanity.<br />
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This loaf was an experiment. I had some millet, I wanted to use it up, and this is a bread that I have neither read about nor experimented with. Here's some helpful advice: I actually use millet to clean out the Komo between millings because it's cheap. After milling your flours, run a cup or two of millet through the machine on a coarsish grind and it will gather up the collecting flour and dash it out of the machine. This is especially helpful if you are making durum <i>rimacinato</i> regularly, since the very fine flour has a tendency to cake up in there and shoot out in nasty little sheets the next time you move to make flour.<br />
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I have to say. Wow. This bread turned out amazingly. I first toasted up a measure of millet, ground some of it up into flour (52g) and added the whole toasted and soaked seeds to the dough (75g). The resulting loaf turned out nutty and toasty and delicious. The little seeds tenderized during baking, so, no crunchy little bits here. I also added some freshly milled Bob's Red Mill hard white wheat flour to the dough (107g), and the remainder of the flour was, of course, my beloved Giusto's Artisan. The shattery crust was beautifully festooned with little golden beads, making the loaf not only heavenly to taste, but glorious to behold.<br />
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It's impossible to keep from eating slice upon slice of this bread. So the next time someone accuses you of eating like a bird, you might think of this loaf, smile knowingly and say, 'Yes, yes I do.'<br />
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I give you this week's bird seed bread.<br />
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<i>This formula makes one loaf</i></div>
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MAKE YOUR LEVAIN</div>
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3 or 4 days before you make your <i>levain</i>, kick it into high-gear by feeding it 3-4x a day. On <i>levain</i> day, you will need:</div>
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11g <a href="http://tartine-bread.blogspot.com/2013/02/9-days.html">100% hydration dark rye starter </a>(mine is made with <a href="http://www.bobsredmill.com/">BRM</a> home-milled dark rye flour)</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span">75g freshly milled </span><a href="http://www.bobsredmill.com/">BRM</a><span class="Apple-style-span"> hard white winter wheat flour</span></div>
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75g h2o</div>
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Mix the <i>levain</i> ingredients together until you reach a paste. Mine fermented for about 8 hours.<br />
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:<br />
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345g h2o<br />
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341g Giusto's Artisan flour</div>
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107g Bob's Red Mill hard white wheat</div>
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52g toasted* millet flour*</div>
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75g toasted* millet, soaked overnight (on the counter is fine) and drained well</div>
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13g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">*To toast millet, just pour the total amount of millet needed for your formula into a cast iron pan, and over high heat, toss the millet ceaselessly in the hot pan until it turns golden brown. For this formula, toast the total amount of millet needed, then grind 52g of it into flour and soak 75g overnight on the counter. I just poured this amount into a glass measure, filled it with water and let it be.</span><br />
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Back to the formula.<br />
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When your <i>levain</i> is properly fermented, mix together the <i>levain</i>, the flours, the soaked and drained millet and the h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1 hour.</div>
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After the autolyse, the dough should have expanded a bit. Squish the salt into the dough until it's fully incorporated work the dough into a smooth mass. Now it's time for the 4-hour bulk fermentation.</div>
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Every half hour, perform a series of turns, taking care not to deflate the dough as you near the end of bulk. You will likely stop your turns somewhere around 2 hours into the bulk. For the remaining bulk, leave it untouched. I did two hours of turns, left it untouched at room temp for an hour, then popped it in the fridge for the final hour because it has been really warm here.<br />
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When bulk fermentation is accomplished, turn the dough out onto a workspace dusted with brown rice flour, and shape into a loose round. Let it rest. Mine rested for 10 minutes. </div>
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After the bench, shape the dough into a taut <i>boule.</i> I am a huge fan of the 'Forkish fold', so, I shaped the <i>boule</i> and popped it into a bowl lined with linen that I have first dusted with brown rice flour (you may use a <i>banneton</i>), <i>seam-side down.</i><br />
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The next day when you unearth the dough, the seam-side lands upward, and it is at these fissures that the steam is released, thus the dough will open erratically and beautifully.<br />
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Alternatively, you may shape your <i>boule</i> placing it seam-side up in the <i>banneton</i> or linen-lined bowl, then on bake day, you can unearth the dough and score as desired with a blade.</div>
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Pop in the fridge and ferment. Mine fermented for 19 hours.</div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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Preheat the oven to 500 degrees with a dutch oven and baking stone inside.</div>
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Pull the dough of of the fridge. Pop a piece of parchment over the mouth of the bowl, then place a peel over this. Quickly invert the bowl so that the dough ends up sitting on the paper and the peel, seam-side up for the Forkish fold method, seam-side down if you plan to slash.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">The 'Forkish fold', dough lands seam-side up</span></i></div>
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If you plan to slash, then do so in some divine manner first before getting the dough into the oven. For the Forkish fold, just slide the dough immediately into the shallow half of the hot dutchie. With both methods, after the dough has been slid into the pan, cover with the fat half of the dutchie, slide the contraption into the oven, and steam for 15 minutes at this temp, then turn the oven down to 475 and steam for another 15 minutes.</div>
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After the steam, remove the fat end of the dutchie, then stack the pan over its mouth to create a buffer between the hot stone and the bread. This will help keep the bottom of your bread from blackening.</div>
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Toggle the oven between 460 and 475 until the <i>boule</i> is baked to chestnut brown. Cool on a wire rack for at least an hour before slicing.<br />
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This post has been shared on Susan's <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">Wild Yeast Blog.</a><br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-87437663816328411432014-09-05T22:56:00.001-07:002016-12-03T23:02:44.433-08:00Focaccia: A Continuation<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well, one new dough, two new ideas. But I'll get to that in a minute.<br />
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So, I have never been one of those people who nurture themselves when sick. I do the opposite of what I'm supposed to do. Instead of resting, I run around like crazy and do as much stuff as possible. It's like I'm thumbing my nose at being sick. And who has ever heard of getting sick in the middle of summer during a heatwave?<br />
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It all began Friday. The start of my weekend, right. I was grinding rye berries for my starter, and I spilled the bag. Of course the little silver berries scattered behind and beneath every conceivable piece of furniture (I have to grind my flour in my atelier because the walls are so thin in my apartment that the neighbors next door bang about if I grind in my kitchen, which shares a wall with their bedroom), so I began collecting the berries, moving furniture, sweeping under here and there, aghast at how much dust was taking up residence. Of course that prompted me to <i>really</i> start moving things about, getting nitty gritty about taking up all that dust. I started thinking about all of the cabinets and closets and clutter that needed to be dealt with too. May as well, I'm already married to this cleaning frenzy, and it's my birthday in 12 days, so I want my life to be spotless before I enter my new year. Well, all that led to so much deep cleaning that I filled a quarter of a dumpster, hauled a bunch of crap out to the curb, gave stuff away to a friend. All because of that damned bag of rye berries gone mad. Of course, all the while I am feeling ill, right, and the dust is not making things better. During this (three-day) stint of madness, having autoclaved every piece of furniture, scrubbed every cabinet raw. I also start a round of bread. Not one, but two different kinds. Right after the farmer's market, of course.<br />
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As you can see I'm still on this <i>focaccia</i> kick. I think it's because the onion <i>focaccia</i> from the last post was so pretty that my wheels have been spinning ever since. I also wanted to perfect the final fermentation time for our <i>focaccia</i> (10 hours). The onion <i>focaccia</i> eased the fennel image into my brain, and since I wanted a thinner loaf this time around, I decided to snip off a bit of the dough giving me another opportunity to fancy things up. Eggplant. Of course! It would fit perfectly into this little slip of dough, and they're so gorgeous when you roast them, I figured slices of the purple beauties would be fantastic on today's <i>focaccia</i>.<br />
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This time around I made parchment collars for them so they popped out of the pans beautifully. The flavor was fantastic. Totally mild with no acidity at all, which is what I aimed for. Good open and chewy crumb, crisp exterior. The whole thing rich with olive oil. Mm.<br />
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With all that said, on top of all of my cleaning, my minor illness, my marketing, my bread making and now this post, I am zonked and have to hit the sack to begin a new work week.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">FENNEL & EGGPLANT FOCACCIA</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT5MpZDkZhlAID2V9JxZ0aclx6VwLyZM0vjDF4d-lbkIDCv51kTd45uVCoDDaS9PW-FeRvblW0tKCgjCufOmPsupVp67kZJ9ic1PZ9NH6RC5F57Bz5eDUtZcT4grgLGfpj_bYDPueVSQ/s1600/d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT5MpZDkZhlAID2V9JxZ0aclx6VwLyZM0vjDF4d-lbkIDCv51kTd45uVCoDDaS9PW-FeRvblW0tKCgjCufOmPsupVp67kZJ9ic1PZ9NH6RC5F57Bz5eDUtZcT4grgLGfpj_bYDPueVSQ/s1600/d.jpg" /></a></div>
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LEVAIN DAY</div>
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three or four times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levai</i><i>n</i> by mixing up the following:</div>
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10g 100% hydration starter of your choice</div>
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75g h2o</div>
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75g freshly ground hard white wheat flour</div>
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Mix up the above. Ferment. Mine fermented for 8.5 hours.</div>
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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50g freshly milled white wheat flour</div>
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50g freshly milled durum, milled to <i>semolina</i></div>
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400g Giusto's Artisan flour</div>
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380g h2o</div>
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20g good olive oil, I used California Olive Ranch</div>
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12g salt</div>
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flour and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1 hour 45 minutes<br />
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After the autolyse, squish the salt and olive oil into the dough. Now it's time for your 3 hour, 15 minute bulk fermentation.</div>
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You will not perform turns through the entire bulk, instead, you will intuitively know when it is time to stop by the rate of the dough's expansion. I stopped my turns at 2 hours then popped the dough in the fridge for the remaining half our of bulk because it was really warm in L.A.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have smeared with good olive oil, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for about 10 minutes. If you are going to make a baby <i>focaccia</i> whack off about a quarter of the dough, gather and rest the same as the larger dough.<br />
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Meanwhile, with a very small amount of olive oil, oil the sides and bottom of a cake pan with a removable bottom (9" wide, measured on the inside x 3" deep); fit with a circle of parchment along the bottom and a ring around the sides. The olive oil will hold it in place. Now, once you've got it installed, oil the face of the parchment as well.<br />
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If you are going to make a baby <i>focaccia</i> to experiment with different toppings, prepare a smaller pan in the same way.</div>
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Pop the dough into the pan, gently spreading out to the sides of it. Drizzle a small amount of oil over the top and smear it a bit. Cover with a plate and refrigerate for 10 hours. This seems to be the magic number for <i>focaccia</i>, resulting in a non-acidic final bread.<br />
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BAKE DAY</div>
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1 fennel bulb in good shape<br />
1 or two baby eggplants</div>
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A few pinches of good salt, for instance <i>fleur de sel</i></div>
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About 2 teaspoons of your really fine olive oil</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 550 degrees, installed with a baking stone and a pot filled with lava rocks (this should be place on the floor of the oven). Remove the dough from the fridge now too.</div>
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Now, neatly slice your fennel and eggplants so that you arrive at 1/4" thick cross sections that include some of the green top. Arrange over the top of the dough in some comely fashion, pressing the vegetables down into the dough gingerly, you don't want to deflate it, but if you don't sort of embed them, they will float right off of the dough during oven spring.</div>
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Leave the dough rest at room temp during this hour of oven preheat to regain its shape.</div>
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When you are ready to bake, add some ice cubes to a 3 cup measure and fill with with water. Set aside.</div>
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Sprinkle the face of the dough with the <i>fleur de sel</i> and drizzle with the olive oil, spreading it a bit so that the surface takes on a golden sheen. Slide the <i>focaccia</i> onto the stone, then pull out the pot of lava rocks a bit and pour the ice water over the rocks. Quickly slide the pot back into the oven and steam for 10 minutes at 500 degrees.</div>
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After 10 minutes, turn the oven down to 460 degrees and steam for 10 minutes more for a total of 20 minutes steam. After the steam, remove the lava pot from the oven and bake out at around 450 till the loaf has properly browned, spinning it now and again for even heating. Keep the heat low on this one, because it it inclined to burn.<br />
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Cool the loaf for about 15 minutes on a wire rack before turning it out of the pan and cooling for a further hour. You should not have an issue with sticking due to the savvy use of parchment. To serve, scatter with fresh green fennel frond and share with a friend.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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<a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">This loaf was shared with Susan at Yeast Spotting, of course!</a></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-89931446659650353002014-08-18T18:09:00.000-07:002014-08-18T18:44:01.699-07:00Focaccia Pericoloso<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So, I have been tinkering with <i>focaccia</i> formulae forever, and what I have come to is this: they taste better (and the texture is better) when made with predominately white flour. I will tell you, I have made quite a few with varying amounts of whole grain as well as types, and sundry methods/fermentation times. Those with larger amounts of whole grain always arrive tough or chewy and compressed. It's a good thing I have no aversion to white flour, indeed sometimes nothing but a white flour loaf will satisfy. In this case, it really makes a glorious bread.<br />
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I also employed a little <i>semolina</i> and durum <i>rimacinato</i> because I like the sweetness/nuttiness and tenderness that it contributes to our breads. Plus, durum is just that grain that you think of as Italian, so, why not use it in <i>focaccia</i>.<br />
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I futzed around with fermentation times this past week, and arrived at the following: 18 hours is too long. It makes for a more acidic <i>focaccia</i>, 8 hours didn't develop the flavor as much as I wanted it to, and 12 hours seemed to be just right. 10 might work as well, in terms of reduced acid and flavor development, so you might try that. What you see here is a 12 hour ferment.<br />
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I also tried experimenting with a free form thing, a cast iron loaf, and ended up happiest using a standard 9-inch cake pan. A little smaller in circumference than my cast, but the sides are higher which is necessary. With this amount of dough, you really need the extra height to contain it. It might work in a cast if you cut off about 25% (perhaps toss this extra bit in a smaller pan or bake it free-form). I may have to give this a try. But it indeed developed a fabulously crisp crust, which I was afraid I would have to sacrifice using a cake pan. I'm sure the efforts of the olive oil contributed to the development of such a rich and crisp crust here. One word of caution: line the sides of the pan with a ring of parchment. I did not (thankfully I lined the bottom with it) and it ended up sticking. I was able to successfully loosen it with a thin blade run along the inside of it, but it took some doing. Next time, I will definitely reach for the paper.<br />
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Given that the virtues of white flour are relied upon in this <i>focaccia</i>, I used none other than Giusto's Artisan flour. I've tried several of Giusto's styles of flour and this is my absolute favorite (their 00 is nonpareil for pizza dough and pasta). You can only buy it online from their website, and if you do go about this, purchase a case. Trust me. It makes for the best artisan bread, ever. Super crisp crust with excellent caramelization (think: blisters), and a good gelatinous crumb with a fantastic creamy flavor. I still remember the first loaf I made with the stuff.<br />
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The use of the whole onion as an enhancement was borrowed from a pin I saw on pinterest. The photo was of a farmer's market stall in Sweden. A table was piled high with a sundry of breads, and a group of lovely whole-onion focaccia caught my eye. Blurred and in the corner of the photo though they were, elbowed by the hundred other loaves surrounding them, they were dazzling. The hand-scrawled chalkboard tablet in front of a queue of the loaves announcing the variety was written in Swedish, so I decided to borrow the essence and make up the rest.<br />
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On a final note, you will try your hand (no pun intended; read on...) at our latest steam contraption with this bread, that is to say a pile of lava rocks in a pan growing almost molten on the oven floor with a goodly amount of ice water heaved onto them once the dough has been loaded. An admonishing word: arm yourself with a long nose lighter. If your oven is as shabby as mine, the initial blast of steam will likely blow out the pilot light, and since mine is in the back of the broiler, well, you can imagine how daunting it is to shove your hand into some narrow 550 degree nether region to relight the thing. Heart. Goes. Pounding.</div>
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Without further ado, I give you the <i>focaccia</i> that damn near claimed my hand.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">Focaccia Pericoloso</span></div>
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LEVAIN DAY<br />
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three or four times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levai</i><i>n</i> by mixing up the following:</div>
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10g 100% hydration starter of your choice<br />
75g h2o<br />
75g freshly ground hard red wheat flour (you can also use 75g <i>rimacinato</i> - double milled - durum wheat flour, which I used in another experimental <i>focaccia</i> and it came out beautifully. In that case, use about 82g of water when you mix up your <i>levain</i>. For this loaf's <i>levain</i>, I used whole wheat flour)<br />
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Mix up the above. Ferment. Mine fermented for 8.5 hours.<br />
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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50g freshly milled durum, milled to <i>rimacinto</i></div>
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50g freshly milled durum, milled to <i>semolina</i></div>
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400g Giusto's Artisan flour</div>
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380g h2o</div>
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20g good olive oil, I used California Olive Ranch</div>
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12g salt</div>
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1 good-sized sprig of fresh rosemary</div>
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1 spring onion</div>
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flour and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1.5 hours (an hour will suffice, the only reason I autolysed for this long is because my morning errands took longer than I thought they would, and I post all my formulae with absolutely no embellishments or tailoring).</div>
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After the autolyse, chop your rosemary leaves, medium-fine should suffice. Squish the salt, olive oil and rosemary into the dough until thoroughly amalgamated.</div>
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Now time for your 4-hour bulk fermentation.</div>
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Just before your first series of turns, thinly slice one of the onions, mine was about 50g (reserve the other whole onion for use tomorrow on bake day). At the first turn, sprinkle the onions over the dough and turn as you normally would. With each succession, they will distribute throughout the dough.</div>
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You will not perform turns through the entire 4-hour bulk, instead, you will intuitively know when it is time to stop by the rate of the dough's expansion. I stopped my turns at 3 hours, left it be at room temp for another half hour, then popped the dough in the fridge for the remaining half our of bulk because it was really warm in L.A.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have smeared with good olive oil, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for about 10 or 15 minutes. Meanwhile, with a very small amount of olive oil, oil the sides and bottom of a cake pan with a removable bottom (9" wide, measured on the inside x 3" deep); fit with a circle of parchment along the bottom and a ring of the stuff around the sides. The olive oil will hold it in place. Now, once you've got it installed, oil the face of the parchment as well.</div>
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Pop the dough into the pan, gently spreading out to the sides of it. Drizzle a small amount of oil over the top and smear it a bit. Cover with a plate and refrigerate for 10 - 12 hours, mine went for 12.</div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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1 spring onion in good shape</div>
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A few pinches of good salt, for instance <i>fleur de sel</i></div>
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About 2 teaspoons of your really fine olive oil</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 550 degrees, installed with a baking stone and a pot filled with lava rocks (this should be place on the floor of the oven). Remove the dough from the fridge now too.</div>
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Now, neatly slice up your remaining onion so that you arrive at 1/4" thick cross sections that include some of the green top. Arrange over the top of the dough in some comely fashion, pressing them down into the dough gingerly, you don't want to deflate it, but if you don't sort of embed them, they will float right off of the dough during oven spring. Keep the dough even, meaning, don't press down really hard over the bulb of the onion and leave the other half unpatted or your <i>focaccia</i> will bake up flat at the bottom bulb half, and remain lofty at the top. I scatted some slivered onion over the rest of the dough as well, patting them into the dough gently.</div>
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Leave the dough rest at room temp during this hour of oven preheat to regain its shape.</div>
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When you are ready to bake, fill up a 4 cup measure with a full tray of ice cubes and top with water. Set aside.</div>
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Sprinkle the face of the dough with the <i>fleur de sel</i> and drizzle with the olive oil, spreading it a bit so that the surface takes on a golden sheen. Slide the <i>focaccia</i> onto the stone, then pull out the pot of lava rocks a bit and pour the ice water over the rocks. Quickly slide the pot back into the oven and steam for 10 minutes at 500 degrees.</div>
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NOTE: Here is where you want to check your pilot light, and pray, figure out how to light it <i>before</i> employing this steam method. You have to light it quickly if it goes out on you, no time to be surfing the net looking for you particular oven's instructions, all the while, your dying loaf...</div>
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Carrying on.</div>
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After 10 minutes, turn the oven down to 475 degrees and steam for 10 minutes more for a total of 20 minutes steam. After the steam, remove the lava pot from the oven and bake out till the loaf has properly browned, spinning it now and again for even heating. Mine took a total of 55 minutes, but rely on your thermometer, taking it to 210 degrees. You may need to lower the head to 450 for the last 10 minutes of cooking so that it does not burn.</div>
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(I never bake without my trusty <a href="http://www.thermoworks.com/products/thermapen/">Thermopen</a>, 5 degrees really can make a difference between perfectly baked and a bit underbaked, and unpleasantly so. Speaking of, better to air on the side of greater than 210 degrees than less).</div>
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Cool the loaf for about 15 minutes on a wire rack before turning it out of the pan and cooling for a further hour. You should not have an issue with sticking, but if you did not line the sides of the pan and the <i>focaccia</i> refuses to release, run a thin blade along the sides of the loaf then carefully push the removable bottom upwards to release it (using oven mits, of course). I pray to goodness that you in the very least parchmented the bottom of the pan.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG94H40o0ORJjmG08YOv2-_AmnGypM-CxpBEYGYgiHSsQwEDuz9oQw5_Ai93O1jKg1lOMfVENjCVN4BVbeMoOtlTxIa2rAfgba-V2JzG2rPhP-nz2UvfDwOyrvIU6UqY1Iofy7OkDgkek/s1600/IMG_6422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG94H40o0ORJjmG08YOv2-_AmnGypM-CxpBEYGYgiHSsQwEDuz9oQw5_Ai93O1jKg1lOMfVENjCVN4BVbeMoOtlTxIa2rAfgba-V2JzG2rPhP-nz2UvfDwOyrvIU6UqY1Iofy7OkDgkek/s1600/IMG_6422.JPG" /></a></div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
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<a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">This loaf was shared with Susan at Yeast Spotting, of course!</a></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-3889519336324546822014-08-03T13:19:00.002-07:002018-03-16T15:59:25.418-07:00Wild Rice & Bay Fendu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
OK. When I say '<i>fendu</i>', I use this word gratuitously. As you all know, I suck at shaping anything other than a <i>boule</i>. <i>Batards</i>, <i>baguettes</i>, forget about it. I am fairly unambitious with bread shaping, so I never get better at it. Which is fine by me. But every now and again I fancy that I'm an actual baker, and then I am humbled when I try to do something outside of a neat little ball.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic9gzRJAGhW9zrxOCNpYCaJz8bcnOttyvhWLZY_wpF5Qzilj5MwzNvZyCtHFeG3dFN_lB4g7IDWGgPyD44OR_EYIunNe2SIM8Cm58Gx9ao2aC1bOg5MnQthzhAHKrgs1oI28JU-3jItOM/s1600/IMG_6300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic9gzRJAGhW9zrxOCNpYCaJz8bcnOttyvhWLZY_wpF5Qzilj5MwzNvZyCtHFeG3dFN_lB4g7IDWGgPyD44OR_EYIunNe2SIM8Cm58Gx9ao2aC1bOg5MnQthzhAHKrgs1oI28JU-3jItOM/s1600/IMG_6300.JPG" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><i>Wild Rice & Bay </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><i>Fendu</i></span></div>
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So, this week's bake brings two new things to the blog. I had this fantastic idea for a wild rice loaf flavored with fresh bay because I have a beautiful laurel bay plant in my kitchen, and wild rice just sounds lovely. At first I thought I might just cook some of this black grass up and add it to the dough, but then I got the wild idea to mill some of it up into flour to further enhance the loaf.<br />
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When thinking about the bay, I knew I didn't want to stash any inside the actual loaf (i.e., if I decided to go with a <i>boule</i>), because slicing into it would result in woody bits in the mouth. No Good. This brought me to the grand idea of <i>fendu</i>. In my crazy imaginings, I would shape it perfectly, encasing a few of the aromatic leaves within the split. It would proof up smashingly, hugging the leaves through the bake, whereafter I would pluck them out and wind up with an exotically-flavored bread.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKV9XtILerItyy5UWozIuTj9CaJA8rgsKM15p4Q1WbGvHQwoZBGV8jq8bOIsZspW0Oda0osQZEdJRcXkrEsGagilax8W9fZ89F3p0EzP8J44iuPkEGIzow8OrT60L653QAKIQ677TtPQ/s1600/IMG_6312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKV9XtILerItyy5UWozIuTj9CaJA8rgsKM15p4Q1WbGvHQwoZBGV8jq8bOIsZspW0Oda0osQZEdJRcXkrEsGagilax8W9fZ89F3p0EzP8J44iuPkEGIzow8OrT60L653QAKIQ677TtPQ/s1600/IMG_6312.JPG" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><i>(admittedly a little phallic...)</i></span></div>
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Well, most of this was true, only my <i>fendu</i> opened up during the bake. After the steam I was a little dismayed, but when all was said and done, despite my lack of shaping prowess, I was tickled pink with the resulting loaf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrzko3yemw2fApbXP-GE29oAsXIk-V9g0ELDphD73HXNqEnT1MAgRQck6FuOJKHWifD16fGfHo7cNW86voVkt1uOFndzN0JLuJRCONPqy-ihGY_Kd1z6f0qG2w_Bga_uZzDi37h9gDxI/s1600/IMG_6260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrzko3yemw2fApbXP-GE29oAsXIk-V9g0ELDphD73HXNqEnT1MAgRQck6FuOJKHWifD16fGfHo7cNW86voVkt1uOFndzN0JLuJRCONPqy-ihGY_Kd1z6f0qG2w_Bga_uZzDi37h9gDxI/s1600/IMG_6260.jpg" /></a></div>
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The cool part of the experiment is that I got to work with another method of steam. Our combo cooker has been our crutch for so long, and I have tried every method of getting steam into my oven with very poor results. All of my non-<i>boule</i> breads end up spreading with the lack of steam, and the resulting loaves are always flat. This time I used lava rocks that I doused with ice water when the dough was loaded into the oven, and the bread achieved marvelous oven spring (happy face). This may be the start of a new love affair with alternative shapes, now that I know what glorious steam the lava rocks create in the oven.<br />
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So, let me describe the bread: in a word, heavenly. But beyond that, the crust was super shattery, and such a wonderful ratio of crust to crumb. I was worried that the rice bits would be super tough on the outside of the loaf, but nothing could be further from the truth. While working with whole grains in my breads, I do try to encase as much of the grains within the dough when I turn and shape because they can bake out a little tough. Here, the bits that remained on the outside of this loaf added a pleasant crunch to the already crisp cortex.<br />
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The crumb was superbly tender and open, and the flavor, wow. A sweet earthy quality from the wild rice, and the bay permeates the loaf delicately, lending a lovely resinous and spicy perfume.<br />
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For this bread I milled up some white whole wheat (Bob's Red Mill hard white wheat berries) along with the wild rice. I also used Giusto's Ultimate Performer and Golden Haven. I added just a pinch more salt that I normally do to compensate for the addition of the wild rice. I never knew I could bake up such a glorious thing!<br />
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Without further babble, here is the method for our wild rice & bay <i>fendu</i> in all its glory.<br />
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LEVAIN NIGHT<br />
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levain</i>:</div>
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12g 100% hydration dark rye starter</div>
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75g freshly milled white whole wheat flour, I used Bob's Red Mill hard white wheat berries. </div>
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75g h2o</div>
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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350g h2o (you will underhydrate here and the dough will feel a little on the dry side, but the wild rice adds water to the dough, so resist the temptation to add more water at this point)</div>
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317g Giusto's Ultimate Performer</div>
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83g Giusto's Golden Haven flour</div>
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75g freshly milled white winter wheat flour, I used Bob's Red Mill hard white wheat berries</div>
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25g freshly milled wild rice</div>
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175g cooked wild rice</div>
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13g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Wild Rice Flour</span></i></div>
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flours and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for one hour. During this hour, make your wild rice. 4 parts water to 1 part wild rice. To arrive at what you need here, you will need 2 cups of water and 1/2 cup wild rice. Cook till tender, about 45 minutes, drain and rinse with cold water using a fine-mesh strainer. Set aside.</div>
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After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated then fold in the wild rice.</div>
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Now begin your 4-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns for the first two hours of bulk. Leave it be for the final hour. My bulk was done at room temp for the most part, even though it was in the 80s here in L.A, but I did refrigerate it for the last 45 minutes because it began to expand rapidly at this point.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose torpedo shape and let it rest for 10 minutes.</div>
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After it has rested, shape it into a neat <i>batard</i>. Now, flip the dough seam-side down, and using a dowel or a thin rod of some sort. All I had was a French rolling pin. Likely part of the problem. Make a wide moat in the dough by rolling the dowel back and forth, trying to maintain equality on both sides of the moat. As you can see, I was not as fastidious as I should have been and ended up with one more shallow side. When you have accomplished this, roll either side of the dough back toward the center firmly, then slip in a few bay leaves. This is where I started to have trouble. My seam would not stay closed, and the sides of my dough kept rolling open relentlessly. So I ended up pinching the ends of the torpedo before placing into the <i>banneton</i>. This is going to take more practice.</div>
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If you want to learn how to properly shape a <i>fendu</i>, <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/2007/08/15/fendu/">see Susan's post here.</a> If you want to learn how to shape <i>any</i> loaf, defer to Susan. She is the mistress of shaping bread.</div>
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Place the dough <i>seam side down</i>, being careful not to dislodge the leaves, so that when you flip it on bake day, it will land seam/leaf side up. Moving along... pop it into a <i>banneton</i>, which, incidentally, I don't have. I used my Staub 4.5 quart oval roaster lined with a thick piece of canvas, and inserted rolled up pieces of this canvas into the sides of the pot so that the dough would not expand too widely.</div>
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Cover and get it into the fridge and ferment. Mine fermented for 18 hours 45 minutes.</div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and cast iron pot loaded with lava rocks which you have placed on the oven floor.</div>
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen (if you have over dusted, now is the time to brush away any loose flour. I know, I have been the victim of some snowy loaves too).</div>
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Fill up a 4 cup measure with 3 cups of water and a full tray of ice cubes. Set aside.</div>
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Slide the dough onto the stone, then pull out the pot of lava rocks a bit and pour the ice water over the rocks. Quickly slide the pot back into the oven and steam for 15 minutes at 500 degrees. After 15 minutes, turn the oven down to 475 degrees and steam for 15 minutes more. After the steam, remove the lava pot from the oven and bake out till the loaf is chestnut brown, spinning it now and again for even heating. You may need to lower the oven to 450 for the last 10 minutes of cooking so that it does not burn. You want that crack down the center to bake out thoroughly. Mine took about 55 minutes to bake, I believe.</div>
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Cool the loaf for a full hour, and remove the leaves before slicing.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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<i><br /></i><i>(This post was sent to <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">Susan's Wild Yeast Blog)</a></i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-54733024634140133072014-07-20T22:14:00.001-07:002014-07-22T11:12:04.007-07:00Pane Siciliano (and A New Michette)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This all began with a new <i>Michette</i>. Wait. So, what exactly is the definition of my <i>Michette</i>? It's a <i>boule</i> made with home-milled whole grain and hand-bolted flour, or 100% bolted flour. It generally makes for a flattish loaf with a tighter, more even crumb. Like a mini <i>Miche</i>, hence the name. OK, so, I was busy bolting away some Iraqi Durum, right, coming up with a new bread for us all. And you know how durum is, right, super hard with spiky little molecules that rip at the gluten structure. Yes, there is plenty of protein in this hard grain, but the quality of it is not conducive to achieving much oven spring. Hence my idea of bolting part of the flour to soften those angry little particles. Let me tell you, the resulting <i>Michette</i> was lovely.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Michette, in Iraqi Durum</span></i></div>
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Of course, I couldn't stop there. I wondered if I could make a durum loaf using 100% hand-milled whole grain. A challenge, right, because of the nature of durum. So how do the Italians do it then? How do they make lovely loaves with 100% durum? Just to revive our understanding of durum, we all know that durum is a very hard wheat, yeah? I think the hardest. We know that, as aforementioned, the milled grain produces barbed molecules that slice away at our gluten structure, what little it has anyway, since the protein, while pretty high in percentage, is weak. We also know that <i>semolina</i> flour is made from durum, but <i>semolina</i> refers to the flour's coarse grind, not the grain itself. What I never knew, but that which I learned through this experiment, is that in Italy when bakers make durum loaves, they use a specific grind of durum called <i>rimacinato</i>, which translates as 'regrind'. So, when you buy a bag of <i>semola di grano duro rimacinato</i>, you are conceivably buying durum wheat that has been ground twice to break down those harsh little molecules a little further, smooth out their spiny little edges. This is the flour that bread makers in Italy use. Hm, sounds dubious, sounds like there is something else going on here. More on this in a second. Anyway, I decided to take up the idea of remilling my <i>semolina</i>, transforming it into this lovely sounding flour.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Pane Siciliano</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">There was not much information on the net about 100% durum loaves, and all of the breads I ran across either involved the addition of strong flour or employed this commercially made <i>rimacinato</i> which creates a loaf of bread with fantastic oven spring. Because of such, I would venture to guess that some other technique is involved in the processing of this flour because you are not going to get crazy oven spring if you are making <i>rimacinato</i> at home. While the breads I saw using this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Caputo-Semola-Grano-Rimaninata-Semolina/dp/B008ZGMP2M">commercial <i>rimacinato</i></a> were beautiful, I wanted rustic loaves, truly hand-made loaves that would reflect the sort of country breads you might find on a Sicilian table. Judging by the breads produced by the commercial flour, I suspect that while it is 100% durum wheat, it is likely not </span><span class="Apple-style-span">whole</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"> durum wheat, but rather white flour, just like any ordinary bread flour, but made from durum berries. It's okay if it is. Just not what I was after here. </span></i><br />
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I made several loaves of bread for this experiment, double testing the formulae that you see here, playing with hydration. I think altogether I made seven loaves to get them just right. First up is our <i>Michette, in durum.</i> A definitive keeper. It made a really gorgeous loaf, chewy crumb, fantastic nutty, sweet flavor. It was lovely plain, toasted, drizzled with olive oil, slathered with pesto and suffocated with slices of first of the season heirloom tomatoes and <i>fleur di sel</i>. Then I baked up three loaves of my newest invention, which I am calling my <i>Pane</i> <i>Siciliano.</i> I hand-ground some <i>rimacinato</i>, employing a double grind technique, right. First grind on sort of a standard setting on the Komo. This produced what would be regarded as <i>semolina.</i> I then sent it through the mill again on a finer grind, thus, our <i>rimacinato</i> is born. And all three loaves were an experiment with hydration as well, so I could get it right for the post.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Pane Siciliano (double grind)</span></i></div>
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Finally, and here's something, I baked up another three loaves of my <i>Pane</i> <i>Siciliano</i>, again making my hand-ground <i>rimacinato</i>, but this time I experimented with a triple grind to see what sort of crumb it would yield, perhaps it would contribute to a higher loft (though for this loaf, as with my <i>Michette</i>, I am partial to a flattish loaf with a tighter, more even crumb). I employed the double ground technique as above, then cooled it a bit before sending it through the mill a third time on a finer setting. What resulted was a very, very fine flour. Almost imperceptible to the touch.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Pane Siciliano (triple grind)</span></i></div>
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The resulting breads were fantastic. As we are all surely aware, the danger of durum breads can be a really tough cortex, especially with protracted baking times. But all of our experiments here resulted in lovely, tender crusts, and on that note, a decidedly earthy, nutty almost buttery crumb. Sweet and moist, a touch of acid. I will say, I didn't notice much difference in taste or texture between the double and triple milled breads, save for the crust of the double-milled which was only minutely more firm. They were both aesthetically pleasing as well. But to save time and effort, I would probably incline toward the double-mill when making a <i>Pane Siciliano</i> in the future.<br />
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The things you need to know about this bread is that it ferments very quickly, so you may not want to push fermentation times. For your benefit, I played with hydration and fermentation times within these 7 loaves, and the formulae here exhibit the ideal measurements and method. Finally, the loaves also bake really quickly, so, don't crank the oven beyond 450 degrees after the first 15 minutes of steam or you will likely pull them out prematurely. This is a very wet dough, so it needs the full hour to bake. <a href="http://thermoworks.com/#5">Use your thermometer for this one</a> guys or you may end up with an underbaked crumb.<br />
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This afternoon I had several slices with pesto and tomato, olive oil, and nipped at it plain every time I walked into the kitchen. Just a lovely rustic loaf to add to our repertoire. Please let me know how your <i>Pane Siciliano</i> works out for you. These are the perfect breads to compliment your next Italian feast, or frankly to bake up weekly. If this bread is one of peasant ancestry, it is the king of its kind.<br />
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Here is the method for both our kingly <i>Pane</i> <i>Siciliano</i> and our new <i>Michette</i>.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><i>PANE SICILIANO</i></span></div>
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LEVAIN DAY</div>
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levain</i>:</div>
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-10g 100% hydration starter<br />
-75g <i>rimacinato</i> (double milled) durum wheat flour (I used Iraqi Durum for all of our experiments, but you can use a non-heritage varietal if you can't find Iraqi)</div>
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-82g h2o</div>
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Mix up the above. You will arrive at a very firm paste. It's okay, it will loosen as it ferments. Mine fermented for 6 hours.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Levain, Just Mixed</span></i></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Fermented</span></i></div>
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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-All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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-530g h2o (no, this is not a typo. This is a very thirsty flour, which you will discover)</div>
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-500g freshly milled durum that has been milled once on a semi-fine setting, cooled a bit, then sent through the mill a second time on a fine setting (you will have to stir the flour in the hopper to push it through the stones). If you want to experiment with triple milled durum, cool the <i>rimacinato</i>, then send it through the mill a third time (again, you will have to stir the flour in the hopper to push it through the stones)</div>
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-12g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flour and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 45 minutes.</div>
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After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated. Now begin your 3-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns for the first two hours of bulk. Leave it be for the final hour.<br />
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* This dough will not gain obvious gluten formation. It will feel grainy as you do your turns, with only slight gluten formation. It does not have elasticity which we are familiar with when working with hard winter wheat flours either, so, it will indeed 'break' when you pull it up and stretch it during the folds. All is fine. It will ferment nicely despite this. Indeed, as you can see, this flour ferments very, very quickly. If you will notice both the reduced autolyse and bulk fermentation times. The final fermentation is also reduced considerably. My advice is not to push it. I have conducted this experiment with longer fermentations, higher hydration, and lower hydration and what you see here is the optimal method, measurements and fermentation times. The only change you might make is to refrigerate the dough after the first hour of bulk if it is very warm (above 80 degrees) where you are, and complete the bulk fermentation cold. Still, avoid pushing the fermentation time as this dough quickly overferments.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for 5 minutes.</div>
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After it has rested, shape it using the 'Forkish fold' method, which is best for this dough. As you will quickly find, the dough will seem to disintegrate in your hands. You will not be able to shape it uber-tightly. Do the best you can. Just fold the sides up over the dough toward the center of the mass, spinning the dough until all of the edges are folded over to the center to create as tight a <i>boule</i> as possible. It will seem like this is never going to work. It will feel grainy to the touch. It's fine. Just forge on. The Forkish fold also affords another advantage. You cannot and should not attempt to score this dough. It won't work. It is very much like a high-percentage rye bread where the method is to let it fissure and open up at its natural cracks. You will place the dough <i>seam side down</i>, so that when you flip it on bake day, it will land seam side up, thus allowing the steam to escape and the loaf to organically 'self-score'<i>.</i> Moving along... pop it into a <i>banneton</i> or a bowl lined with a linen that has been dusted with brown rice flour, again, seam side DOWN.</div>
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Cover and get it into the fridge and ferment 8 hours. </div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker.</div>
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen (if you have over dusted, now is the time to brush away any loose flour. I know, I have been the victim of some snowy loaves too).</div>
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Slide it into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 450 and bake for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid, pop it beneath the pan for a little buffer to protect the bottom of your loaf and bake out at 450 degrees.<br />
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This loaf browns up quickly, so, keep the temperature modest for the rest of the bake. You decidedly do not want to go to chestnut brown with durum loaves, or the cortex will become hard as a rock, and you do not want to crank the oven or the interior will not bake properly. This is a really wet dough, and needs the full hour to bake. Be sure to take the temp to at least 210-212 before pulling it out of the oven. The recommended temp here should should keep the loaf more on the golden brown end of the color scheme.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Perfectly Steamed</span></i></div>
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After the steam, remove the lid and bake till you reach the recommended temp, rotating the pan as you go to avoid dark patches.</div>
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Allow to cool for at least two hours before slicing. The interior will be moist beyond belief, the crust will be crisp but tender.<br />
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The formula for the <i>Michette</i> is below this group of pictures:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: x-large;"><i>k</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;"><i>MICHETTE, </i>IN DURUM</span></div>
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LEVAIN DAY</div>
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levain</i>:</div>
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-10g 100% hydration starter</div>
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-75g single milled durum wheat flour (I used Iraqi Durum for all of our experiments, but you can use a non-heritage varietal if you can't find Iraqi)</div>
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-75g h2o</div>
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Mix up the above. You will arrive at a very firm paste. It's okay, it will loosen as it ferments. Mine fermented for 8.5 hours.</div>
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:</div>
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-All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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-480g h2o</div>
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-250g freshly milled durum that has been milled once on a semi-fine setting</div>
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-250g freshly milled durum that has been milled once on a semi-fine setting, then bolted through a sieve using a #50 screen</div>
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-12g kosher salt, I used Diamond</div>
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-A good glug of olive oil, I don't know, 15g perhaps? I used California Olive Ranch extra virgin</div>
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flour and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 45 minutes.</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> Just Before Autolyse</span></i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> <i>Growing</i></span></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Autolyse Accomplished</span></i></div>
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After the autolyse, squish the salt and olive oil into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated. Now begin your 3-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns for the first two hours of bulk. Leave it be for the final hour.</div>
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* This dough will not gain obvious gluten formation. It will feel grainy as you do your turns, with only slight gluten formation. It does not have elasticity which we are familiar with when working with hard winter wheat flours either, so, it will indeed 'break' when you pull it up and stretch it during the folds. All is fine. It will ferment nicely despite this. Indeed, as you can see, this flour ferments very, very quickly. If you will notice both the reduced autolyse and bulk fermentation times. The final fermentation is also reduced considerably. My advice is not to push it. I have conducted this experiment with longer fermentations, higher hydration, and lower hydration and what you see here is the optimal method, measurements and fermentation times. The only change you might make is to refrigerate the dough after the first hour of bulk if it is very warm (above 80 degrees) where you are, and complete the bulk fermentation cold. Still, avoid pushing the fermentation time as this dough quickly overferments.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for 5 minutes.</div>
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After it has rested, shape it using the 'Forkish fold' method, which is best for this dough. As you will quickly find, the dough will seem to disintegrate in your hands. You will not be able to shape it uber-tightly. Do the best you can. Just fold the sides up over the dough toward the center of the mass, spinning the dough until all of the edges are folded over to the center to create as tight a <i>boule</i> as possible. It will seem like this is never going to work. It will feel grainy to the touch. It's fine. Just forge on. The Forkish fold also affords another advantage. You cannot and should not attempt to score this dough. It won't work. It is very much like a high-percentage rye bread where the method is to let it fissure and open up at its natural cracks. You will place the dough <i>seam side down</i>, so that when you flip it on bake day, it will land seam side up, thus allowing the steam to escape and the loaf to organically 'self-score'<i>.</i> Moving along... pop it into a <i>banneton</i> or a bowl lined with a linen that has been dusted with brown rice flour, again, seam side DOWN.</div>
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Cover and get it into the fridge and ferment 8 hours. </div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker.<br />
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen (if you have over dusted, now is the time to brush away any loose flour. I know, I have been the victim of some snowy loaves too).</div>
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Slide it into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 450 and bake for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid, pop it beneath the pan for a little buffer to protect the bottom of your loaf and bake at out 450 degrees.</div>
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This loaf browns up quickly, so, keep the temperature modest for the rest of the bake. You decidedly do not want to go to chestnut brown with durum loaves, or the cortex will become hard as a rock, and you do not want to crank the oven or the interior will not bake properly. This is a really wet dough, and needs the full hour to bake. Be sure to take the temp to at least 210-212 before pulling it out of the oven. The recommended temp here should should keep the loaf more on the golden end of the color scheme.</div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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<i><br /></i><i>(This post was sent to <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">Susan's Wild Yeast Blog)</a></i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-6465301258040095572014-07-13T21:07:00.002-07:002014-07-17T12:39:44.978-07:00Sidebar Sunday: Friends<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
What is a friend? I mean, it's hard to quantify, really. And it's different for everyone, the parameters of friendship. My idea of a friend is someone who confides in me and with whom I can do the same; someone to spend time with for no particular reason at all, indeed, but above all, there is no friend like the one who will take you to the airport.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><i>A Lemon Cake for Molly</i></span></div>
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Molly is a beautiful soul. She is the sweetest girl I have ever met in my life. No. Seriously. She's one of those people whom you say about: not a mean bone in her body. I wish you all could meet her, your lives would be better for it. And frankly, it would take a million cakes to show Molly how wonderful and lovely and special she is (and not just because she takes me to the airport). I love you Molly! (and not just because you take me to the airport).<br />
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Indeed I was on my way to the airport to attend my best friend's wedding in Seattle, I was the bridesmaid/chef/wedding cake baker. The wedding cake was naked and gluten free and served with stone fruits that I macerated in St. Germaine liquor and <i>chantilly</i> cream. The ceremony was very sweet, set in the couple's luxuriously wild back yard and Seattle couldn't have given us more glorious weather. Oscar and I have been friends for 12 years. It has been that many years of nothing but laughter (and food) and love (and food, oh, and wine). I left Oscar and Donn to plan their honeymoon in China. Another friend gained, and hopefully many more years of laughter and celebration.<br />
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As it turns out, this has been a celebratory month. Aside from the wedding and the airport cake for Miss Molly, I have been baking up a storm for two of my closest friends' birthdays. It's what I do, you know, to let the people in my life know that I love them. Sandra's birthday was just last week, and I made her this cake that I make when I have something important to celebrate, like a birthday, or a friend stopping over with a bottle of wine. I also baked her chocolate scones, a couple of loaves of bread and a fabulous spelt focaccia and for days after I received texts about how much she and her family were enjoying it as they powered through it all. Sandra is a supermodel-turned-chef with fiery Spanish blood. She and I instantly connected because of a like-minded candor and because we both have professional cooking careers in common. A warm spirit whom I cannot imagine having in my life, it is with great fortune that I get to call her one of my dearest friends. Indeed, I think I'm the only friend she has who cooks for her. She's definitely the only friend I have who has strutted down the runway.<br />
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Finally there was a blueberry tart for Mika, another lovely woman who I am lucky to have in my life and who has become like a sister to me. Our friendship is one of deep confidence. Mika is the first friend I gained in L.A., and since we met five years ago, I find myself searching for excuses to invite her over for dinner (er, Bastille day? No better thing to celebrate than that!). Oh, the dinners we have had. They start with loads of food and wine and end with tears of laughter. But more than that, Mika and I have spend many more days sitting quietly on her porch admiring her lovely garden and eating of its spoils as the sun goes down. And it never fails when we are together that I look at her and wonder how it is that I came to find such a perfect and wonderful friend. Lucky. Me. Since I've been in L.A., no one has 'been there' for me like Mika has. I don't know how I would have done this infernal city without her.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">.</span><br />
So this month has been less about occasions to celebrate than friendship. These three lovelies have enriched my life in measures that I probably don't deserve. Always here for me. Always loving. Always effortlessly. I am fortunate, and I never take it for granted.<br />
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Oh, before I forget, dear reader, I am finishing up a rather lengthy bread experiment and will be back at the page in a short bit to share it. I just have a few more things to tinker with to make sure the formula is up to snuff. Until then, you can make this cake.<br />
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Have a look.<br />
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Gather together:<br />
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(For the cake)<br />
1 1/2 cups Giusto's Baker's Choice flour<br />
1 cup cane sugar<br />
3 large eggs<br />
1 cup heavy cream<br />
1 stick unsalted butter<br />
2 tsp baking powder<br />
1/4 tsp kosher salt<br />
1 TB pure vanilla extract<br />
Zest of 1 large lemon<br />
A few rasps of nutmeg<br />
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(For the glaze)<br />
3 TB lemon juice<br />
3 TB powdered sugar<br />
Zest of one small lemon<br />
A couple of rasps of nutmeg<br />
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Preheat the ov to 350. Cut a strip of parchment paper and line a standard 9x5" loaf pan with it. The idea is to cut it so that it's only wide enough to cover the bottom and long enough to come up over the top of the pan at the sides about two inches on either side. These will be nifty little handles to lift the cake out of the pan later on. Butter the parchment/sides of the pan. Set aside.<br />
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In a large bowl, sift together the flour, salt and baking powder. Whisk in the zest and the nutmeg. Set aside.<br />
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Using a stand mixer, cream together the butter and sugar. When fluffy, add the eggs, one at a time. Beat thoroughly. Beat in the vanilla. Turn the mixer down to low, add the cream, and beat just until thoroughly incorporated.<br />
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Using a rubber spatula, and broad, sweeping strokes, fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients in two passes, making sure that you don't overmix or the cake will be tough.<br />
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Get the batter into the awaiting pan and smooth out the top. Bake till a skewer shoved into the center of the thing comes out clean. Be sure to flip it round toward the end of the baking so that it browns evenly. Mine took an hour (?).<br />
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When the cake is done, cool in a wire rack for about 15 minutes, then carefully pull the cake out of the pan, using the parchment as handles. Cool for another 30 minutes.<br />
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When the cake is cool, mix together the glaze ingredients: the powdered sugar, lemon juice, zest and nutmeg, whisking out the lumps. Using a pastry brush, brush the mixture all over the cake (including the sides!), making sure to drizzle a bunch in that crack at the top.<br />
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Give to a friend, preferably one who takes you to the airport.<br />
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<i><br /></i>
<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-39716492808316581662014-06-24T15:52:00.002-07:002014-06-26T12:46:05.549-07:00100% Red Fife Walnut Bread : Hand-Milled, Hand-Bolted<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Picking up where we left off with bolting flour vs. commercial high extraction vs. Tartine's 'high-extraction' (50/50 bread flour whole wheat flour mix), I have been working busily with bolting and I've arrived at some things I would like to share with you.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">100% Red Fife</span></i></div>
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Baking is really expensive when you take experimentation and 'lost loaves' into consideration. So, I love that I'm able to tackle some hardcore experiments over here and post the thoroughly tested conclusions so that you can make these breads without wondering if they are going to end up in the trash. My main goal is to make sure that the breads and techniques on this blog will work for you, which is why I post so many pictures and really go into detail about the methods employed for each loaf, since all flours are not created equally. It's nice to see the consistency of the <i>levain</i> and the texture of the dough as it changes from mixup through final fermentation<i>.</i> I'm really visual, so I love it when people share their bread making steps through photographs.<br />
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So, with home-milling, we are getting into more complex territory. The doughs that we are creating are far more volatile and require us to be more attuned than we are accustomed to. For example, freshly-milled grains must be used immediately after milling, or aged, <a href="http://girlmeetsrye.blogspot.com/2014/03/bolted-vs-high-extraction-flour-and-new.html">as I discussed in an earlier post that first introduced the method of bolting and aging your flour</a>. As well, breads made with freshly-milled flour ferments much more quickly than store-bought flour, so, likely your fermentation times will be shortened. When working with a new grain that I've milled, I keep a close eye on the fermentation rate, and use a 3-hour bulk fermentation and 9-hour final fermentation as baseline times. I check in at these points and if the dough is fermenting quickly, I can stop fermentation at either bulk or final, and if it's fermenting more slowly, I can push both of those stages past my baseline fermentation times. This is my first go round with Red Fife, and I was able to push a 4-hour bulk fermentation, noting that while it was not super speedy, it was definitely fermenting faster than an aged/store-bought flour. I knew by the look of it that it was going to need a shorter final ferment, but I dare say, the next time around, I think that I could conceivably push this fermentation time to 12 hours, so you may want to play with that when making this loaf. With home-milling you are the definitive pilot, where store-bought flour allows us to sort of coast on autopilot in some ways.<br />
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Chad's current book does not go into milling techniques, likely because not many people have mills, and to author a bread book, it's probably wise to tap into a wider market. The wider market purchases flour, hence the 50/50 mix that he describes as a viable option for high-extraction flour throughout his current book. He offers the option of purchasing high-extraction flour, but does not talk about bolting flour, so perhaps this is not a method that he is fond of. I cannot imagine that it's a very reasonable aim in a large-scale bakery unless you change its entire format. Admittedly, bolting flour is labor-intensive and it is indeed not the least expensive pursuit since the total bolted flour that you ultimately arrive at is a fraction of the starting amount; but if I am milling my own flour, there is nothing more satisfying than eating loaves of bread whose flour has been completely produced by my own hand rather than supplementing it with store-bought flour, regardless the sophistication of commercial high-extraction flour.<br />
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Bolted flour is an incredible thing. It allows us to 'lighten' our loaves while still remaining whole grain. Remember the in-depth post where I talk about the difference between commercial high-extraction and bolted flour. With hand-bolted flour, we cannot truly quantify (at home anyway, maybe if you had a lab...) the percentage of bran, germ and endosperm that is present, but we <i>can</i> deduce that it is pretty high, because whilst working with bolted flour, one must think of it as a whole grain flour when thinking of the outcome of the loaf because this is how it behaves. No wide-open crumbs here, but the flavor and texture and moisture in the resulting loaves made with bolted flour are incomparable.<br />
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The Red Fife I employed for this loaf is from <a href="http://mendocinograin.net/">Mendocino Grain Project</a>, a sustainable and locally-minded granary in Ukiah, California. For my last project, I made <a href="http://girlmeetsrye.blogspot.com/2014/06/sidebar-sunday-red-fife-cream-scones.html">100% Red Fife scones </a>with it and they were fantastic. So much so that I made a couple subsequent batches to share with friends who were thrilled with them.<br />
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I realize that I am catering to the slim margin of folks who might have a mill with these upcoming posts whose breads are all based on the art of bolting flour, but bear with me. Perhaps it will inspire you to invest in a mill yourself if you actually have a place to go that will offer some guidance. I am still learning, just like you, and it is here that I am happy to share my discoveries.<br />
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I like to think of myself as the first into the pool to test the waters. I think they call it being a guinea pig. Something like that. Funny story: my friend Christina came with me to the farmer's market. We were at the lovely Asian produce stand, stuffed with intriguing oddities that neither of us know how to use but would love to learn more about, when she picked up a feathery bundle of greens and wondered aloud how to cook such an exotic thing. I suggested that she purchase it, you know, experiment with it. She did agree, dear reader, but only after she shoved a slender green leaf into my mouth crying 'here, you die first!' Of course I didn't die. And I did buy a bunch with happy results. Guinea pig, me.<br />
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I will say that I have been fortunate with the whole 'lost loaf' situation. I have not had to pitch many breads for lack of success. What did Newton say? 'If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants.' So, Robertson, Hamelman, Peterson, Reinhart, Forkish, and countless authors' articles that I have found on the internet about flour, grains and fermentation, and how to make this whole thing work, have all lain this platform where from to start. I owe a debt of gratitude for all of their effort. I must say, however, that I have found almost zero information about bolting flour on the internet after a significant amount of time searching, and nothing in the books that I own. I did find a slim, archaic passage about hand-bolting whole flour in the days of yore, so, what I am presenting here in these posts is a little trail-blazey and I am all too happy to share it all with you. Free of charge. I was thinking that it would be nice to write a bread book (spawned by numerous requests from readers and friends), this is part of the reason why you have seen a meager few posts in the past two months. I took a little time to think about this, whether this was something that I wanted to pursue. I have been stacking up loaves, you know, researching, experimenting, and holding them back in case I chose to do a book thing. But this week I decided that I prefer doing things this way, you know, <i>gratis</i>. This is my way of giving something back to the world that I often feel gives so little and takes far, far too much, most often for personal gain, and without consideration of others. You only want to make great bread for the dinner table. That makes two of us. My profit is knowing how over-the-moon you feel when you pull a perfect loaf from your oven whose formula you have discovered on this blog. I also love the dialogue I have with the bakers who take time to write, and I think that there is a certain amount of nobility that comes with helping my brethren for the sake of enhancing his life in some small but significant way. Perhaps my experiments will be seen as contributions to the bread world, even if privately. We can all learn from one another, the giants from the dwarves, the dwarves that stand upon their shoulders for a broader view.<br />
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I know that <a href="http://joseybakerbread.wordpress.com/">Josey Baker</a> is doing some extraordinary work with whole grains at his bakery <a href="http://themillsf.com/">The Mill</a>. I got a chance to meet him some months back and to try a few of his loaves. A completely different style of bread than Chad's. Chad's bakery bakes up the style of bread that you will find in the book, obviously, and his loaves employ a large degree of white flour. Not a bad thing. I, for one, am not one of these whole grain zealots who think that white flour is evil. I love the tackiness that comes only from a perfectly fermented loaf of bread employing white flour. Chad's bread is definitely his style of bread, and it's beyond remarkable. I've tried to describe it justly, but the only way to know just how fantastic it is you have to experience it for yourself. Josey's bread is on the opposite side of the spectrum. I believe he told me only one or two of his dozens of breads use a small amount of white flour. They are all whole grain, and he mills it all himself. The resulting loaves are complex, rich and 'serious'. Gorgeous breads. And he is a lovely, lovely man with a quick smile and a playful personality. We talked a bit about milling when I met with him. I had just gotten my Komo, and it was he who inspired me to begin experimenting with breads employing 100% whole grains. I was, admittedly, of the camp that believed it was near impossible to make a great loaf of bread if it didn't employ at least <i>some</i> white flour. After tasting his, I could not have been proven more wrong.<br />
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I don't know if Josey bolts his flour, from the taste of it, I would say no. I think that he is a master of fermentation, and the loaves that he produces are purely his own signature, just like Chad's. Whatever the flour - hand-milled, store-bought, whatever brand - I think that it's important for all of us as bakers to find our own signature style. When making the breads from this blog, you are making what I believe to be the 'ideal' bread on a given day. They don't taste like Chad's, they don't taste like Josey's, and the methods that I employ determine what my bread will ultimately turn out to be. Chad loves a whole wheat/white starter, I'm not a fan. I'm not sure what type Josey employs, but I stand fiercely by my rye starter and I have no interest in changing this. It is the foundation of my breads. It is the foundation of my signature, as are my hydration preferences (Chad's hydration is impossibly high, impressively, impossibly high; my hat's off to anyone who can achieve it), and the fact that I bolt my flour when Chad would probably disagree with this method, preferring to use commercial high-extraction flour and his 50/50 white/whole wheat blend to pair with his whole grain breads, arriving at near-mystical result. But it doesn't matter what anyone's preferences are in our own breads, the only thing that matters is what resonates for us on this path. No right or wrong here folks. Just bread. <i>Our</i> way. When I stand on the shoulders of giants - Josey Baker, Nancy Silverton, and the list is long - what I am looking for is a road all my own. I believe that I have arrived, or at least I like the direction that I am headed, and most of all, I am thrilled that you all are here with me as I continue to plod along.<br />
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My method.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: x-large;">100% RED FIFE WALNUT BREAD : HAND-MILLED, HAND-BOLTED</span></div>
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LEVAIN DAY<br />
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day. On the fourth day, build your <i>levain</i>:</div>
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10g 100% dark rye, 100% hydration starter</div>
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75g h2o</div>
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75g freshly milled Red Fife flour, I used grains from Mendocino Grain Project (MGP)</div>
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Mine fermented for 8 hours 50 minutes<br />
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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You will need:<br />
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
350g h2o (you can try pushing this; try pushing it to 360g perhaps. You have some leeway for play here)<br />
209g freshly milled MGP Red Fife flour<br />
291G freshly milled MGP Red Fife flour that has been bolted through a #50 screen<br />
125g toasted and cooled walnuts<br />
12g kosher salt, I used Diamond<br />
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flour and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 2 hours.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000;"><i>Just mixed</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5BJDkXjG_Egkt2V25Zc23ck2BYXrFKoHc8VnzJ5WraTLJP7SJtGpe5aWD_sKV2qvKcnE4ZkTR7x42JH_VM-tM_5BmPVjeoJAlxv-IUC2i-cXkkUT4aDDNvlX1xuJDGWv6ndseXSG8V-w/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5BJDkXjG_Egkt2V25Zc23ck2BYXrFKoHc8VnzJ5WraTLJP7SJtGpe5aWD_sKV2qvKcnE4ZkTR7x42JH_VM-tM_5BmPVjeoJAlxv-IUC2i-cXkkUT4aDDNvlX1xuJDGWv6ndseXSG8V-w/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">After Autolyse</span></i></div>
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After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated. Now begin your 4-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns until the dough really starts to expand and feel tight. You will fold in the walnuts at the second turn, working to keep it all in within the dough as much as you can. It's fine if a few pieces peek through, but by the end of the bulk, the majority of it should be encased in the dough or the peeking nuts will burn on bake day.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">nuts...</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">encased</span></i></div>
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You will not perform turns through the entire 4-hour bulk, instead, you will intuitively know when it is time to stop by the rate of the dough's expansion, and here you will use a ginger hand, there are lots of nuts to contend with, see. I stopped my turns at 2 hours 15 minutes and popped the dough in the fridge for the remainder of the bulk because it was really warm in L.A.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for about 10 or 15 minutes.<br />
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After it has rested, shape it into a taut <i>boule.</i> This time round I did a 'Forkish fold' rather than using the twist method that I do, where you fold the dough up into a neat little package, and pop it into a <i>banneton</i> or a bowl lined with a linen that has been dusted with brown rice flour, seam side DOWN. This way when you unearth the thing tomorrow, the seam lands upside and this creates some fabulous rustic fissures rather than the neat patterns we get from clean slashes made by razors and scissored nips.<br />
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Get it into the fridge and ferment 9 hours. </div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker.</div>
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen (if you have over dusted, now is the time to brush away any loose flour. I know, I have been the victim of some snowy loaves too).<br />
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Slide it into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 475 and bake for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid and bake till chestnut brown.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">steamed</span></i></div>
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You may have to toggle the oven between 450 and 475. Take the internal temp to 210 degrees.</div>
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Allow to cool for at least an hour, preferably two, before slicing. The interior will be moist beyond belief, the crust will shatter, though it has a teensy bit more muscle to it than those loaves made with at least a bit of white flour, and the flavor will drive you mad.<br />
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<i>To the staff of life!</i><br />
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<i>(This post was sent to <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/">Susan's Wild Yeast Blog)</a></i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7707422469322157202.post-3782033821493393682014-06-21T16:19:00.001-07:002014-07-19T23:05:05.615-07:00Farro & Garlic Scapes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Am I too late? I don't know. L.A. is like a remote bubble, totally cut off from reality (in numerous ways). Like, our growing seasons are long if not indefinable. You can get tomatoes at the farmer's market now, and that's just weird. I am a Bay Area girl to the marrow, and tomatoes are a fruit that definitely belong to St. Martin for his protracted summer feast.<br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">A Boule of Farro & Garlic Scape</span></i></div>
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So, we are having a warmish start to our feverish seasons. Things from the vine are offered earlier than in other parts of the world, and they will likely be at my disposal well into the celebratory season where others are thinking of turkey, shinily wrapped gifts and credit card debt. This season I got far too many garlic scapes that should be alloted one person, and I used them for sundry projects, namely this one that I am sharing with you today.<br />
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Garlic scapes are the long shoots that sprout from the top of new garlic, curling in upon themselves and topped with devilish finials. They are long prized in Chinese cooking, which means that it was inevitable that the western world should discover them, make them posh, expensive, unattainable. What do they taste like? Well. Garlic. Of course. I mean, they don't taste like chicken that's for sure. They are a powerful shoot, bright and fresh and crisp and begging to be tossed into things here and there in effort to elevate them.<br />
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Our garlic scapes were linked here with farro. Because of their vigor, I think they are best paired with a grain that will enhance and confront them all the same. Farro meets their boldness and compliments their intensity with nuttiness and earth and sweet. Divine.<br />
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I milled my own farro flour for these loaves. Unfortunately, I don't know of any company that will supply those of you without mills. ** UPDATE: Theory, our baking friend, has just informed me that you can get farro milled to order from <a href="http://bluebirdgrainfarms.com/">Bluebird Grain Farms</a>!<br />
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Otherwise, you might try spelt flour, which you can get from <a href="http://www.organicsproutedflour.net/sproutedflour.html">To Your Health</a>, and which is one of my absolute favorite flours to employ in my breads. Had I no mill, this is what I would have done.<br />
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Hey, on a final note, I wanted to give a shout out to Franck Haie who wrote me such a beautiful note about the rye starter that is the basis of my whole blog. The breads in Chad's repertoire are based on a whole wheat/white starter. When I discovered rye, I began to really get my 'bread legs', so to speak. Rye and I linked up arm and arm and we have been lovers ever since. It thrills me to hear that so many of you have found a lover in rye as well, so I also want to thank all of the people aside from Franck who have taken the time to write to me about their success with 100% rye starters, and there have been many. Evidently there are scores of people who have not been able to make bread until the discovery of a rye starter. I am honored to have been able to help you along your bread path. This is why I continue to write the blog. If not for your comments and emails, I would probably have stopped it long ago. So long as there are people who are having bread awakenings with their rye starters, then I will always be here posting new experiments so that your bread world is limitless and fulfilling.<br />
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xoxo<br />
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Here's this weeks loaf.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0b5394; font-size: x-large;">FARRO & GARLIC SCAPE BOULE</span></div>
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LEVAIN DAY<br />
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Three days before you plan to make your <i>levain</i>, throw your starter into overdrive by feeding it three times each day. On the third day, build your <i>levain</i>:</div>
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10g 100% dark rye, 100% hydration starter</div>
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75g h2o</div>
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75g freshly milled farro flour</div>
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Mine fermented for about 6.5 hours</div>
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DOUGH DAY</div>
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All of the <i>levain</i></div>
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360g h2o<br />
150g freshly milled farro flour<br />
350g Giusto's Ultimate Performer flour<br />
180g garlic scapes, sliced thinly and sweated till they just begin to go soft and cooled<br />
10g olive oil, I used California Olive Ranch<br />
12g kosher salt, I used Diamond<br />
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When the <i>levain</i> is at its peak, mix it with the flours and h2o until you reach a shaggy mass. Autolyse for 1 hour.</div>
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After the autolyse, squish the salt into the dough so that it is thoroughly incorporated, then fold in the of scapes, working to keep it all in within the dough as much as you can. It's fine if a few pieces peek through, but by the end of the bulk, the majority of it should be encased in the dough or the bits will burn on bake day. Now begin your 4-hour bulk fermentation. Here you will perform a series of turns until the dough really starts to expand and feel tight. You will intuitively know that this is the time to stop your turns. Now let the dough ferment for the remainder of the bulk.</div>
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After the bulk fermentation, scrape the dough onto a worktable that you have dusted with brown rice flour, gather it into a loose round and let it rest for about 10 or 15 minutes.</div>
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After it has rested, shape it into a taut <i>boule</i>, and pop it into a <i>banneton</i> or abowl lined with a linen that has been dusted with brown rice flour. Get it into the fridge and ferment 15 - 18 hours. Mine went for 18 hours.</div>
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BAKE DAY</div>
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One hour before you plan to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, installed with a baking stone and both halves of your combo cooker.</div>
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After the hour preheat, remove the dough bowl from the fridge, place a piece of parchment over the mouth of it, then a pizza peel on top of this, now flip the whole thing over so that the dough ends up on top of the parchment and peel. Remove the linen (if you have over dusted, now is the time to brush away any loose flour. I know, I have been the victim of some snowy loaves too).</div>
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Snip or score the dough, the slide it into the shallow end of the combo cooker. Cover with the fat end and steam the loaf at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. Now turn the oven down to 475 and bake for another 15. After the steam, remove the lid and bake till chestnut brown. You may have to toggle the oven between 450 and 475. Take the internal temp to 210 - 212 degrees.</div>
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Allow to cool for at least an hour, preferably two, before slicing.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0b5394; font-size: x-large;">THE VISUAL JOURNEY</span></div>
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<i>To the staff of life!</i></div>
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Francehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01123188752355883535noreply@blogger.com12